I decided to cloth cover my cables to make them more comfortable and to match the vintage styled noise sound effect synthesizer I plan to build.
Stackable banana cables are better, but I saved lots of money using non-stacking plugs that I can afford to build some multiples into my synth.
You may be able to adapt this technique to other types of cables.
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Signing UpStep 1Materials
• Shoelace(s) Find a shoelace style you like. I prefer a tighter weave. The laces must be hollow, or have a removable core. Select a lace that will be large enough to hold your wire or cable, but not so big that they are loose I got these at a dollar store. If you select longer laces, you can make more cable(s) for the same price.
• Wire I'm using stranded 16ga wire. Banana cables only use one conductor. If you are adapting this instructable, choose a suitable cable for your needs.
• Banana Plugs These are part number 108-1702-101 from the E. F. Johnson Company. I got them on sale. Select whatever connectors are suitable for your cables.
• Heat Shrink Tubing Two smaller pieces to close the ends of the shoelace onto the wire. I used a 1/2in. length of 1/4in. diameter tubing. Two larger pieces to cover the connector for strain relief (optional). I used 1.5in. lengths of 3/8in. tubing. If you are using thickness of wire and/or connectors, you can select sizes that are appropriate.
Tools
• Scissors to cut shoelaces and heat shrink tubing
• Screwdriver if your connectors use set screws
• Heat source such as lighter to shrink the heatshrink tubing
• Wire strippers / cutters
• Soldering Iron and solder to tin wire ends
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You can filter by shrink ratio, length, color, MFR, material, etc.
For my 3/8in. tubing, I used Allied #689-0392, with 3:1 shrink ratio (sizes are expanded diameter, not recovered diameter.)
But you may want something larger with 4:1 ratio instead. Then you can use it for a wider range size of connectors.
Funny thing is I live 3 or 4 miles from the facility. Sadly I can't buy directly from them and avoid shipping and handling.
You may try to find some form for your order to add "special instructions"
(1) to fold, wrap, or otherwise stuff the tubing into a smaller box to try to save on shipping.
(2) you may also specify that heat shrink tubing does not require bubble wrap.
Best
Alex
I plan to use my patch cables for low-voltage connections with a patchable synthesizer. I also wanted to make it easy for me to get to the set screw if I need to. Eventually, I may circuit-bend something and want the screw exposed for touch contact as well.
If you plan to use your cables for higher voltage or higher current applications, you will want to just add the heat shrink tubing at the last step, and don't poke any holes in it.
@zulfiqaradil - Thanks for pointing this out. It could be a safety issue.
Cheers,
m
Wonderfully constructed Instructable! Steps are clear and pictures are beautiful. I once made a set of USB cables using this type of material I found laying around, but my results were nowhere near the quality of these connectors. Next time I make some, I'll definitely use methods suggested in this Instructable (starting from scratch and using heat shrink tubing) to make my cables.
I have a Victorian magneto-electric "electric shock' machine, although the original wires are braided copper with a white insulating cloth stiched over the top they are in pretty bad condition.
The box is wooden and the insides are brass and felt, I didn't fancy throwing the original wires away and replacing them with rubber insulated ones.
Now I can cover the original wires with gutted paracord and preserve them until you write an instructable on stiching cloth covers.
Thanks
For large projects, shoelace material is available in bulk from places like RW Rope (rwrope.com). It's also available in larger sizes -- I've seen up to 1/2 inch diameter -- which would make it great for antiqued / classic / steampunked power cords and USB cables, and can be ordered in a variety of colors to make it easier to organize cables.
Note that this stuff can be "compressed" like a toy "oriental finger trap" to adjust the diameter for thicker and thinner cables, or -- if you're lucky -- to work it over a connector on cables that can't be easily disassembled. Just serve the ends with a little hot glue or clear acrylic to hold them in place if you can't get shrink tubing in place.
http://www.atkinsandpearce.com/Products_%26_Technology/Cord/ and
http://www.conrad-jarvis.com/bulk.html to name just a few. You might even find something suitable at a local fabric store.
I remember using a pair of three pronged plier type things to stretch rubber sleeves onto cords/cables, rather than using heat-shrink stuff, but I can't find them easily on the net.
This could possibly be used to do many other things - even brake & gear cables on a cycle perhaps if you had fat enough laces?
I've used Xoxide.com before: http://www.xoxide.com/sleevingkits.html
some connectors (like 1/4in. guitar cables) can be removed and re-soldered.
Other cables (VGA, HDMI, SATA, etc.) are usually best made by the factory, so you may need a covering large enough to fit over the connector.
Then you can use large heat shrink tubing to go over the connector, to finish the ends of the cloth covering.
You may be able to use a cord that can expand (something like "climbing rope" or "Para cord", then take out nylon core) to fit over the connection ends on computer equipment, then pull it tight. I don't know how far that'll get you though.
If you tape the wire onto the core, there is a possibility that the tape may be too thick to go through, or the tape may become un-stuck from the wire/core and become stuck inside the cloth covering.
Try it- tell us how it works :)
The black here, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3702/slv-01/FLEXO_PET_14_Nylon_Cable_Sleeve_-_Black_.html?tl=g35c175s360
is sold for .079¢ a foot. So 60" or 5' would cost arounmd 3.95.
You could make a really nice-looking pair of speaker cables this way.
My uncle was a cabinet-maker and he used to say if you have a problem you can't hide, make it a feature.
If you can't run your speaker wires in the wall or hide them, make them gorgeous!