Step 10: Cut out a space for the circuit board.

Place your completed circuit board on top of one of your cardboard squares. Line it up in the centre and cut around it with a scalpel or stanley knife. (see first photo)

Repeat this step for your second piece of cardboard.

one both of them are done, place one ontop of the other and tape together. (see second photo)

Will this decoder work?<br>http://electrontubestore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=68_72_107_51&amp;products_id=146
Yes that one will be fine :)
I've been wanting to try my hand at electronics. This instructable is so well explained and illustrated, and looks fairly simple and inexpensive, plus I love making cards, so I thought this would be a good place to start... However I'm already stumped at step two. The direction to &quot;simply open the hex file in your programming software and burn it to the microcontroller&quot; makes me draw a blank. What is programming software? How can it be burned to a microcontroller? What would be helpful would be a link to different programming software sites (maybe 2 links, one for PCs and one for Macs) so novices like me can go to download programming software, and learn the really basic basics.
Do a quick google PIC programming <br> <br>You will find guides like <br>http://www.mstracey.btinternet.co.uk/pictutorial/picmain.htm <br> <br>You will find the manufacturers website, where you can download the software <br>http://www.microchip.com/ <br> <br>And you will find <br>Compeitor compilers like http://pp06.sourceforge.net/ <br>I am sorry your question was asked a year ago, and nobody responded, INST seems to have a sleeping community.
Thank you!
READ ME!!! &gt;:-O <br>Hi, I wanna know if this is the right micro controller: (just in case) <br>http://www.mcustore.com/gbp/section30/117-pic16f648a-18-pin-microcontroller.html
Yep, that's the one : )
Hi, I really don't know anything about microcontrollers. Does it matter if you have a <br>PIC16F648A-I/P, PIC16F648A-I/SO, or PIC16F648A-I/SS?
Hi, these different part numbers are all the same chip, however just built into a different package. The one I used is the I/P which is the ones with the legs that go through the board and get soldered onto the other side. The other two are smaller surface mount chips which have legs that don't go through the board but are soldered on the same side as the chip.
hey i also have another question is there a way you can send me a preburned micro controller. i know how these work but i dont have the peice that will allow me to connect to my computer and burnit on to the controller.I will pay with my paypal/creditcard if needed. Cheers (im from america lol )
hey i was wondering how deep you cut these and also how do you know when you make these cuts well enough
You just need to cut them so that the copper is removed, leaving just a channel of pcb.<br><br>To make sure, you can cut them with a stanley knife and then use a flat blade screwdriver (a small one) to make the channel a bit wider.
Oh wow!!! Incredible! I'll never be able to make this but oh well- I may try sometime :D<br>Oh and btw your accent is awesome ^-^
and how do you solder so well?
Hi thanks for the ible. I plan on making this, but i am a noob at soldering, but i do have some experience with electronics. I was wondering, where can i get the programming software for the hex file? I already downloaded it to see if i had it already but i dont. Also, I have a mac.<br><br>Thanks
This looks like a good project, but instead of using stripboard, I would like to make a PCB. Could you check my PCB design to make sure the pins are all connected correctly? Please note some of the resistors are simply wire links (R12-16). I am also having a lot of trouble programming the pic, I have the correct pic chip, but my pic programmer doesn't seem to like the hex file your provided. Would it be possible to send me a per-programmed pic (I can pay for the cost of the pic, the shipping, and your time), or I could send you my pic to program if it would be cheaper/easier.
Hi,<br><br>have you got your pic in the circuit when you try and program it? What programmer are you using?<br><br>Also, why are you not using resistors with your LED's? If you don't use resistors, the internal resistance of the chips will need to drop the rest of the voltage (which increases the chips power consumption) which will most probably burn it out pretty quickly.<br><br>As for the PCB design, it looks very different from the schematic. Did you get the schematic from here:<br><br>http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/F9A/MK4K/G3KY0ONB/F9AMK4KG3KY0ONB.png
I haven't made the circuit yet as I want to develop a PCB for it. My programmer doesn't like the hex file you provided, and it would be a lot easier for me if I could pay you could send me a pre-programmed pic. I did use your schematic as reference, but I had to put the LED display together myself from various datasheets as the pins on your schematic aren't labeled. Also, I do have 150 ohm resistors on pins 24, 21, 18, 15, 1, 4, 7, 10, and 11, but I am not sure whether they are in the right place or not, I was hoping you would check this for me.
Sorry, I didn't realize how small that image was. Here is is in a higher resolution.
were can i buy these supplys
You can get basically all of these components from any decent electronics store. I mainly buy my components online through ebay. If you buy in bulk, you can get some fantastic bargains!
in the 5 picture where did the other 1 (150) ohm resistor and 2 (10k) resistor go
The circuit you see here is just to show you the basic theory behind drawing a graphic on an LED matrix. The other 150 ohm resistor is used to display 'Santa' on the screen. The two 10k resistors are for the two push buttons. For more info on how the push buttons and 10k resistors work (and why we need the resistors) you can check out tutorial 4 on my electronics website.<br><br>www.bradsprojects.com then click on pic tutorials and then click on tutorial 4
I noticed that you added a small connector piece. is that required.Whats it for
That connector is where the pickit programmer plugs into in order to upload the code to the microcontroller. Some people have different programmers where you plug the microcontroller into the programmer to upload the code, before soldering it into the board.
Are you a professional writer looking for a freelance writing job? Do you love writing and want to get paid for what you like? To achieve this, join our experienced writers&rsquo; team and make money with your writing. <a href="http://www.prlog.org/10010463-freelance-writing-job-provided-by-essaywriters-net.html" rel="nofollow">Essaywriters Scam</a>
&nbsp;how do you download the archive into the microcontroler ,but w<br /> how do you connect it
I have included 5 little pads on the circuit board so that you can connect the pickit2 programmer to it. then you just click 'program in the pickit2 software and it's done = )<br />
a video wold be nice,cool project!
I will have a video uploaded today = )<br />
cool :-)
&nbsp;Zaphod's just this guy, you know?
There appears to be many kinds of 16f648a PICs, Do I want the 18 pin PIC16F648A-I/P or the 18 pin PIC16F648A-I/SO?<br /> Thanks.<br />
Just get the I/P<br /> <br /> They are all the same chip, just different packaging (through hole DIP / Surface mount etc...)<br />
Thanks!<br />
That hex file dosent seem to work with my programmer. It says it needs to be INH8XM format. It displays everything right except the last collumn of characters is replaced by random (non-hex) ones suggesting there is a problem with the file, and it shows up fine in notepad. So how can I convert it to INH8XM format or could you send me another version that is in that format? Thanks!
This is a really great Instructable.&nbsp; Is there a reason you're reluctant to release the source code?&nbsp; That would make it tons easier to adapt it to many different microcontrollers and alternative hardware.&nbsp; It seems a shame to make such an awesome and detailed Instructable and leave out the source code.&nbsp; If it's too much trouble to convert it to another microcontroller then let that be our problem.&nbsp; We're not asking for a conversion, we're only asking for the original code.&nbsp; It certainly wouldn't take anything away from your excellent Instructable and would, in my opinion, make it even better because we could more easily adapt it to our projects.<br /> <br /> Would you mind posting the source code?<br /> <br /> Please?!?!<br />
Hi, sorry for the late reply.<br /> <br /> This game is actually just a copy of the great race (a game I came up with a few years ago)<br /> <br /> you can check out all the details of that including source code on my electronics site:<br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.bradsprojects.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;task=category&amp;sectionid=4&amp;id=17&amp;Itemid=32" rel="nofollow">www.bradsprojects.com/index.php</a><br />
