just another Project of me. Cold lights or " The Lavendel Cold light Trilogy " . Here I have created three different cold lights with different Colours. Anyone can recreate these lights with a vew Things.

We need:

Some various, Brass Lamp parts

3 pc 300 Watt light bulbs ( larger, smaler, just like you want. Glass bottles or similar )

Fluorescent Powder Like this one

3 pc Test Tubes and Cork Like this one

6 pc UV-Leds and Resistor for 9V

3 pc 9V Battery

3 pc On / Off Switches


Different Acid and Sulfur Liver for Coloring

Thin Cables

Distilled Water


Step 1: The Stand or Housing

First we have to empty the bulbs. It give a lot of instructions here how to empty a lightbulb.

Be careful because the glass can break very quickly. In the second picture you can already see the shelter with the empty bulbs. Now even dye the thread . ( Pic 3 )

Glue an Uv Led in the Stand, directli under the Glas from the Bulb. Also we solder parallel a second Led to the Textilcabel. Make it long enough and you can cut later.

Step 2: Glasholder

Make 3 Glassholders for the Lightbulbs like your Fantasy. I made Spirals.

Cut the Test Tube to a lenght of ~ 10 cm. Dremel and Proxxon help you ;)

Drill a Hole in the Cork for the second UV-Led. ( Pic 2 ) and glue it with Hotglue. At the same time we still manufactures a cap for the test tubes like in the second Picture.

Now we put a on/off Switch in every Device and wire them to the Led´s ( Pic 3 )

Step 3: The Filling

OK, now we experiment in our laboratory.^^

It makes a lot of fun to mix the color.

In these Step--> Use gloves and wear protective eyewear !!!!!

What we have?

Rhodamine B500 !!!!!! Rhodamine B is classified as hazardous under REACH/CLP legislation: Danger

Rhodamine 6G




Acridine Orange

Green Fluorescent Dye

Acridine orange, Bromofluorescein, Fluorescein and Fluorescent green are not classified as hazardous under REACH/CLP legislation


Optical Brightener

Optical Brightener is classified as hazardous under REACH/CLP legislation: Warning


Fill the Test tubes with destilled Water. The Bulbs also.

Please only very , use very small amounts of the Fluorescent Dyes. Rhodamine immediately stained hands.

The imaging is really hard to leave. ( omg, i think on my red Fingers...........°!° )

Step 4: Interim Result

Even without UV-Light :)

Step 5: OK..........

with UV-Light !!!

It creates a beautiful light . Especially in the evenings , it makes for great Ambient.

Coldlights-or " The Lavendel Coldlight Trilogy "

In Hope you have Fun with this !!!

Your leander Lavendel

<p>A fantastic idea! Great job. Greetings from Switzerland!</p>
<p>Many THX !! Greetings back my Friend ;)</p>
<p>might have to find an old lantern to rework for this </p>
<p>So clever! Will have to try and make this one. </p>
<p>Hi, really good looking stuff, thanks. A question: won't those UV LEDs harm the eyes? The other question was about dyes that won't make you grow a tail, but I can see some suggestions already.</p>
<p>actually the uv wavelength is being converted to another non-harmful visible wavelength by secondary emission of the uv primary exciter wavelength. if done correctly, there should be very little or no uv being emitted from the spectroscopic action.</p>
<p>I'm afraid you lost me, I have no clue what the secondary emission of the uv primary exciter is. Are you saying that the UV LEDs do not emit UV light? Or is it that the particular assembly kindly proposed by Leander converts the UVs into a different wavelength?</p>
<p>simply put: the fluorescent material, converts the uv light into a different light. so the uv light is used up, in the conversion process. and any leftover uv, that did not get converted, would be well below any harmful threshold.</p>
Wait so a UV led or blacklight fluorescent bulb can harm the eyes? I didn't know that. There's a Mexican restaurant near me that has UV LEDs on the outside of their building.
<p>well this, depends on the flux density of the uv lights and the distance. i seriously doubt that they are as bright, as the uv light from the sun in the daytime at a distance.</p><p>as you do not want to walk up too close, and stare into them for a prolonged length of time. as with all radiation, time, distance, viewing angle and shielding are always the important factors where the eye is concerned. </p><p>light radiation is inversely proportional, to the square of the distance. at one meter from the point source, will only receive 1/4 of the flux density. so at two meters, you only, receive about 1/4 of the flux density at one meter looking directly at it.</p><p>even the visible colors, of the light spectrum can be harmful if it is intense enough to the human eye. can result in temporary or permanent, blindness. </p><p>lasers are of particular concern in this area. that can result in temporary or permanent, blindness. much more damaging, than any of the common leds to stare directly into. collimated light, does not diminish as easily as point sources with distance.</p><p>the problem with uv is you, cannot see the entire brightness of it. and can only indirectly observe the difference in brightness with a fluorescent material. unlike infra-red where you cannot see the full brightness, but can feel the heat from it.</p><p>currently 1watt, is about the maximum for a single led used for lighting. but most other common use leds, are far less powerful than this.</p>
<p>I need to brush up on my physics, but that makes sense. So they're not the same intensity of radiation as a welding arc, but you should still not stare at them up close. Thank you for the wealth of information! </p>
<p>that is, exactly it.</p><p>fluorescent bulbs, most likely emit far more uv than a single uv led. but the fluorescent coating, on the inside of the bulb converts this to the white visible light spectrum.</p><p>1 watt per square meter for a led, is far cry from the 30 to 50 watts per square meter uv being produced in a fluorescent bulb. without the fluorescent coating, is like a suntan booth.</p><p>welding can produce, well above this to several hundred watts per square meter. depending upon, the amperage setting of the welder. the reason for long sleeve shirts, and welding helmets.</p><p>the sun, is typically 35 to 40 watts average per square meter. and on cloudy days, the uv at about 7 to 8 watts per square meter, can cause a severe sun burn in about an hour or less. going unnoticed unfelt, until after the crispy critter damage is done.</p>
<p>Hi psargaco,</p><p>It is like any other led also . You should not look directly into it .On the other side are the led&acute;s built in the housing and directly under the Bulb so that you can not see into it. the colors are all harmless. except rhodamine group!! However, it must be remembered that really only smallest quantities are used . greater volumes weaken the luminosity. If you use the rhodamine with caution ---&gt; use- gloves and eye protection , then I think that is ok. You need not necessarily use the rhodamine . Mix the other colors and you'll get great results. :)</p>
Love your work, I have used antifreeze for similar uses, tonic water has a soft glow too.<br>Clear gelatin will hold colored liquids in a stable state too.
<p>THX ;)</p><p>Yes i know. Also going-&gt; Washing Powder and Chinin ( so you say in Tonic Water and Bitter Lemon), Woodchips from Acacia, some Stones like Fluoride and and ....</p>
<p>but not everything, will fluoresce the same color as the material. not sure but i, think they use anthracine as one of the powders in fluorescent bulbs. and even the blue sky in the day, is the result of fluorescence from mostly gamma rays from the sun being converted to scattered blue light.</p><p>and types a, b, or c uv wavelengths fluoresce different things. but the b and c, need more careful consideration. since they, are a more penetrating and damaging energy wavelength. but the uv leds commercially available are type a wavelength around 492 nanometers.</p>
<p>Oh , here a lot has happened since yesterday. :-)</p><p>@ jimmie.c.boswell</p><p>Yes that's true. Fluorescein is a red powder and dissolved in water , it is green. Rhodamine is shimmering green and in Water its red. You need to get a couple of times to try to achieve the desired color. You need for only a few granules . 3-4 pc like grain of sand. Too much of the color makes the mixture become too dark and the uv activity decreases.</p>
<p>yes but with the highlighters, the pigment color with the uv dye glows the same color. and yes oversaturation, should be avoided.</p>
Highlighters contain fluorescent dye that's non-toxic
<p>How much fluorescent dye can you take out of a highlighter? Using the kind of volume in this instructable as a reference how many highlighters would we need?</p>
<p>well for the test tube, you probably would not need more than one highlighter. and for the rest of the assembly probably two or three of the same color.</p><p>and you, might want to do the mixing with the water using the uv led that your going to use. and use a shield, to block the uv light from direct encounter with your eyes.</p><p>since once you reach saturation, where all the uv light is converted. adding more fluorescent dye, will not make it glow brighter.</p><p>and you, could like try to write you name or design with a highlighter on the outside of the glass to see if it glows. as a check to detect how much scattered, uv light might be escaping. but if any should be fairly diffuse, and not concentrated uv.</p>
<p>I would just buy a 4 or 5 variety pack of highlighters for this project. You could take the highlighter core and squeeze what you can out into the bulb, then run water through it to fill the rest of the bulb. When I was in college we used to take liquor bottles and fill them with highlighter liquid, then put a black light behind them to make them glow. </p>
<p>well actually it contains pigment and fluorescent dye, that glows the same color as the pigment resulting in the surreal effect. since the fluorescent dye, actually glows brighter than the colored pigment.</p>
<p>What kind of clear gelatin are you talking about and won't it rot after a while?</p>
Very cool! You can break open highlighters and get the fluorescent dye that way. Remember to dremel cut the glass under water or at least with a respirator!
<p>if you put a light bulb under water, you are increasing the pressure on the outside of the evacuated incandescent bulb. with the water pressure adding to the atmospheric pressure and it, would be more likely to implode. some kind of soft, insulating material surrounding it would be a better safety precaution. to prevent cutting yourself on sharp edges, and containing shards of glass escaping.</p><p>and also air rushing into, the evacuated bulb too quickly could cause the bulb to break. this is why you, work on the small end to prevent air to rush in at a high velocity.</p><p>and a face shield would be recommended, rather than a respirator for a incandescent bulb. which has, no toxic chemicals or gasses and a hard vacuum. </p><p>fluorescent bulbs, are a totally different story containing toxic materials especially mercury. and for them would suggest, a totally isolated glove box. since you do not even want, these chemicals to contaminate your clothes, hair, body, room, and hands.</p><p>as a retired materials scientist, i am very much aware of many - many toxic materials. but cannot say, i know them all. and so would research any new material, before doing any work with it.</p>
<p>I didn't think about the vacuum in the bulb, I was thinking more about cutting the test tubes with a dremel. The dust is basically like asbestos to your lungs. I'm a glassblower and I know some people who grind glass with a dremel-like tool, (I think its a Foredom), and they do it with the glass in a tupperware bin of water. </p>
<p>@ man_thas_cool</p><p>I carve the test tube with the dremel only once around and then break them off. You can also use this small file that exist in the ambulance . It carves so that the ampoule from splashing on to break it then. In any case one should always wear gloves, eye protection and a dust mask !</p>
<p>I didn't think about the vacuum in the bulb, I was thinking more about cutting the test tubes with a dremel. The dust is basically like asbestos to your lungs. I'm a glassblower and I know some people who grind glass with a dremel-like tool, (I think its a Foredom), and they do it with the glass in a tupperware bin of water. </p>
<p>yes silicon dioxide particles or fumes in the lungs, results in what is known as silicosis. thanks for reminding me, that i did have a fume hood for the laser welding of glass plates for this reason. since the 10micron laser was powerful enough to vaporize borosilicate glass and firebrick. and it, could still make a really deep hole in the ground.</p>
<p>yes silicon dioxide particles or fumes in the lungs, results in what is known as silicosis. thanks for reminding me, that i did have a fume hood for the laser welding of glass plates for this reason. since the 10micron laser was powerful enough to vaporize borosilicate glass and firebrick. and it, could still make a really deep hole in the ground.</p>
<p>Wonderful! Please, could you post a source for your brass lamp parts? What you use are unlike the few I can find here in Texas without buying original (expensive) antique parts. Fascinated by SteamPunk, you appear to be a master. </p>
<p>UnclTodd:</p><p>try this link for lamp parts. New, not too expensive, lots of variety.</p><p>https://issuu.com/lamparts/docs/<strong>adl</strong>_2015_catalog_the_book1</p>
TY! :-)
<p>Very nice!</p><p><strong>TIP:</strong> If you highlight your link... you can make it clickable like this...</p><p><a href="https://issuu.com/lamparts/docs/adl_2015_catalog_the_book1" rel="nofollow">https://issuu.com/lamparts/docs/adl_2015_catalog_the_book1</a></p>
<p>@UnclTodd</p><p>These Brass Parts i found on Flea market ( In German &quot; Flohmarkt&quot;), bulky waste or Ebay. Some of my Parts are more then 100 Years old ;)</p>
<p>I'd love to try making one of these, but I can't save the PDF files anymore since Instructables decided to make this a &quot;Pro feature&quot;. I can't sit at my desktop PC because it's not near my work bench, and I'm refuse to buy a tablet just to view Instructables. Sorry.</p>
Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
How did you wire up the LEDs and supply power to them?
<p>Did you add fluorescent to the water in the bulb as well? </p>
<p>Yes !</p>
<p>i dont bilive this</p>
Wow nice build - I am a blokey bloke, happy with functional items but these really caught my eye, would happily buy one of these in a shop for myself.<br>Liked these so much I have posted them as a COOL BUILD on the F/B page PROTO - TYPE - CHAT , it would be great if ya would pop over some time and tell a little bit more about yourself and some of your up n coming projects, or fave oldies perhaps.
<p>Wow! VERY good job, artistic!</p><p>Can you give a link for instructions on how to eviscerate the light bulbs?</p><p>I will make one for my daughter, she likes steampunk and so do I!</p>
<p>@strider98107</p><p>maybe this? </p><p>https://www.instructables.com/id/Lightbulb-greenhouse/</p>
<p>I used Dremel, Proxxon and a Screwdriver to break the inner Glas. it is even not so hard . you must only take care that does not break the bulb . So slowly and carefully , and above all : wear gloves and eye protection</p>
<p>Pretty COOL !</p>
<p>great! This will be my next project. you used two UV LEDs per lamp?</p>
<p>@ perea</p><p>Yes ! One direct under the Light bulb and one in the Test tubes = 2 per Lamp ! ;-)</p><p>You can try it with 2 Led under the Bulbs. Perhaps it is even brighter.</p>
<p>This looks very interesant . thank you for sharing</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: Hi, i am a Steampunk Artist from Germany. You have Questions? Write me, check out my Homepage or meet me at Facebook.I look forward ... More »
More by Leander Lavendel:"The Time Cup" - A Steampunk Timer/Clock with Westminster Sound The Pillars of Time - A Steampunk Nixie Clock  Cold lights - or " The Lavendel Cold Light Trilogy " 
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