Step 2Parts List
IC's:
1 - ATMega168 (DIP28 through-hole package)
1 - MAX232 or equivalent (DIP16 through-hole package)
IC sockets:
1 - DIP28 socket
1 - DIP16 socket
Transistors:
1 - PNP, I used D1616 (NPN) and B1116 (PNP) transistors, they're capable of 1A current
1 - NPN If you use any other transistors, they MUST BE ECB (where base is on the end, not the middle). This is different from most other transistors I've seen and didn't notice until I tested them after I ordered them. They were cheap though so w/e.
Here is where I ordered them:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/KSD1616YBU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuCl5o%252b%2fAuPoF6bPDHyecV%252bopNRXL9NXYU%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/KSB1116AGBU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuCl5o%252b%2fAuPoF6bPDHyecV%252bD5J9z1SsUW0%3d
Capacitors:
5 - 1.0 uF capacitors, I just used some little blue ones, they're either ceramic or similar, not electrolytic.
Resistors:
3 - 1KOhm, 1/4 watt (though you could get by with 1/8 watt easily)
2 - 10KOhm, 1/4 watt (also could use 1/8 watt)
12 - 300 Ohm, 1/4 watt (might be able to use 1/8 watt, these handle the LED current)
LED's:
4 - 5mm, Common Cathode RGB LED's - I used clear (not diffused) ones and diffused them with sandpaper. I think regular diffused ones would probably be "too diffused" and be a bit dim. I got a 50 pack of these RGB LED's on eBay from China, was only $15 shipped, compare to Mouser's $2.00 per single LED before shipping.
Connectors:
I used 0.1" (2.54mm) breakaway pin headers for all my connections. To connect to them, I got a 32-pin rectangular connector that fits 0.1" pin headers and then cut it into pieces. I got one that was through hole so it had pins that were easy to solder to.
PCB:
Copper-clad, single sided PCB that is at least probably 4"x2". I used a 6x6" and there's room to make at least 2 more.
Printer:
A laser printer to print the PCB design, just any old laser printer should work.
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