La semana pasada estaba yo trabajando con mi viejo taladro barato made in China, cuando súbitamente, sin haberlo esforzado más de lo normal, comenzó a fallar, a chisporrotear y a largar una humareda por los agujeros de ventilación. Obviamente, se quemó el motor. No me molestó demasiado porque al fin y al cabo duró casi 8 años, y por el precio que pagué por él, no se puede pedir milagros.
Hoy a la tarde me di una vueltita por Walmart y me compré otro taladro de esos baratos chinos, pero el mandril no es de los que a mí me gustan, de esos que se ajustan a mano sin necesidad de herramienta. No importa –me dije– en casa le pongo el mandril del que se quemó. Efectivamente, así ocurrió, y acá les cuento cómo se hace.
I guess there must be many of you who have a broken or unhelpful drill chuck, and would like to change for another better, but do not know how. That happened to me a few years ago, and found that it is not difficult, you just have to know a little secret.
Last week I was working with my old cheap Chinese drill, when suddenly, without having done more force than usual, it began to fail, to sizzle and emit smoke by ventilation holes. Obviously, the motor burned. Do not bother me too much because after all it lasted nearly 8 years, and for the price I paid for it, you can not ask for miracles.
This afternoon I took a little walk to Walmart and bought another of those cheap Chinese drills, but the chuck is not that I like, those that fit by hand without tools. No matter, I told myself; at home I put the chuck from the burned drill. Indeed, it happened, and here I'll tell you how.
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Signing UpStep 1Quı se necesita (what you need)
First, at least a drill chuck which does not work or is not appropriate. In addition, a chuck who do want to use in its place. Phillips and/or flat screwdriver, rather flat pliers to hold the shaft (must be able to enter in the slot below the chuck), and eventually a vise grip.
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Ahora entiendo por que nunca le pudimos sacar el mandril al taladro del Ale.
Vi tus otros post y te felicito, cada vez queda menos gente que haga "cosas".
Gracias.
Gracias por el comentario.
Ahora entiendo por que nunca le pudimos sacar el mandril al taladro del Ale.
Vi tus otros post y te felicito, cada vez queda menos gente que haga "cosas".
Gracias.
In fact, last time I could not loose it... Maybe I try to do that later using heat.
But warning, Japanese product was so at 1960's, they breaked the market in many categories, and today are respectable.
USA products are very good, but also expensive. Here in Argentina we have all the low quality products that the world manufacture. Example: the only screwdriver tip that I can use is one buyed in Italy, it is hard steel. Those buyed here lasts until the first obstinate screw.
What I mean is that with a Chinese tool you will be able to do many of the things the tool is supposed to do, but not all, or not for the same length of time. I will say that with a Chinese tool you may easily cover 85% or 90% of your needs.
So for most of the time, or for almost all the time, your needs are covered, because the times you will need a better tool are only a small part of the whole. For these things you will not be able to do, you are given the chance to pay much less.
One learns with trial and error. If you have a Chinese drill, dont push it too much, because it will burn. Letting it operate for many minutes and under stress is a way to push it. For your trouble to stop more often and let the tool cool down, you are given the chance to buy a cheap tool, and wait for better days.
But there is also the bad Chinese tool. A Chinese pocket knife I bought, lasted only for playing and cutting just one softdrink can. Then it fall apart.
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Often are confused Taiwanese (almost Chinese) with Chinese. I think Taiwanese products are a little better, I have a very good screwdrivers set since 1970 or so, they are good steel, good plastic, and well shaped. But some months ago I buyed a Chinese drill bits set for masonry, and I had to throw it away.
Sunshiine