Introduction: Cherry Carpenter's Toolbox Urn
This box is an urn for my grandfather who died this past month at the age of 82. He was a cabinet maker by trade and did the full range of carpentry and woodworking. The only safety warnings that will ever resonate with me came from him, I picture his 9 fingers every time I go to use a saw. This was built from rustic cherry, which was just a really funky grain cherry that had been hanging around for a while. The name plate is acrylic that I frosted with my hand sander and the whole box was finished with tung oil.
> Cherry board
> 1/4" Plywood
> Walnut Wedges
> Paint Scrapper (for glue)
Step 1: Sizing of Material
The whole box is built from this rustic cherry plank. It's a really curly grained piece of cherry that's been hanging around for a while, should make for a good look. I plane it down to 3/4" in the thickness planer.
I cut all the pieces to size by ripping them down to width and cutting them to rough length on the miter saw.
For the tall sides of the boxes the board wasn't wide enough so I glued a couple of pieces together and clamped them and let them dry. Then I scrape off the excess glue and sand them smooth.
At this point I sort all the pieces out to determine what will be the outside show face and mark this to help for when I cut the joints.
I can then cut all of the sides to final size on the miter saw.
Step 2: Cutting Dovetails & Handle
To attach the corners of the box, I'm using dovetails. Since I'm just a mere mortal I pull out my dovetail jig to do this.
Two of the perpendicular sides are mounted in the jig and the joints are cut. The same process is repeated for all 4 corners.
This piece here is going to be the handle spanning across the top of the tool box. I mark out the shape using a tape measure and trace a curve made from this thin PVC sheet.
Step 3: Cutting Handle Joint & Top Groove
The handles are joined with a mortise and tenon joint into the sides so I trace out where these are going to be located so I can cut the mortise.
The bulk of the material is removed with a forstner bit in the drill press.
Then for final shaping a chisel is used.
I need to cut a slot before assembly for installation of the top while these surfaces are still accessible. I'm careful to cut this over a pin in the sides so the groove is hidden.
Step 4: Assembly
Now all the pieces are cut and ready for assembly! Notice I also cut some slots in the ends of the handle, these will be used later.
The corner joints are all glued together along with the handle where it passes through the sides. It's a bit of a deceptively tricky glue-up because the handle and top panel all have to be installed before the box can go together.
The mallet starts pulling the joints together, but I finish that with some clamps.
Part for decoration and part to hold the joint together, I install some walnut accent wedges to expand the handle out tight to the joint.
Step 5: Fitting the Bottom
I cut this rabet around the perimeter of the bottom of the box and then just need to square off the corners with a chisel.
The plywood bottom is screwed in place so that it can be removed later for the ashes and then sealed back up.
Then it's just a matter of doing the final sanding, rounding over some corners, and softening the rest.
Step 6: Plaque
I want the box to have a little bit more personalization so I mount a piece of 1/8" acrylic in my CNC to engrave his name.
For some color contrast, I spray black spray paint on the plaque and then rub off the excess.
I then decide to make the acrylic slightly opaque by hitting it quickly with the sander.
Step 7: Finishing Touches
To finish the box I use tongue oil, it really brings out the grain and gives it this awesome depth plus it gives it a bit of a shine.
Last step is to attach the name plaque to the front of the box. I pre-drill and attach it with a screw on each corner.
Step 8: Glamour Shots!
Thanks for checking out this build, this was a particularly powerful build for me.
Be sure to checkout the video for the full experience: