Step 2: Build the Frame

We used two 96" (8-foot) 2" x 4"s for the long ends and two 34 5/8" 2" x 4"s for the short ends (takes into account the true dimensions of 2" x 4"s so we would end up with a frame that was exactly 36" wide to match the width of our plywood).

My husband cut the short end pieces with the circular saw because he's fast and I'm afraid to use it. I am, however, comfortable with the jigsaw and could have easily used it to cut any of the 2" x 4"s.

We added three more 34 5/8" horizontal cross braces to the rectangular frame. These add stability and double as roosts for the chickens!

We then squared up the frame and added diagonal cross braces.

Every connection was pre-drilled and screwed using two 2 1/2" galvanized deck screws. It is easier if you have two guns: one for drilling and one for screwing.
<p>i do like this.......</p>
<p>i love this! Maybe i can make it this summer for my rabbits :)</p>
<p>Can I ask, Did you put galvanised wire to close in the bottom ?</p>
<p>This looks great. I'm going to make one and incorporate it with a coop. Thanks a bunch.</p>
I LOVE IT and plan to use this idea for my chickens...i just finished my greenhouse i built with the same exact concept just larger and it is GREAT, I used PVC as well 2o ft ones and built my green house and now i will use the same idea for the coop....just need to figure the nesting box for the design here or simply just do a rectangle shape...however i love this idea...you did great
I'm late to the party, but your instructions for this &quot;barrow&quot; are really well done. I appreciate your thoroughness. I am getting chickens in 31 days! I am building a coop and run but also something like this so I can set it on my raised compost and garden beds. I will let them rove freely in my small fenced back yard. Well, that's the master plan, anyway. My beds will be placed on a second back lot that I will let them range on when I'm standing guard but a contained area would also be a great help. Thank you.
Hmm... Not a bad idea, although the curved supports look a bit... difficult! Would it be possible to build a rectangle version of this, and replace the PVC with wooden posts?
awang8 re a square structure. as an earlier comment suggested, square or rectangular are weaker or have stress points. curved roofs look cool and are inherently stronger. <br> <br>wire in the floor? chickens learn not to scratch and hurt themselves in a few minutes. i use chicken wire around baby fruit trees to prevent free-ranging birds from scratching up the roots. they soon give it up. the only loss would be tha the chickens can't really scratch the ground over. but if you mainly want eggs and green pick feed for the birds, and want to maintain a lawn, wire is fine. espaceially when you're moving the coop and want no houdinis. great build
Awang8, the PVC supports were actually quite easy to bend (slowly) and secure with the pipe straps and screws. You could certainly try building a square version using wood, but it would be a lot heavier. You could, however, make it square using PVC pipe and the appropriate PVC connectors, although it would be a bit more costly, and you would need to do more cutting of the pipe.
<br>The 2x4's are better as roosts, especially for large fowl. When they are resting on the 2&quot; side of the board, or have their toes wrapped around a dowel, they can't get the ends of their toes covered in the cold, and they can get frostbite. I have 2x4 roosts that I routed to make a softer edge, but they are mounted with the wide side for them to sit on.<br><br>I also would not recommend wire across the bottom, as they can actually tear out their toenails, or do similar damage to their feet. They won't realize that they can't scratch, just peck. Wire flanged out from the sides and staked &quot;should&quot; take care of the predator problem. To test, take a 3-yr-old boy and see if he can get it. Many raccoons are as strong and as smart as a toddler.<br><br>Great idea, and good instructions!
pretty cool idea! of course 'some' people are gonna ask questions/advice...<br>snakes as predators....what about them? i net one could get in, snag an egg and not be able to get back out very easily!<br><br>maybe drill holes along your 'ridge beam' to stabilise the pvc tubing some, and to also allow the cage part to lay down a bit. would also reduce some of the hardware if holes were drilled.<br><br>i'm guessing you didn't use treated wood for hen health reasons...are these 'barrows' meant to last very long? i'm on the gulf coast, going through drought like conditions but that is always subject to change!<br>thanks for taking the time out to detail this for us!
Great work ! Many years ago The Mother Earth News featured this concept and I was only just reminded of it by seeing one in use and decided to look for any new info - presto - here we are. Just FYI - http://www.nhlife.org/2008/06/23/chicken-tractor. is no longer there and it appears that www.nhlife.org is no longer an active domain.
Great job. I built a green house similar to this once. I used a Forstner bit to drill holes and then slipped the PVC into it. Makes for a flush edge for tacking your wire down. The pipe won't be in the way then.
Thank you for your comment. A greenhouse of the same design is next on the to-do list! I did think about threading the PVC pipe into drilled holes in the 2" x 4"s but was afraid of mangling the wood - maybe I will try it with the greenhouse.
