I never liked electronics. I'm determined to learn about radiant energy and over-unity circuits now, though, and the place to start is the beginning. To get some parts to play with, I am disassembling a computer power supply. This instructable will cover the graceful butchery of the circuit board.
Snipping the wire leads on parts results in short stumps that are hard to work with later, so I decided to unsolder all the parts from the circuit board. Wires from the component parts pass through holes in the circuit board and are soldered to printed circuitry on the back side.
To help facilitate work, I came up with some helpful tools and techniques I would like to share. In this photo, you can see the circuit board being held by a pipe clamp vise adaptor.
Snipping the wire leads on parts results in short stumps that are hard to work with later, so I decided to unsolder all the parts from the circuit board. Wires from the component parts pass through holes in the circuit board and are soldered to printed circuitry on the back side.
To help facilitate work, I came up with some helpful tools and techniques I would like to share. In this photo, you can see the circuit board being held by a pipe clamp vise adaptor.
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Signing UpStep 1: Pipe Clamp Holding Device
The pipe clamp normally uses a piece of 3/4" iron water pipe, threaded at the end attaching to the crank. Since I had no iron pipe, I used 3/4" PVC pipe, heating the end to soften it, and then pushing and turning as it self-threaded into the crank unit.
The pipe goes into a PVC vise adapter for holding pipe, and can rotate on that axis for easy access to either side of the circuit board. To make a similar adapter, see my instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-VISE-ADAPTER-for-holding-pipe
Rubber floor mat pads are Gorilla glued to the clamps jaws to firmly, but gently hold the circuit board by the edges. The circuit board wouldn't fit directly into my vise, but a pipe clamp can be big enough to handle anything.
The pipe goes into a PVC vise adapter for holding pipe, and can rotate on that axis for easy access to either side of the circuit board. To make a similar adapter, see my instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-VISE-ADAPTER-for-holding-pipe
Rubber floor mat pads are Gorilla glued to the clamps jaws to firmly, but gently hold the circuit board by the edges. The circuit board wouldn't fit directly into my vise, but a pipe clamp can be big enough to handle anything.
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You have two viable options open to you. One is to use some sort of a blowtorch to carefully evenly heat the substrate material to release the components. The other is the method I employ, it is a bit more temperature controlled by its nature. I use what is called a solder pot bath to remove components from PCBs.
I pull more parts with it in an hour than the most dedicated idiot could manage in a lifetime with a soldering iron.
I'm not going to believe in over unity power generation because it goes against the second law of thermodynamics. I do believe in incompetent boobs improperly performing experiments and their subsequent erroneous results though.
Here is one for you to Google at your leisure:
TANSTAAFL
You might enjoy this video (part 1 of 2).
I didn't believe either, for the same reason, for a long time. The energy source seems to be in the time dimension, related to dark energy and quantum physics. Anyway, this video is from a physics professor with access to all the right equipment and his circuit does 8 times over unity.
What is the photo you attached of?
It always pays to test used parts before you commit to using them in a project. That increases confidence, and saves time troubleshooting entire circuits later.
I bought a commercial solder pot but I'm sure someone handy could make one. It is just a metal cup filled with lead solder, and a heating element under it. I'm sure something can be made for a reasonable cost.
My idea of porn.
As far as testing parts goes get the datasheet for your part in question and towards the back of them there usually is a basic test circuit that was used to write the parts specifications with. What you want to do is build the simplest circuit possible with whatever component and just make sure it does what it is supposed to do. If it works it works.
If it doesn't take a heavy pair of diagonal cutters and break it. You don't want to be testing that junk part again! Plus it is sort of cool to look inside some parts.
It takes some practice to glean the actual industry part name from some house part numbers but after a while you get familiar with the systems, what prefixes and suffixes to drop etc.
But yes once you manage to distill the actual industry part number from the house number along with some educated guessing you can find the data sheets by doing web searches for them.
Get the data sheet, compare it to the part you have in front of you, and that should be the final determining factor on whether you were successful in your decrypting of the device.
I cracked one yesterday for someone in a forum here:
http://www.instructables.com/community/chip-with-four-legs/
It isn't a great example because the house number has nothing to do with the industry number but it gives you some idea of what it takes and what can be had.
Much like a good detective story I enjoy the thrill of the chase. Happy hunting!