1. Place the motor on top of the square tubing and bolt it in, using the two 5/16" x 1 3/4" bolts.
2. Place the diode on the square tubing, about 2" behind the motor, and screw it into position using the self-tapping metal screw.
3. Connect the black wire coming out of the motor to the positive incoming terminal of the diode (Labeled AC on the positive side).
4. Connect the red wire coming out of the motor to the negative incoming terminal of the diode (Labeled AC on the negative side).
5. Center the tail over the square tubing, at the back end. Clamp your tail onto the side of the square tubing.
6. Using 2 self-tapping screws, screw the tail in place.
7. Place each blade on the hub so that all the holes line up. Using the 1/4" bolts and washers, bolt the blades to the hub. For the inner three holes, use two washers per bolt, one on each side of the blade. For the outer three holes, just use one washer next to the head of the bolt. Tighten.
8. Hold the end of the shaft of the motor (which comes through the hub) firmly with pliers, and turn the hub counterclockwise until it tightens and stops.
9. Screw the nipple tightly into the floor flange using a pipe wrench.
10. Clamp the nipple in a vice so that the floor flange is facing up and level.
11. Place the square tubing (and everything that is on it) on top of the floor flange and move it so that it is perfectly balanced.
12. Through the holes of the floor flange, mark the square tubing at the point of balance.
13. Drill these two holes using a 5/32" drill bit. You will probably have to take off the hub and tail to do this).
14. Attach the square tubing to the floor flange with two sheet metal screws.

For a longer life span of your wind generator, you should paint the blades, motor sleeve, mount and tail.
I have a permanent magnet 2.50 HP heavy duty treadmilll motor. It has a positive wire, a negative wire, and 2 blue wires that come off the positive post. What do I do with the blue wires? Do I have to use the bridge rectifier if I am using a charge controller? Any help would be appreciated.
<p>no brige rectifier is needed the i think the blue wires go to a temperature sensor which tells the treadmill what temperature the motor was. anyway for a wind turbine only use the black and red wires the blue wires are not needed</p>
Same. Anyone????????
fantastic! <br>made this for my yacht, I used a kids scooter for the swivel mount and the base.<br>thanks...
<p>As a hobbiest that has built a few of these I'll try to answer some common questions;<br><br>Keeping the wires from twisting. Place a plug/socket inline with the power cord at the base of tower, check it weekly for twisting, and if cord is twisting unplug it and un-twist it. I prefer twist lock plugs for this, ask at the big box store or go to an electrical supply house.<br><br>The 2 Blue wires on treadmill motors. Those are used for speed control of the motor <br>when used as a treadmill motor, they are un-needed for this application, just cut them off.<br><br>Motor Selection. Induction motors are not a good choice for wind turbines, the only way the can be used is by removing the rotor and adding magnets to it. Car alternators require being spun at high speeds, not a good choice. What you want is Permanent Magnet Treadmill motors.</p>
<p>i like it soo much</p>
<p>How does it continue to face the wind without twisting the wires?</p>
<p>can you use a car generator to feed batteries and then use a converter for the ac/dc conversion?</p>
If this is a dc brushed motor then the coil is the one rotating inside the magnets so it will automatically produce dc, adding a full bridge rectifier will ensure that if the motor spins in reverse it will produce the same polarity but it will decrease the output by 0.5 to1V
can ac motor be used? i got one out of my old fridge. it has three wires white blue and orange.so can i use diode bridge and acheive the same result as with a dc motor? on the side it says : merkle-korff industries model 3424rp-420 115v. 60 hz. idle: 1.20 amps rated: 1.4a-17mfd on/off: 2/20 sec p/n-10114804 any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
turn the motor by hand and see if you can read a voltage above 1 volt. If not, it probably won't work without gears or pulleys, if at all. If you want a motor that works, go to <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.velacreations.com/chispito.html">http://www.velacreations.com/chispito.html</a> and buy one from the recommended supplier.<br/>
acttualy it does have gears and it spins very fast, but when i connect it to my multimeter i get 0 volts. even when i use diode bridge still 0 volts, i tried every combination of the three wires, but no luck. does anyone know why? also i took it apart and noticed that it doesn't have any magnets(at least i could see any) in it, is this the reason?
The fridge motor is going to be an induction motor, so it wont work. Neither will a universal motor, as neither type has permanent magnets,
Since it doesn't have magnets, It is probably an induction motor, I don't think you can use them to generate electricity, Just my 0.02
yes, that is the reason. It would need to get up to speed before any output. You can take a look at the discussion board at otherpower.com for information on how to make a motor like this work.
How would you measure that one volt? I dont have any electricity measuring tools. Is there another way to possibly do it. If not how much would one of those cost?
i got my multymeter for less than 3 dollars, menards sells them for about 5 dollars.
Good project but the instructions in this page could be a lot clearer, or illustrated with some photos
I just loved it! I've searching for something easy and not expensive, now it is here. <br><br>Thanks.<br>Rodney,
In some circles, this 4 diode arrangement trapped in a little cube that takes AC and makes it DC is called a Full Bridge Rectifier. You will have better luck finding one at many electronics stores by that name. Frys Electronics sells them for about 10 bucks in California. Website frys.com
I built one of these and it works great. I bought most of the parts on ebay. <br /> <br /> The criticism I have with the design is the blades. I&nbsp; live in New York and we can get som serious wind in excess of 35 mph. The first day the wind gust went over 35 mph, the PVC blades snapped and crumbled into pieces. What a disaster!<br /> <br /> I wound up replacing the blades with some aluminum blades I found online at windynation:<br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.windynation.com/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&amp;productId=14" rel="nofollow">http://www.windynation.com/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&amp;productId=14</a><br /> <br /> So far so good and it has been 9 months. We have had a couple of days with 55 mph wind gusts.<br /> <br /> I would also recommend getting a slip ring if you live in an area with swirling wind like me. It will eliminate the tangling of your wires which run down your tower. Thanks for the article. I thought it was great.