I would love to see the roosting boxes you have added. How has it worked for you since building it?<br />
Great instructable!!!&nbsp; I'll likely post a link to this over on our homesteading froums.&nbsp; This is one of the best designs for a tractor that I've seen.<br /> <br /> Thanks for sharing!!<br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.theruralindependent.com/" rel="nofollow">www.theruralindependent.com/</a><br />
this is awesome, i allways wanted some chickens but my mum says theyre too noisy, perhapes when i move out ill get some, and build em one of these, i was looking at the shape of it, you could make one with solid walls and a door to sleep in, its like a tiny house pod, lol. again good work, im totaly stealing this idea.
ours are very quiet, only clucking a bit when you lock them up.<br /> Roosters are noisy and different breeds of hen have different characteristics.<br /> Ours are a sussex star and a rhode red black hybrid. Both dead friendly, quiet and good layers. Seems the fancier you go the more trouble they are.<br /> &pound;10 each at 24 weeks fully vaccinated, already had enough eggs to earn that back (only had them a month or so).<br /> Read up on suitable breeds. I bet you could get some. <br /> Ours are so easy, wish I'd done it sooner<br />
wow in missouri we get chickes for 3.00 after shipping and raise them in an old fish tank in the house
yeh chicks are that cheap here too, but for &pound;10 you get a healthy full size bird fully vaccinated. Vaccinations aren't free. Ours laid their first eggs the day after we brought them home and have been going strong since.<br /> I think the price reflects that some one else has done a bunch of work for you.<br /> Incidentally if you wanted a silkie or hen that layed blue eggs they're like &pound;30 each!<br />
wish i lived closer to ya i just like rasing little ones i guessI train mine to come when ever i call and they jump in my hand its fun to watch new peoples see this and very useful for moving them around.<br /> now as far as vaccination what all do you give them.<br /> Around here we dont even know what that means
dunno, as I bought mine already done, I don't know the specifics.<br /> I just had a quick search around the web and plenty of people don't seem to bother doing it, and apparently vaccinations are expensive, like minimum order is 1000. So no use for small flocks.<br /> Guess if your hens are happy then they'll be alright. Just don't let them mix with other peoples birds or you might get contaminated or something.<br /> <br />
god, want some chooks even more now, was so close to buying one the other day, guy had chooks, ducks, geese, quales, all manner of little birdies, i looked into it in my area, need a damn permit, that alone costs $200, plus the chooks, and the pen/cage, seems like too much trouble right now, but its still a dream, i just hope one day it comes to fruition, like i said previously, pretty much as soon as i move out, its chickens galore. thanks for the info and inspiration lasersage, mad props to you.
men with beards can recline and place a few day old chick under the beard and on the chest just like mamas wing where they will sleep for a few min twice a day [ wear a junk t shift and be ready to wash that nasty out of your beard]<br /> the great benifit to me is when im exausted and the cat or dog breaks in i will have chickens litteraly screaming in my ear if they can see me through the window that overlooks the chicken yard, a shelf ouside the window helps.<br /> WARNING keep a good window screen closed or you will wake up with company[go ahead laugh i would]
if you start with tiny chickes and put feed in the palm of your hand a couple times a day its just a matter of time till they jump into your hand.<br /> so now i make a peeping noise and full grown chickens run to me and jump in my hand and i put them where i want them.it amazes my neighbors and is very useful just be sure to give them nice rewardsoccasionaly when they let you put them down to keep them friendly.as they get older 5 or 6 weeks start using a glove as a full grown bird can really put the clamp on you.<br />
Something you need to be aware of is that small predators such as Raccoons, Weasels, Skunks, and others will quickly figure out that they can burrow underneath. A simple way to stop this is to use the chicken wire on the bottom as well. Grass and grubs will still come up through the wire allowing the chickens access to the tasty goodies, but will prevent the predators from accessing the chickens. It will also make it easier to move chickens and all if you don't want them getting loose.
From what I understand, you are not supposed to put chicken wire on the floor because chickens like to scratch and will injure themselves on the wire.
Thanks, KD7CAO. If flanging the wire out around the perimeter doesn't keep the predators out, I will probably put wire on the bottom, but the fella I got the design from made it sound like it wouldn't be a problem. The barrow will only be moved a little bit at a time, and I read that the chickens will just roost on the cross braces as you move it around - I also plan to let them out during the day anyway (supervised) and can move it then.
What a great instructable! I'm actually following all of your steps, but the resulting cage will be for my 3 bunnies. I'm adding a woodden floor in order to keep them inside of the cage (won't let them dig his way out). I really appreciate this tut. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for your nice comment! I'm glad that someone is able to make use of it - it is really working out well design-wise. My chickens are very happy in it. Please post a picture when you're done!
Hey, it's me again. It's been a long week and I just finished the project. I'm not really familiar with tools and wood, but I did my best! Here's a pic of the result.
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.twitpic.com/7eqwx">http://www.twitpic.com/7eqwx</a><br/>
That is AWESOME! I think you did an excellent job - congratulations! I'm sure your bunnies will be very happy in there. Please post a picture once you get them settled in!
where is the door ?
We added the locking, hinged door a few weeks later. Here are some pictures for you:
You are also missing nest boxes and a coop of some sort for the chickens to get out of the bad weather. For the coop/rain shelter you could use a piece of plastic over one end. Otherwise nice build and nice design. I have built a couple chicken tractors in the past but eventually found that just having a coop with a chicken yard in one place and letting them out to forage in the afternoons works well for me. Then again I started with a few chickens and currently with the new chicks (hatched this week) and quail have about 40 birds.
Thanks for your comment, fishbuster. I did mention in the introduction that I plan to build a nesting box on one end and that I also plan use a tarp that is half the width of the barrow and secured by 2" x 4"s as shelter from wind and rain. I did not want a stationary coop because I plan to position the barrow over vegetable beds at the end of the growing season and have the chickens till and fertilize the soil. 40 birds is a lot! I will probably stick with just four. ;)
I must have missed that in reading. I started that way and now ended up with a bunch of them. I live in the country so I can have as many as I want but I also found out I can sell a few eggs and birds and offset the cost of the hobby thus the large amount of chicks recently hatched. I also have 15 quail along with the 14 hens with two roosters. 40 Was a conservative estimate I counted them today and it is 54 currently. Chicken leftovers in my opinion make the best compost. I also "feed" them anything I would normally have composted (leaves piled in as well) and every year I scrape the top layer of chicken yard and move it to the garden. Between them scratcing breaking and turning stuff, chicken poo, and the decomposition of leftovers they did not eat it is a no work compost pile.
I used a pen for hens on the same concept but certainly not as nice or fancy. Four hens kept us in plenty of eggs as I had a covered place for two nests. This domed pattern is alot stronger than mine. I actually only had wheels on one end and the chickens just walked along as I moved it. Nice job.
Thanks for your nice comment, mandm2525!
Terific idea. My only comment concerns the longevity of the PVC. Sunlight (UV) will degrade the PVC (It will turn brown/black) and weaken it until it cracks or breaks. Give it a coat of paint (chicken safe paint) and it will last quite a bit longer, but it's life span will still be only a few years. I'm trying to think of another flexable material that will last for you but I'm drawing a blank. I keep coming back to steel. Ahh well - age will do that to ya. Great idea though! Post some picts when the chicknes take up residence! Mikey
I have made similar structures without pvc. I arched 2 cattle panels over to make the roof.
Thanks, shawnrmartin. I saw something online where someone used cattle panels as well, but the PVC was more readily available where I'm located. Next time, maybe I'll try to hunt down a farm supply store...
No, the PVC does fine. I just happened to have the cattle panels around. (and it saved me the welded wire for strength.) I have a greenhouse with PVC frame, and it's 7 years old, and going strong. (We do, however, cover it with shade cloth during the summer.) Central TX, brutal heat.
Thanks, Mikey D. They do make UV-resistant PVC, but this was unavailable at the hardware store I went to. I thought of using electrical conduit, but the PVC was much cheaper. I plan to get my chickies tomorrrow and will post pictures once they're settled in (after being brooded indoors for a few weeks)!
Have you finished it yet?
drsnug: I haven't had a chance to add the finishing touches, but the chicks are being happily brooded indoors and will be ready to move into the barrow in about four weeks. I'm really hoping to find time this weekend to finish it so I don't have to worry about it anymore! I've added a picture of the chicks here - they're growing like crazy and have double in size from this picture taken a week ago!
Chicks look great. Can't wait to see the final project.
Hmmm. I like this a lot! We actually have a 10'x10' pen with 4 nest box inside. Was going to try to build pen bigger so they arnt free ranging all the time! (messy and get in garden when not wanted to) This would be great with the wheels on bottom for rolling free ranger. (husband love that he doesn't ever have to mow!!)
Thank you, pinemom!

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