- An old battery powered amp that you want to increase the coolness factor on. I choose an older model Fender Mini Tone-Master.
- An old cigar box that you can fit the components into.
- 9 volt battery holder clips (Radio Shack part #270-326) $1.19
- Depending on the type of amp you choose, you may need a 9 volt snap connector. Radio Shack part #270-324 These are $2.99 for a 5 pack. If you need one, you'll only need 1, but the 5 pack is the only way The Shack sells them now. You could probably find similar parts online, but my local Shack was only a mile away and didn't have to pay shipping.
- Hot glue gun
- Jig saw with fine tooth blade and a drill
Step 1: Determine Battery Connector Type and Opening the Case
After you have determined which version you have, Open the case by removing the case screws. On mine there were five small phillips head screws. You'll need a screwdriver with a narrow shaft and a head that doesn't flare out at the head too much. The screws are about 3/4" deep.
Step 2: Dealing With the Battery Connector
If you have the new style, simply slip the snap on battery connector with wire still attached, out the hole in the end of the battery compartment.
Step 3: Removing the Controls
Use a pair of pliers and remove the nuts holding each control, and the jack, in place.
Step 4: Removing the Components
All the electrical components should now be free of the case. If not, look for screws you may have missed and remove them.
Step 5: Removing the Control Label
Even if you choose not to use the original control label in your build, I would suggest removing it anyway as it makes a perfect template to use for drilling the holes for the controls in your box.
Place it on your box temporarily and trace the locations of the holes. Make sure that the location you choose gives you room for all the components and wires to reach where you want them to go. If you separate them too far, you'll just need to splice in extra wire. This Macanudo box was just the right size. Any smaller and everything would not have fit.
Step 6: Selecting How to Mount the Speakers
For my build, I placed the speaker grill in place on my box and traced around it. Then, I used a straight edge to draw a line 1/4" inside the outline of each of the 4 sides of the grill. Using a jig saw with a very fine plywood blade, a sawed out an opening on the internal (smaller) lines that I had drawn.
Using the correct size drill bits (or ones that are close enough for you to ream the holes bigger), drill the holes for the controls, the jack, and the LED.
Step 7: Marking and Cutting the Holes for the Headphone and AC Adapter Jacks
Step 8: Adding the Internal Components
Start by placing the speaker grill in place outside the box and apply glue around the edges of the grill inside the box. Allow this a few minutes to cool and dry before hot gluing the speakers in place. Be careful to only apply glue to the speaker frame, don't get any on the speaker cones themselves.
Remove any loose paper the sides of the box where anything will be attached.
Secure the headphone/ AC adapter jack in place with hot glue.
Stick the control label in place outside the box, work the controls, jack and LED in place and secure with the nuts you removed earlier.
Attach the 9 volt battery holder with hot glue. They only come in two packs at Radio Shack (part # 270-326), so I attached the extra one to hold a spare battery at the ready. Plus it balanced out the weight of the box.
Step 9: Attach the Battery Connector
The wires on these are small, probably 22-24 gauge. You could solder the wire from the new connector to the power lead wires that you cut earlier, but I used small crimp connectors with electrical tape. tape each crimp connection separately then tape them together. Unless you have an oddball amp or connectors, matching red to red and black to black should work just fine. If it doesn't, reverse them.
Step 10: All Done!
Be creative. My Instructable is just a starting point, make yours into whatever you want.