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The inspiration for this project came from babysitting my 1-year old nephew. He will quickly lose interest in a room full of toys, but he LOVES light switches. The problem with light switches is that they are several feet off the ground. This requires an adult to stand there holding him so he can play with the switch. Typically, the adult's patience for this will run out long before his does. So I thought of a solution: light switches that he can reach, in the form of a toy box with light switches and LEDs. Simple to make for about $25 worth of parts, it was a fun afternoon project and well worth it based on his reaction. If you're a little intimidated by the awesome NASA mission control desk, but would like to learn how to make such panel-based toys, this could be a good way to start! If you get stuck or have any questions, please leave a comment and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

Head on to the next step for a materials list. But first, check out this video of the finished device in action:

Step 1: Materials

I got the most of the hardware for this project in-person at Lowe's:

You will need the following circuit components - this is all standard stuff you should be able to find at your vendor of choice (SparkFun, Adafruit, Radio Shack, Jameco etc.) or may already have laying around if you have a well-stocked workshop (note: I forgot to include a couple of these in the picture above):

You will need something to actually make the box. I got the wooden box pictured above from A.C. Moore for $6. Some other suggestions:

  • Cardboard box (shoebox would work well, but may be less durable in the long run)
  • Large tupperware container or plastic storage bin (cool because you can see the wiring on the inside)
  • Build your own box from scratch (I was in a hurry so didn't take this route)

Finally, you will need the following tools (this may change depending on what material you use for the box):

  • Phillips and flat heat screwdrivers
  • Power drill with assorted bits
  • Jigsaw
  • Soldering iron
  • Wire strippers
  • Hot glue gun
  • Heat gun or hair dryer if you're using heat shrink tubing
  • Ruler
  • pencil

* Value does not have to be exact - I picked a small resistor to go with
the 3V battery pack, but didn't actually bother doing the LED current calculation.

Step 2: Design the Front Panel Layout

The front panel layout is up to you. You mainly need to decide two things:

  • Where to drill holes for the LEDs
  • Where to cut rectangular holes for the electrical boxes

I went for a simple approach with the light switches side-by-side and the LEDs centered above the four switches. No fancy CAD work here - above you can just see a sketch of my layout with dimensions (although, gee, it sure would be nice if I had my own laser cutter to make a fancier front panel...).

Note that the holes for the electrical boxes are smaller than the perimeters of the faceplates. The second image above shows this. Also note that the electrical boxes each have six tabs around the perimeter - you do not want to include these tabs in the outline that you cut in the front panel. You just want to cut a rectangular hole, so the box can slide into it, and the tabs will rest on the surface of the front panel (see "side view" diagram).

Once you've come up with your design, use a pencil and ruler to trace it onto your front panel.

Step 3: Cut the Front Panel

Now, cut out the rectangular holes for the electrical boxes, and drill holes for the LEDs. Again, the tools and methods you use to do this might vary depending on the type of box you're using. I drilled four pilot holes in the corners of each rectangle, then used a jigsaw to cut out the rectangles.

Next, I picked a drill bit with a diameter wider than the spacing of the LED leads, but smaller than the outer diameter of the LED. This will allow me to push the leads through the holes, and have the bottom surface of the LED flush with the front panel.

Step 4: Attach Wires to the Switches

Important safety note before you continue: DO NOT FOLLOW THESE DIRECTIONS TO INSTALL REAL LIGHT SWITCHES. This is a battery-powered, low-voltage hobby project.Light switches in buildings are hooked up to high-voltage AC, which can either kill you on the spot if you don't know what you're doing, or burn your house down later if you do a shoddy job with the wiring. I am not a trained electrician, and I have zero experience with light switch hardware before doing this project, so I made this up as I went along. If you need to install real light switches, contact a licensed electrician.

Anyway:

  1. Cut 8 segments of hookup wire. I'd recommend doing 4 segments each of 2 different colors. The exact length you need will depend on the size of the box you're using and your front panel layout - I'd recommend starting with about 12", and you can always trim them down later.
  2. Strip the ends of the wires.

  3. Each switch should have two screw terminals on one side (there is a
    third screw on the opposite side, but you can ignore that). Wrap the end of a wire around each screw, and use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten it, as pictured above.

  4. Do this for all four switches.

Step 5: Mount the Switches in the Electrical Boxes

Lots of pictures for this step! Time to mount the switches in the electrical boxes.

  1. Pop out the little circle on the back of the electrical box (I used a hobby knife to weaken the tabs holding it in place).
  2. Thread the wires you attached to the switch in the previous step through the hole.
  3. Pull the wires through to the back of the box.
  4. Align the switch so it is resting on the front of the box. Mounting holes on the switch should line up with holes in the box.
  5. Use the screws that came with the switch to attach it to the box.
  6. Repeat steps 2-5 for the second switch, so you have four wires sticking out of the back.
  7. Repeat steps 1-6 for the second electrical box and the other two switches.

Step 6: Mount the Electrical Boxes on the Front Panel

Mount the electrical boxes to the front panel:

  1. Slide the boxes into the rectangular holes.
  2. Each box has two screws in diagonally opposite corners. Tightening these screws pulls up a tab on the back, clamping the box to the front panel (see pictures).
  3. Fully tighten all four screws to secure both boxes to the front panel.

Step 7: Mount the Faceplates

This one is pretty simple - each faceplate should have come with four screws. The holes in the faceplates will line up with holes in the switches, not the electrical boxes. Use those screws to secure the faceplates.

Step 8: Mount the LEDs

This is where the glue comes in (fingers crossed for the glue contest). Either put glue on the back of the LEDs, or around the perimeter of the hole on the front panel, then thread the LED's leads through the hole and press it firmly against the front panel. Just be careful not to get glue all over the place, since you'll have to clean it up later (including the LED's leads, since you'll need to solder to those).

Important: pay attention to LED polarity! To make things easier in the next step, I'd recommend having all the long leads (anode) and short leads (cathode) aligned. Although it's hard to see in the last row above, all my long leads are facing to the right, and all the short leads are facing to the left.

Note to parents - my LED leads are corroded because I'd previously used them with Squishy Circuits and was lazy about cleaning them off. If your kids are the right age for you to actually read this far, they'll probably have fun with squishy circuits too.

Step 9: Wire the Circuit

I was in a hurry to get this done while my nephew was visiting, so I did a pretty bad job with cable management - I apologize for the messy pictures. If you're familiar with circuit diagrams or "breadboard diagrams" (even though there is no actual breadboard involved here), you can probably just follow one of the first two diagrams above to wire the circuit. Otherwise, you can follow these steps:

  1. Remember, if you are using heat shrink tubing, to slide it onto the wires BEFORE you solder them together. Not that I have ever made that mistake.
  2. Solder the red (positive) lead from the battery pack to one terminal of the rocker switch.
  3. Twist the leads of the resistors to the long* leads of the LEDs and solder them together.
  4. Use hookup wire (I'd recommend red, if you have multiple colors) to solder each resistor to the other terminal of the rocker switch.
  5. Solder one wire from each switch to the short lead of its corresponding LED.
  6. Twist together and solder the other four wires from each switch.
  7. Solder those wires to the black (ground) lead from the battery pack.
  8. Mount the battery pack and rocker switch inside the front panel using hot glue.

If you need more help with this step, here are some good references:

* Each individual LED is wired in series with a resistor and a switch. The order the three components are in doesn't really matter, this just happens to be what I picked.

Step 10: Test the Front Panel

You probably want to make sure this works, otherwise you might have a very disappointed toddler on your hands. Make sure the internal rocker switch is on, and flip each light switch back and forth a few times to make sure the LEDs turn on and off. If nothing explodes or breaks, and you don't see any smoke, odds are you're good to go. If the LEDs don't light up at all, the mostly likely cause is probably just that you have their polarity backwards. Double-check that and the rest of your wiring and solder connections, then try again.

Step 11: Optional: Finishing Touches

Obviously how you choose to decorate the box, if at all, is up to you. I chose to just keep a minimalist approach and not do any painting. I did sand down the edges and corners slightly because they were a little sharp, but that's it.

Depending on the type of container you used, you might want to add some sort of hinge or latch mechanism, to prevent a curious kid from taking off the lid and ripping out the wiring.

Step 12: Play Time!

Time for some audience testing! My nephew was a little confused at first and tried pushing the LEDs. Once we demonstrated the toggle switches, he was quite happy to sit there flipping them back and forth. He seems to like the green LED best for some reason.

So of course, he'll outgrow this eventually...but that will give me an excuse to build one of those mission control desks.

Thanks for reading! If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask in the comments below.

<p>Took some time to find a passing box, but at the end my son is happy with it. Didn't do any circuits since my studies, so had to recover some basics, which was fun and educating for myself.</p><p>Thank you for perfect instructable! I just enhanced it a little bit with a white LED, which simply indicates, that a whole circuir is turned on :)</p>
<p>Thanks, and glad your son likes it!</p>
<p>Just built this for my 20 month old grandson. We had been talking about a device just like this when I came across your plans! I used a wooden box from Michaels, installed stronger hinges and hasps and set them with screws so Mom and Dad will have access to the batteries. I also added a &quot;power on&quot; light, just for fun (that's the red one in the middle). To do this I had a multi-device rocker switch, though I expect one could just put it on the line with the other lights and no other switch. I also used these neat plastic led holders from Sparkfun (COM-11148) so that my very inquisitive (and strong) grandson can't pull the LEDs loose from the box. I REALLY like the diffuse 10 MM LEDs. I started out with some regular dome LEDs, but they were too bright for a toddler to be staring at from close range. The diffuse ones light up more completely too. No pinpoint.</p><p>He is traveling with his parents this week, but I can't wait for him to get home and try this out!!!!</p><p>Thank you, Thank you for sharing your plans! ! </p>
<p>I like the panel mount LED holders - I've found that over time the LEDs in my design aren't holding up to abuse that well because babies like to pull on them when they light up. I'll keep those in mind for my next project!</p>
<p>Hi Ben, I bought the battery holder below from SparkFun so I wouldn't<br> have to order from two places and pay for shipping twice. Would it <br>work if I cut off the connector? Also, there is a built-in switch so <br>would I still need the rocker switch?</p><p><a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9925" rel="nofollow">https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9925</a></p><p>I am having trouble with my circuit using alligator test leads and am trying to narrow down the problem.</p><p>One last question: should rechargeable AA batteries work? I noticed they are only 1.2 V instead of 1.5 V.</p>
<p>Hi Nate -</p><p>1. Yes, it should work if you just cut off the connector. That will leave you with separate red and black wires.</p><p>2. Since there's a built-in switch then no, you don't need a separate power switch.</p><p>3. Rechargeable batteries should work, but you might want to use a slightly smaller resistor since the voltage is lower. I was <em>really</em> lazy with this project and didn't do the math to size proper resistors, I just grabbed some off my shelf and eyeballed it. There are lots of tutorials online that will show you how to do resistor calculations for LEDs though.</p>
I may have went a little overboard but it turned out awsome. Decided to make a box my son could see thru and see the wires, so then decided to use computer uv wire sleeving and put uv leds on the inside to make them glow. Thanks for the idea and inspiration.
<p>Awesome! No such thing as overboard :).</p>
yea no such thing lol, are those joystick buttons??
<p>If you are near a Michaels and are looking for a wood box, I found a few good options there:</p><p><a href="http://www.michaels.com/artminds-wooden-photo-box/10385255.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.michaels.com/artminds-wooden-photo-box/...</a></p><p>http://www.michaels.com/artminds-wood-box/10399984.html#q=artminds+box&amp;start=12</p>
<p>What is the thickness (height) of the wood box? From the photos I'm guessing around 6&quot;?</p>
That sounds about right but the exact height shouldn't matter. I wouldn't go too small or you won't have enough depth for the backs of the electrical boxes.
<p>Thanks again!</p>
Very cool. I'm a bit intimidated to try this but will give it a shot. <br><br>Would a dimmer switch work with this? Would I need to change or add any components?
So, the short answer is &quot;it might work, but not very well.&quot; <br><br>The longer answer (this requires a basic understanding of voltage, current, and resistance, which is beyond what I'll explain in this comment - check out this tutorial if you aren't familiar with those terms: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/voltage-current-resistance-and-ohms-law/ohms-law): traditional dimmer switches are designed to work well with incandescent bulbs, not LEDs. They work by changing their resistance when you turn the knob. This works well with incandescent bulbs because their brightness is roughly proportional to voltage across them. That's why you can get a very linear response from &quot;off&quot; to &quot;full brightness&quot; when you turn a dimmer switch.<br><br>That is NOT how LEDs work. LEDs have very nonlinear behavior where they will not turn on at all below a certain threshold voltage, and then will rapidly go to full brightness. So, LED brightness is usually controlled by something called Pulse Width Modulation (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation) - basically flickering the LED on and off faster than the eye can see, to control the effective brightness. <br><br>So, you can try sticking a dimmer switch in this circuit, and it might work, but it won't have the same &quot;feel&quot; that you're used to from dimmer switches. The LED might not turn at all for much of the knob's rotation.<br><br>It certainly can't hurt to try though. If you're new to electronics and intimidated by this, I'd recommend getting some alligator clips:<br><br>https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12978<br><br>They will allow you to easily make temporary connections before you have to worry about soldering, so you can test everything out before you start building.<br><br>Good luck and let me know if you have more questions!<br><br>
<p>Thank you very much!</p>
<p>I ended up using different LEDs so I needed different voltages/currents, but I managed to take three of the 100 ohm resistors and make a 150 ohm resistor by putting two of them in parallel with the third connected in series (1/R = 1/R1 + 1/R2). I ended up understanding one of the biggest issues I had with learning electronics (why resistors are always needed) as a result of this project, so thank you very much for posting this!</p>
<p>Glad it worked out! If you haven't already, it's probably worth buying a resistor kit if you plan on doing more projects in the future. Resistors are cheap, so it gets expensive to ship just a few of them each time you need one, and combining a bunch of 100 ohm resistors to get the value you want will get annoying in the long run (but clever solution in the short term!)</p><p><a href="https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10969">https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10969</a></p><p><a href="http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/StoreCatalogDrillDownView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&freeText=resistor%20kit&search_type=jamecoall">http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/St...</a></p>
Hey awesome project. I have a quick question. When all was said and done when I flipped the switches, the LEDs all had power but they would shine like a pin size of color. Not the whole LED. I'm thinking maybe not enough power? First time builder so any help is greatly appreciated!!
<p>Hi - yes, if the LEDs aren't lighting up at full brightness, that means they aren't getting enough power. Assuming you used a 2xAA battery holder, that means two possibilities:</p><p>- The batteries are almost dead - try fresh ones</p><p>- The resistors you're using are too big, and limiting the current too much. </p><p>Where did you buy your resistors? Do you know what value they are?</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>this project looks awesome and I want to make one myself, just one question though.</p><p>What is the use of those resistors? Are they really necessary?</p>
<p>Putting a resistor in series with an LED is a general rule of thumb to prevent the LED from blowing out. Otherwise the LED can draw too much current when connected directly to the battery. You <em>definitely</em> want to do that when using 3 or 4 AAA batteries (4.5 or 6 volts respectively, which will blow your LED). You <em>might</em> be able to get away without it when only using 2 batteries (3 volts) like in this project, but I figured better safe than sorry. As I said in the first step, I was lazy and didn't bother calculating the correct resistor value.</p>
Do you do any for sale. I am not much of a builder ?
<p>Hi - unfortunately I do not have time to build and sell my Instructables. However, I hope that I wrote the directions clearly enough that even a beginner could do this project. Take your time, read the directions thoroughly, and look at all the pictures, and you should be able to do it. Or maybe you could find someone with more experience to help you build one or build it for you?</p>
<p>Thanks for the helpful Instructable! I made it, and my little girl loves it.</p><p>I had never soldered before. It intimidated me a little, but it wasn't difficult at all.</p><p>Suggestion: Thrift stores can be a great place to find wooden boxes. I found a card game, in the game section, which came in a great wooden box. (I then sold the card game on ebay, sans box, recouping the cost of the box.)</p><p>One mistake I made -- I ordered a 4xAA battery holder instead of a 2xAA. More is better, right? Guess what happened... The LEDs were REALLY bright. Two were blinding, so I added a few more resistors. I don't understand electricity much, but even I should have anticipated that.</p><p>Thanks again!</p>
<p>Awesome - glad it worked out!</p><p>I should point out that there are plenty of soldering tutorials out there (on Instructables and other places like YouTube) if you want to learn more about it. There are also tutorials that will explain the whole LED voltage thing (you got the rule of thumb right though - too much voltage can blow out the LEDs, adding more resistors prevents that):</p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/">https://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resis...</a></p><p>http://www.evilmadscientist.com/2012/resistors-for-leds/</p><p>If you google &quot;LED resistance calculator&quot; there are also pages that will just do the math for you, and tell you what size resistor you need to pick based on the battery voltage:</p><p><a href="http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz">http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz</a></p><p><a href="http://ledcalc.com/">http://ledcalc.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Some rules of thumb:</p><p>A single alkaline battery is 1.5 volts. Battery packs combine these in series, so voltages add. 2xAA = 3 volts, 4xAA = 6 volts.</p><p>The &quot;voltage drop across LED&quot; depends on the color. To find the exact value you will need to look at the data sheet for the LEDs you bought, but this image shows the general ranges:</p><p><a href="http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/30%20LED%20Projects/images/LED-Colour.gif">http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/30%20LE...</a></p><p>And finally the LED current is typically about 20 milliamps (higher for super-bright LEDs but that's not what most projects use when you just see regular LEDs in a circuit). </p><p>So, plug all that in and it will calculate the resistor value for you.</p>
<p>Just finished last night, well could use some fine tuning but today he gets to play with it. Great instructable, its great to see everyone's different takes on it. </p>
I used a cheap Tupperware container that has a removable lid. Used the 4 bank of switches and it worked well. Since the lid isnt very thick I had to hot glue the box into place but it held well.
<p>Nice!</p>
<p>I had such a blast making this! I made it out of an old jewelry box I found at the thrift shop. I'm hiding the wires under the lining so the grandkids can store their treasures in it too.</p>
<p>Reusing a jewelry box like that is such a great idea!</p>
<p>Great to hear! Hope the kids enjoy it.</p>
<p>it was fun, hope my nephew (14 months) will enjoy playing as much as I enjoyed making it :)</p>
<p>I hadn't seen the comments and realized so many people were making these - hope your nephew liked it!</p>
He loves it! :)
<p>I used the same box, but flipped upside-down so that the lid is the &quot;bottom&quot;. I used t-nuts and small bolts to hold the &quot;bottom&quot; on. </p><p>I mounted the switch hardware directly to the box, instead of a gang box, and I added a couple of different toggle switches, which I mounted directly to a blank wall plate. I found some &quot;chrome&quot; (painted plastic) led holders on eBay that I ended up having to glue the leds to. </p>
<p>Good idea mounting the switches directly to the box and skipping the gang boxes...makes the wiring much easier to access.</p>
This was a great and fun project to do. The little one loves it!
<p>Somehow I never noticed this comment - glad the kids liked it!</p>
<p>very nice and fast project (one night). i tried in tupperware but it cracked. wodden box is the best </p>
I like this
Cool project. I would probably put small translucent covers over the LEDs to spread out the light and make it easier to see, but you don't obviously need to do that to still see them.
<p><em>I'm going to make this simply because your nephew has the same 2 toys as my son. The Musical Walker and the Musical table. I'll let you know when it's completed. Awesome job</em></p>
<p>I made something similar years ago for a nephew of me who is now in his 20's. But to make it more attractive in sight I painted the top with a clown-figure and placed the lights in strategic places: his eyes, nose, buttons etc. It added a nice visual touch to the toy.</p>
<p>This is a really cool, simple project. I have a 1 year old niece who's birthday is this weekend, and this might be a cool project for her.</p><p>I'm wondering if you could have simplified this by just using a double gang box and put everything inside of it and not have to have a separate box to house everything. There should be enough room behind the switches for the battery pack, and you could mount the LED's in the cover plate.</p><p>And if you wanted four switches, you could use the double switches that fit in a single gang slot.</p>
<p>Better answer - someone on Reddit (freefrogs) posted this in a comment on /r/DIY:</p><p><a href="http://imgur.com/a/8IH0W" rel="nofollow">http://imgur.com/a/8IH0W</a></p><p>so yep, looks doable!</p>
<p>That's a cool idea! There's plenty of room behind the switches in the gang box, so I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. I'd only have two concerns:</p><p>1. You'd have to disassemble the whole thing to change the batteries, instead of just popping off a lid.</p><p>2. The cover plate overhangs the edges of the gang box by a few millimeters on each side. So, one side of your &quot;box&quot; would have sharp corners sticking out. </p><p>Still might be worth trying...maybe I'll post an Instructable on a &quot;mini&quot; version, unless you beat me to it :-).</p>
This a so cool I wish I was a kid
<p>You don't have to be a kid (or have kids) to build one...</p>
<p>Nice. I made something like this more than 30 years ago with flashlight bulbs and old component switches I had at work. It probably had 10 switches on it. Instead of exposing the bulbs, I had them behind old ceiling light panel material. My son also loved switches, at the time, and enjoyed the box. I may have to make a new one for my grandson. Thanks for the reminder.</p>

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Bio: For my day job I write K-12 STEM projects for www.sciencebuddies.org. In my spare time I write Instructables.
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