This has been far from ideal considering the space it takes up in the closet combined with the fact that I have to unclamp the bar to take off a single tie at which time half of the other ties always fall off. Plus, there isn't that much room on the hanger, so it's hard to see what ties I actually have on the hanger bar.
With these issues in mind, I set out to make a new tie rack to more efficiently organize my ties in the small space I have available. This project uses minimal parts, mostly what I had lying around. The new rack has two rows with a raising clamp to keep the ties in place while we are on the road.
Step 1: Parts and Such
4 Dalrods - The length is whatever you need for you project. I was able to cut them in half (only needing 2). I would recommend at least 3/8" or thicker diameter, it will make drilling into the rods a lot easier.
Flat Aluminum Strip - I used about 2' of fairly thin, 3/8" wide pieces I originally got from Lowes. These will form the frame, so use your best judgement on what you need.
L-Shaped Aluminum Strip - I used about 8" of fairly thin, 3/8" wide pieces pieces I originally got from Lowes. These are used to mount the rack to the closet door.
Screws, Bolts, and Nuts - 8 screws to mount the dalrods to the metal frame. enough small nuts and bolts (6 sets) to hold the frame together, 4 or so screws to mount the rack to the closet.
Felt Material - Any sort of felt like material will work, such as velvet. You will need four pieces a few inches in length and as wide as your finished dalrods.
Window Rubber Insulation Strip - In case you don't make the pieces line up perfectly, this can be added to the clamping bars so they are definitely working.
Drill with various sized drill bits
Hand saw (to cut wood and metal)
Hot Glue Gun and Glue
Step 2: Make a Plan
Essentially, the rack is composed of two triangles supporting either end of two dalrods. A second pair of dalrods is then attached to a swivel arm used to hold the ties in place.
Step 3: Measure and Cut
Next, cut the metal pieces. This isn't an exact science, just don't cut off your fingers.
Step 4: Build the Triangles
Next, measure and drill holes in the metal pieces for the screws and bolts. Again, the placement of everything isn't an exact science. You can use my diagram in Step 2 as a guide, but just do what seems right!
Then you can attach the metal pieces to the dalrods. I started with the two flat pieces, adding the L-brackets last. None of these parts need to swivel, so snug them up tight.
Step 5: Add the Clamping Bar
Step 6: Coat the Sharp Edges
Next, I wrapped the edges of the dalrods with a bit of duct tape to prevent them from breaking off of the screws, just in case one of those cracks from bad pilot hole drilling decides to split the wood.
Also at this time, I spray painted all of the metal pieces so they would be a uniform color without blemish. This is optional, but you could have some fun with it.
Step 7: Adding Upholstery
First, measure four pieces of material (or felt, or velvet, or whatever you want) a coupe of inches in length and as wide as your dalrods. Then, fold one edge back and tape it back to itself. This is how you hem material without sewing!
Next, tape the other side of the material to one of the rods such that wrapping the material around the rod will keep the taped areas on the inside of the roll and out of sight. The direction you wrap it doesn't matter much, but I'd suggest lining it up so the edge of the material will not be visible.. it just looks better that way.
Finally, tightly wrap the material around the rod. Then glue the inner side of the duct tape hem to the material/tape underneath it to keep the roll in place. Starting in the middle works well, just keep it tight and uniform.
Do this to all four dalrods.
Step 8: Add a Clamp
Step 9: Mount the Rack
There are really two things to consider here:
- The rack should be as high up on the door as possible to allow plenty of room for ties to hang, while still letting the clamping rods rotate up without hitting the ceiling. This should also put the rack over top of any hanging clothes in the closet. Any lower, and it would hit the clothes in the closet, causing the door to want to pop open from the pressure.
- The rack needs to be in the center of the door width to allow the door to close as the door itself is most likely wider than the closet hole.
Just like with the dalrods, you need to drill pilot holes in the metal and wood. Drill the metal first, then mark the door through the metal holes. Be careful not to drill too deep into the door or you might come out the other side! I recessed my drill bit into the chuck so only what I needed was sticking out. That way, is was impossible to drill through the door because only a small portion of the drill bit was exposed.
With that done, screw the rack into the door.
Step 10: Populate the Rack
I did notice that the ties would fly about as the door was opened/closed, so I added a piece of string across the middle of the door to hold the bottoms of the ties down. This also keeps them from getting shut in the door. I backed out a couple of existing screws in the door (one from the door hinge and one from the door handle) and tied the string around each before screwing them back into the door. Don't make the string too tight or it will crease the ties!
If there is still space between the clamping rods and the ties when you lower the arms, then continue onto the next step. If you measured yours better than I did and the clamping rods work as intended, then congratulations, and enjoy your new space saving tie rack!
Step 11: Filling the Gap
With this strip in place, both clamping rods firmly hold down onto the ties, keeping them from moving about while we are on the road or I am opening the closet door!
Now, you can finally enjoy that extra inch and half of closet space. That, or your wife will instantly fill it with something, as mine did. Either way, you did a fine job...