Introduction: Clothes Drying Rack - Old Fashion Design Copy
It bothered me to see the wife having to work so hard to set up a collapsible drying rack to dry her's and the kids swim stuff so I started researching a wall mount setup that would fold flat against the wall. Most designs I found were large lean out designs but I needed something with ends sticking out to hold swim caps open to dry. I came across one old antique design that was just what I needed so I took the idea and updated it to my situation. This was a one day construction and then a couple of days of polyurethane stain coats and I was in business.
Step 1: Supplies
The rack arms are made out of stair rail balusters cut down to fit the base board that keeps everything well attached to the wall. While the base board protects the arms when you swing them back against the wall it also was sized to cross multiple wall studs for a secure base for the arm brackets to connect too. All components were from Lowes.
1 - 24"x10"x3/4" Red Oak Board Pre Cut (Lowes)
5 - Stair Balusters (Lowes) - EverTrue 38" Creative Stain Grade Red Oak Colonial Baluster
Item #: 17036 | Model #: 514138ETOAK
1 - Section of 2" Steel Angle Iron
1 - 3/8"x8" Bolt
2 - 3/8" Steel Washers
2 - 3/8" Steel Lock Washers
2 - 3/8" Nylon Washers
6 - 1/4"x3.5" Lag Screws
2 - 1/4"x1" Lag Screws
8 - 1/4" Steel Washers
1 - Pecan Color Polyurethane Stain
6 - 1/4" Sheetrock Anchors If Needed Due To No Wall Studs To Hit In Your Mount Location.
Step 2: Cut Down Balusters to 24 Inches and Drill Pivot Hole.
I cut the balusters on both ends to get the 24" length needed. I cut non hinged end just where the wood turning created a break that made a "bat" end to hang the clothes on and then cut the other end 24 inches back into the squared area to create a good hinging surface to support the balusters when they are swung out to hold clothes.
I then drilled the 3/8" holes for the balusters to pivot on about 1" from the end.
Step 3: Cut and Drill Steel Angle Iron Brackets
I cut the two, 2" wide, angle iron brackets from the 2" angle iron using a reciprocating saw (Sawsall) with a metal blade.
I then drilled out the 3/8" hole for the pivot bolt and the two 1/4" holes for the wall / base board mounting screws. I used a file to smooth off all the rough edges and then put on two coats of a clear acrylic to seal them up but left them with original color finish. You could paint them to a color of your choice if you want.
I then mounted everything up and secured the mounting brackets to the base plate to make sure everything fit.
The two 3/8" nylon washers go between the top and bottom brackets and the first and last balusters to keep the wood from rubbing the steel brackets.
On the brackets I used a 1/4"x3.5" on the left to sink into the stud in the wall and then used a 1" on the right to screw only into the base board.
Step 4: Finishing and Painting
I took everything back apart and then sanded all the wood down with a fine grain sandpaper and applied two coats of polyurethane stain with light sanding in-between coats. Let it all dry well and then reassemble.
Step 5: Attach to Wall
Re-assemble the rack and then place on wall by sinking the 6, 1/4"x3.5" lag screws into studs or use good sheetrock anchors for attachment.