I couldn't pass this up.
You can buy a similar costume online for $100, but where's the fun in that? This only cost around $30. Plus a lot of hours of course, but it was worth it.
(That's me with my best attempt at an unhappy Ralphie-scowl.)
Step 1: In Case You've Been Living Under a Rock...
Step 2: Pattern
But making up patterns isn't what most people would consider fun, so I've included a PDF with scale drawings on graph paper of all the pattern pieces, along with some construction details that might be helpful. You'll still have to lay everything out full scale, but I figured someone who was willing to do the work would find it useful.
The body section is just a big floppy jumpsuit, so I didn't need a terribly precise pattern for it. The hood pattern, however, took a little more effort and required some trial and error before I came up with the right shape.
This pattern is designed for anyone around 6 feet or so, and upwards of 200 pounds. Skinny people can adjust it accordingly. Or eat more.
Step 3: Body and Sleeves
The two body pieces are joined with a seam along the back, down to the crotch.
The two sides of each sleeve are sewed together along the bottom. The half-sewn sleeves are pinned to, and then sewed into the sleeve openings on the body section. (This process is upside down to how most sleeves are attached to shirts.)
A seam is made across the tops of the sleeves and each shoulder.
Step 4: Ears
To increase this effect, I added a pleat down the middle of each ear.
Step 5: Wiring the Ears
About three feet of wire was used for each ear. It was bent in half, inserted into the ears, and lashed in place with waxed dental floss. Hand sewing with waxed dental floss makes things really secure. I'm not sure where I picked this trick up, but I use it a lot.
The two loose ends of wire were wrapped tight with masking tape.
Step 6: Hood, and Attaching Ears to It
When the needle got close to the wires, the machine was hand-turned and the fabric adjusted so the needle went over the wires without hitting them.
The inner hood lining was sewn together and sewn in place, but only along the front of the hood.
Step 7: Ear Support Structure
For the ears to stand up straight, yet still be sturdy and adjustable, I concluded that I needed to make an under-structure to attach them to.
This under-structure was made from stiff cardboard, hanger wire, and masking tape. The wires from the bottom of the ears were bent as needed to keep them upright, and hot glued to the cardboard piece.
Step 8: Hood Padding
The lining was then pulled over the batting/cardboard structure, and the outer hood layer was stitched to the lining along the existing seams. The hood was then closed up with a seam around the bottom.
Step 9: Attach Hood and Zipper, Finish Legs and Sleeves
Legs and sleeves were finished. Elastic was added to the sleeve cuffs.
This photo may give you an idea of the beastly mass of pink fleece I was wrangling at this point.
Step 10: Fluffy White Tail
Step 11: Mittens
Step 12: Slipper Ears
The ears for these were made much like the ears for the hood. These were attached with lots of hot glue.
Step 13: Slipper Covering
The liners were replaced and glued back in with hot glue.
Step 14: Slipper Details