Materials used were some old oak, some glue, and some latex varnish. You will also need some Fisher-Price people, or will need to make some of your own, probably on a lathe. I will give some dimensions in one of the steps.
Tools used were a radial arm saw (A table saw, even a hand crosscut saw would work.), a router, an electric drill with a 1/2 inch twist bit and a 7/8 inch spade bit, clamps for gluing, a chisel, a spokeshave, and a file. I also used some sandpaper and a brush for the varnish.
Step 1: The Fuselage
The fuselage as I made it is 1 5/8 inch thick side to side, 2 inches high top to bottom, and 12 3/4 inches long.
Measure 6 7/8 inches forward from the rear of the fuselage on the bottom of the airplane. Mark a line across the bottom of the fuselage. Rabbet 5/8 inch deep and 2 3/4 inch wide for the wing.
See the yellow text boxes for a reference when making the cuts described in the rest of this step. From this same mark taper the bottom of the fuselage to the rear end of the fuselage that makes the fuselage only 3/8 inch high at its rear end (under the tail and rear stabilizer).
Turn the fuselage over onto its top surface and taper the sides of the fuselage toward the rear. The tapers begin at the rear of the wing and leave the fuselage 3/4 inch wide at the rear end.
Step 2: Cuts for the Windscreen and the Upper Engine Cowling
Step 3: Under the Engine Cowling
Step 4: People Holes
I drilled 1/2 inch holes from one side of the fuselage to the other to replicate windows in the aircraft. There are three of them. They are equally spaced between the centers for the holes on the top. They are also equally spaced between the top of the fuselage and the top of the wing.
Step 5: People Dimensions
Step 6: The Rear Stabilizers
See the line drawing for the fifth image. The horizontal stabilizer is 2 inches by 4 inches, and shaped to look like those on a real airplane. The vertical stabilizer is 2 inches high (plus the length of the tongue) and 2 1/2 inches long. The front edge of the vertical stabilizer is sloped backward as it runs toward the top. The corners are rounded in a way that is pleasing to the eye. See step 1 for profile of the vertical stabilizer.
Glue the stabilizers in place with a good wood glue. Allow them to dry and cure fully.
The angular corners of the vertical and horizontal stabilizers should be rounded with a file and smoothed with sandpaper to resemble what you see in the photos. The attachment of both stabilizers is the weakest point in the construction of this airplane. I wanted the maximum glue surface area and the maximum interlocking of the parts to provide the greatest strength so the airplane would last when tested by children playing with it. If you wish, you may drill from the underside of the fuselage and add dowels pins that connect the stabilizeers more firmly to the airplane. I did not do this and my airplane has survived our children and our grandchild.
Step 7: The Wing
As said earlier, all control surfaces are from wood 5/8 inch thick. Notice that the wing is raked both on the leading and the trailing edges. Begin with a piece of wood 5/8 x 3 1/4 x 14. Taper the trailing edge of the wing so the taper rises 1/2 inch on each side to the point where each half of the wing intersects with the fuselage. From the point where each half of the leading edge of the wing intersects with the fuselage taper the wing back from its 2 3/4 inch width where it fits into the rabbet made for it in the bottom of the fuselage to a width of 2 inches at each wingtip. Round the corners.
While the wing is still unattached to the airplane, use a spokeshave to give it the classic teardrop shape of an airplane wing. Leave the wing with square corners where it fits into the rabbet on the bottom of the airplane, but shape it as much as possible from the side of the fuselage to the tip of the wing.
Glue the wing in place. Sand to make a smooth airplane look. Finish with clear varnish. The kids in your life will enjoy loading and flying their people with their own airplane.