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For this instructable, I will show you how to increase the amount of produce you can grow at your home for free.
Cloning may sound like a very complicated scientific process, but for the at-home gardener it is a very simple thing that anyone can do.
Cloning may sound like a very complicated scientific process, but for the at-home gardener it is a very simple thing that anyone can do.
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Signing UpStep 1Materials needed
The actual list of items needed to clone a plant is very short and anyone who gardens will have no problem at all locating these items around the house.
Absolute must haves:
A semi-mature tomato (Donor or mother plant) A plant with good growth and that has not been diseased or stressed.
A container or containers around 2 inches deep (I used one of my wife baking dishes, Ha ha)
Razor knife
Potting soil
Water
Other optional items :
Rooting compound (can be found @ Wal-mart for 6 dollars[U.S.])
Humidity dome
Seed heat mat
I realize that most gardeners probably have the humidity dome and seed mat, but I was aiming this instructable for the weekend warrior gardener in hopes of expanding minds and showing how simple and cost effective this act of cloning can be. The optional items will greatly speed up the cloning process BUT are not required to complete this process.
Absolute must haves:
A semi-mature tomato (Donor or mother plant) A plant with good growth and that has not been diseased or stressed.
A container or containers around 2 inches deep (I used one of my wife baking dishes, Ha ha)
Razor knife
Potting soil
Water
Other optional items :
Rooting compound (can be found @ Wal-mart for 6 dollars[U.S.])
Humidity dome
Seed heat mat
I realize that most gardeners probably have the humidity dome and seed mat, but I was aiming this instructable for the weekend warrior gardener in hopes of expanding minds and showing how simple and cost effective this act of cloning can be. The optional items will greatly speed up the cloning process BUT are not required to complete this process.
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Gogutu, do you have someone who can translate to English?
I am beginning to play with cloning, but I'm playing with OTC varieties, and not the expensive rootstock, such as maxifort or beaufort. This is also for my own personal garden, and not a commercial endeavour. If I get successful with my grafting, I might play with grafting clones myself.
I would assume that tomato plants (right now ,being late May ) are too small to take cuttings from. Does anyone know if you could take a cutting from below? i have little flowers growing on my tomato plants but afraid to cut off the top, even if it grows roots, will it damage the flowers in any way?
This is a good Instructable tonysoprano! Hopefully it will encourage more people to get into propagation. Your "Selecting starts from the bottom stems of the plant have a better chance of producing roots because of increase in natural rooting hormone in the plant" is correct, but also because the shoots further away from the root/stem interface are more "adult" (less old, but more "adult") and contain more auxins - "An important principle of plant organization based upon auxin distribution is apical dominance, which means that the auxin produced by the apical bud (or growing tip) diffuses downwards and inhibits the development of ulterior lateral bud growth, which would otherwise compete with the apical tip for light and nutrients. Removing the apical tip and its suppressive hormone allows the lower dormant lateral buds to develop, and the buds between the leaf stalk and stem produce new shoots which compete to become the lead growth. This behavior is used in pruning by horticulturists." (Wikipedia); ironically auxin is also used as a rooting hormone! Plants: go figure.
If I can find the photos, I'll do an instructable on propagation using leaf base buds based on a potato propagation project from my B. Hort (Tech) (Hons) honours year - I grew thousands of plants from just two different tubers!
Finton, your input and knowledge are greatly appreciated!
Cheers,Kiwi
after taking the cutting and doing it in grow hormone and putting it in your soil (best 50/50 sand and peat mos ) place the container in a clear plastic bag .
Put some sticks on the side to support the bag and tie the bag close and leave for two weeks in a light but not in the sun place make sure the soil is well watered but not to wet.
no need to water them at all.
also cut half the leaves so there is less leaves to feed.
Some plants are hard to do but I know another way and will post that later.
Hope you have lots of fun doing it.
There are more way's then one to skin a cat lol
Sorry for the late reply was not aware of it it was the first time i ever posted anything.
I tried your method. It looks like it worked. No leaves yet but it looks like it has buds. So easy after everything else I tried didn't work.
Thank you!
Keep in mind that apple trees started from seed rarely produce true to type, unless they are an heirloom variety that has not cross pollinated with any other variety. Most nursery-produced trees will be a good fruit-producing scion grafted onto disease-resistant and/or dwarfing rootstock (do a Google search). If your seedlings grow well in your site, you could always top-graft them with another variety when they're big enough.
I have some apple seedlings growing from broken roots left when I shifted my two grafted apple trees - these will be from the rootstock, so I intend to do just what I suggested above. I have also grafted scions from a old heirloom variety onto the existing trees; the grafts have taken but I've had no fruit yet.
I always taking cutting and expect to lose 10 % by default.
Perhaps some of the rooting hormones are synthetic--that might be cause for worry, but if it is an exact duplicate of rooting hormone (chemistry wise), again, I would not be worried.
How much rooting hormone does it take to cause cancer in some test animal?
How many tomatoes would you have to eat to get an equivalent dose?
Does it build up in your body or is it excreted regularly in some fashion?
What size do you recommend?
On the plant I want to clone, the suckers are growing out exactly in the V between the main stem and a "leaf stem". In your picture, it looks like the sucker is growing from a place an inch or so out on the leaf stem.
Will that happen later on my plant?
Should I wait for that to happen before cutting the sucker?
Wikipedia's Salicylic acid article also says "It plays a role in the resistance to pathogens by inducing the production of pathogenesis-related proteins. It is involved in the systemic acquired resistance (SAR) in which a pathogenic attack on one part of the plant induces resistance in other parts." This might be interesting to research also: infuse willow bark and spray on the veges as a pathogen preventative...?
Anyway. Thanks for posting this!
Any given peanut plant can have quite a long life. Let me explain. After a peanut plant has been growing for some weeks, you will notice that all the stems are rooted here and there into the ground. If you wanted to, you could sever all of them and kill the original plant, and you would have several plants - so okay, even if you don't do that, the plant is constantly creating new root systems, and given time will spread all over your yard, and to whatever extent they remain all interconnected you could say you have only the one plant, but it would also be true to say that the plant has reproduced and turned into many plants. Every one of those new plants will make a cluster of peanuts.
As for groundcover/green manure, you just cain't do no better. With a little practice you will be able to get the peanuts with very little damage to the plants, so that they will continue to live and produce more, if that's what you want to do, but you can also harvest most of the peanuts but leave a few here and there, then till the whole mess under. You have not only tilled in some excellent green manure, but the peanuts will come up again and start the process over again.
I spose I should say here that if the result is a big imbalance in the N-P-K ratio, blooming plants might show some lack of eagerness to bloom. The peanuts keep adding nitrogen, but they aren't adding much phosphorus or potassium. Go to where somebody is trimming banana plants, get the trimmings for potassium, and go to where the tree trimmers are running a chipper, and get some of those tree chips for phosphorus. That chipped tree material is great mulch, lasts longer than some mulches, but also provides some phosphorus as it does slowly decompose. That is exactly the way it happens in nature, therefore it is the right thing to do. We are sometimes wrong, but Mother Nature never is.
1. --< (before the V)
or
2. --- (after the V)
or
3. / \ (the "v" split in two)
Thanks for your help