id say go to a thrift store and get fan blades
One way to help minimize twist would be to install a stop pin. this would keep it from going more than 180 degrees in either dirction therfore eliminating it. <br>David
where do i buy guy wire lol anyways nice instructable but its gunna be hard to mount on a printer stepper motor with only one small gear on it. any su
ggestions for mounting. glitch posted it early
Those of you who may be worried about the wires going down the tower getting excessive twists due to swirling winds can install some slip rings. A good source for the electrical contacts and slip rings can be had by removing said items from an old car alternator. Thats a good source for heavy-duty 4-way bridging diodes also. Quite often, (at least in my area of NW USA) the treadmill motor can be had for free off http://craigslist.org free section or other free-lists for your area. Most times there is nothing wrong with the treadmill except perhaps a slipping belt. Treadmill motors plus the variable-speed controls are good for other DIY machines as well like a lathe, drill, sand disk, centrifuge, fan, etc!
Can anyone please tell me how the wires keep from getting twisted beyond repair when the rotor spins in the wind? Thanks
Well this what I have read on line: Use an extension cord, have the plug in at the bottom of the tower. Oh yea = the cord is inside the tower pipe. with a hole at the bottom. then the cord can be unplugged, so it can untwist, then replugged. The cord want twist as much as you might think as it will turn with the wind both ways.. STC
Ummm.... I think you're doing it wrong. Normally, the blades catch the wind, which spins a plate of magnets near a stator coil (that's "stator" as in "static," "stationary," "not moving"). The wires come from the stator coil (which should NOT be spinning), down the tower (through a rectifier if the stator coil's output is 3-phase AC) and into a charge controller hooked up to some heavy duty batteries (boat or car batteries usually). As the magnets pass over the coils, electricity is generated. If you're using an electric motor instead of making your own magnet/stator setup (Ametek motors are popular for DIY Wind generators), then the Blades turns the shaft of the motor, the body of which should stay stationary, and the leads off the motor run to the charge controller. If your wires are spinning and getting twisted, then your stator coil isn't stationary, which is normally a bad thing.
Thanks for your answer. I'm surely not looking at this correctly so let me try to explain my question again. Using the treadmill motor and plans on this site, if the blocking diode is mounted on the rotor/tail fin assembly square tubing....and the wires that come off diode run down the pole to the ground, what keeps the wires from getting twisted as the generator assembly/tail fin rotates around and around in the wind over time? LIke I said, I'm surely not looking at this correctly because this appears to be a major fault....thank you.
&nbsp;Ready made slip rings can be found on&nbsp;eEbay. Evidently in&nbsp;practice&nbsp;the solution is simple. Many let the wires hang down the center of the mast/tower at the point the&nbsp;turbine&nbsp;turns to face the wind. At the bottom they have away to unplug the wires. As needed&nbsp;they&nbsp;simply unplug to allow the wires to untwist&nbsp;themselves.
what you might try doing to rectify this problem if it does indeed become a problem is to make and mount 2 pvc disks with &nbsp;with 2 metal tracks embedded in one and wire brushes on the other one. basically 1 brush contacts each track, that would give you positive and negative without the need for a solid connection wire which would allow for any number of 360 degree rotations without any possibility of wire twist. The only concern would be how to weather proof it to prevent a short circuit in the event of rain.
Often what you are describing isn't much of a problem, I've had several turbines up for years at a time and they very rarely spin 360 degrees. When they do, they don't spin around than once, and odds are it will spin back the other way eventually. I've never had one twist enough to be a problem.
nice instructable, but why are you mixing inches with milimeters?
Can I use AC motor like the one that is used by electricfans or ceiling fans?<br />
Some AC motors don't have a permanent magnet in them, so they won't generate electricity if you spin the output shaft on them.<br /> <br /> Though a few types do have a magnet in them and could work, for the most part AC&nbsp;motors won't act as generators.
.<br /> .<br /> <style type="text/css"><![CDATA[P { margin-bottom: 0.08in; } A:link { } ]]></style> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="2">This looks like a great project!</font></font></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="2">If your interested in topics like this feel free to check out my forum on &ldquo;Sustainable Energy&rdquo;</font></font></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.0in;"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="2"><span>At </span></font></font><a href="http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/index.php" rel="nofollow"><font color="#0000ff"><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="2"><span><u>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/index.php<br /> .<br /> ,<br /> </u></span></font></font></font></a><font face="Times New Roman, serif"><font size="2"><span> </span></font></font></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.0in;">&nbsp;</p> <br />
cool :)
How much energy does this model produce?&nbsp; Looking through all my junk, I have all the materials.&nbsp; so I will build this, but I&nbsp;want to know how much energy to expect in a light wind.&nbsp; 10 - 15 mph.&nbsp; Anyone know?<br /> <br />
Why 2 washers on some bolts and one washer on others?&nbsp; I've always believed in using single-coil spring washers (or Nylock nuts) too.<br />
I can't see where you might have posted the amount of energy this produces.&nbsp; I am new to the instructables website.&nbsp; Sorry if I missed it. Thanks.<br /> <br />
Just as a PURE GUESS,it sounds to me like Jimmyz is using a 130v motor rather than a 230v motor! This would require the motor to turn about 1500 rpm to produce over 12v.He might want to check the data plate on his motor.

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