Hey thanks!!&nbsp; I can't believe you wrote it in assembly.&nbsp; You're a mad man.&nbsp; Great website too.<br /> <br /> And by the way, responding to a comment in less than 72 hours is a pretty friggin' prompt response in my opinion.&nbsp; Thanks again.<br /> <br /> Oh, and might I&nbsp;suggest putting a link to your website in the body of the Instructable.&nbsp; Maybe say something like &quot;you can find this game and others like it at <a href="http://redirectingat.com/?id=487X782&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bradsprojects.com%2Findex.php%3Foption%3Dcom_content%26task%3Dcategory%26sectionid%3D4%26id%3D17%26Itemid%3D32" rel="nofollow">www.bradsprojects.com/index.php</a>&quot;&nbsp; <br />
you should use the last green line too ...<br />
This looks like a really good project, I just went out and bought all the components except the PIC and the 7442, and I couldnt find one, so would this one be ok? <a href="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&amp;R=5190221" rel="nofollow">http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&amp;R=5190221</a>&nbsp;and if not, could you suggest an alternative or a link to somewhere I can buy one (preferably in the UK) Thanks!
Hi Andy,<br /> <br /> I had a look at the datasheet for the part number you were looking at (for the decoder) but unfortunately it doesnt have inverted outputs. If you did want to use that particular chip then you would either need to add an inverter to each of the eight outputs that you will use or you would have the outputs drive a transistor which would then goto the LED cathodes.<br /> <br /> An alternate part you could also use is the 74138 this is a 1 of 8 decoder that would work just as well as the 1 of 10 decoder. (because the circuit only uses 8 anyway)<br /> <br /> Let me know how you go.<br />
Thanks for the help, I found a 74HC138 here: <a href="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&amp;R=1696084" rel="nofollow">http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&amp;R=1696084</a>&nbsp;but it says 3-8 line decoder, although it is inverting. Is this the right IC and would I have to modify the circuit at all? Thanks again for your help, ill be sure to post pictures of my version when ive finnished it.
Yep that one will work just fine. 3 to 8 line decoder just means that it has three inputs (from 000 to 111) this gives you eight possible combinations.<br /> <br /> You then have eight outputs, all of which will be a logic 1 (high) except for the one that corresponds to the combination of 1's and 0's on the input.<br /> <br /> For example, if you put 000 on the input then output 0 would be a logic 0 and all the rest (1,2,3,4,5,6 and 7) would all be logic 1's.<br /> <br /> we use this logic 0 to ground one column of cathodes at a time.<br /> <br /> <br /> you will also notice on the 74138 that there are three 'enable' lines. two of which are inverted. They really are only there if you are going to use multiple 74138 chips. All you need to do is ground the two inverted 'enable inputs' and connect the non-inverted 'enable' input to Vcc. This will 'activate' the chip.<br />
Is it possible to translate the source code to program an AVR microcontroler ???
<p>This would work just fine with an AVR microcontroller, unfortunately I havn't really dealt with them at all so I'm not sure how to convert it.</p>
Well, If you send me the source code I can try <br /> Regards
&uuml;ber cool project!<br /> <br /> What is the best frequency for the screen? (How long time should one column be activated before moving on to the next?)<br />
That's the beauty part with these screens, it is a very simple matter of trial and error. I don't even know how long it stays on for before moving on, I just loaded up a delay with a number and it works quite good.<br /> <br /> As you progress in this game, it gets faster, so all i do there is decrement the variable which deterimines how many times to display one frame before moving onto the next frame. (the more times you display one frame in the animation, then the slower the animation.)<br /> <br /> But back to the point - if you try one certain variable and the screen flickers a bit, then decrease that variable. If you try it again and it is a little dim but not flickering, then you can try increasing the variable. (the faster you scroll through them - the dimmer it gets)
You can make MONEY with this...<br /> <br /> Good Job!<br />

About This Instructable


198 favorites


More by bradsprojects: The Four Player Coffee Table Pong Video Game. The 'One Chip Spinning RGB POV Display' with conversion software. Christmas card with inbuilt retro video game for under $10
Add instructable to: