Step 8: Docking Hole

I wanted an access hole for the docking cable. The perfect width of slot (to hold the New iPad or "iPad3")  turns out to be about 3/8" so I fitted my drill press with a 3/8" Forstner bit. Drilling from the bottom avoids damaging the topside edges of the slot. This drilling can also be done with a regular hand-held drill and twist bit but requires a firmer hold and more care.
Beautiful stand! <br> <br>I was curious - you think it'd be possible to cut a slot with a table saw or router as a chase for the usb cable? I'm going to give this a go with some left over butcher block countertop this morning...
This is admittedly the biggest little challenge. Little as in insignificant -- because in actual use, the docking cable connects fine from the left in landscape mode. Unless, of course, you really insist on portrait mode. So an underside channel is possible, but I would recommend a much thicker board to avoid kinking the cable. And then you might as well consider adding four short legs instead.
Looks great! <br /> <br />Maybe instead of using a spacer, you could cut a groove through the middle of the bottom of the board to allow the cord to lie underneath it? The board might not be thick enough, though. :)
Thanks for the early comment! <br /> <br />Yeah, cord management was a consideration. My prototype (the 2x4 scrap) had a channel on the underside. But sometimes the cord comes from the right side, sometimes the rear-left, sometimes directly rear. Then it comes down to how much kink the Apple Dock Connector cable can repeatedly take. I took a pic to illustrate...

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