Instructables
***DISCLAIMER: Some of this information could be better or is inaccurate.  Specifically how big of a battery you need.  I plan on making a new tutorial eventually, but for the most part this tutorial is accurate.***

Have you ever wanted to build a combat robot (battlebot), but gave up because you didn’t know where to start? Well, hopefully this tutorial/instructable will help. I condensed a lot of information down into a step by step process, taking out most of the stuff you really don’t need to know, but leaving the crucial information. This tutorial is focused on the insect weight robots (75grams to 6 pounds), because the majority of competitions held are for insect weight robots, and they are the least expensive.

Throughout this tutorial I will be putting a robot together for demonstration. I used wood for a material,and you shouldn't.  The reason why I used wood, was because I was just putting the robot together for this tutorial, and I am never going to compete with it.  In fact I already threw it away, because it was a mix-match of a bunch of different ways to do things.

 
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Step 1: Weight Classes

Picture of Weight Classes
Before you do anything else, you have to pick a weight class. The weight constraint helps determine which parts are needed.

Insect Weight class:
• 75g Fleaweight (not common)
• 150g Fairyweight (5.3oz)
• 1lb Antweight
• 1kg Kilobot (Canada Only)
• 3lb Beetleweight
• 6lb Mantisweight (not common)

I suggest building an antweight or a beetleweight as a first robot, because you don’t have to be as concerned about weight as with lighter robots. It is less expensive to build a antweight, but you will find it easier to stay under the 3 pound limit. Also, beetleweights are more common than antweights, but any competition that has beetleweights will have antweights, and vice-versa. So, it is really up to you, just pick a weight class and go with it, you can always build another robot for a different weight class.

shadow812001 month ago

what would you say are the average dimensions of a beetle weight robot?

bccase169 months ago

what did you make your drum out of? what would be a good weight for a drum in the beetleweight class?

Fragmaster9 months ago

Hi Jared

Can you suggest an ESC for this weapon motor?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__39038__...

Since the motor will be driving a weapon with far too much angular momentum, I need it to be able to coast to a stop. The 30A ESC that I already bought occasionally makes weird sounds and stops responding if I let go of the stick and let it spin down. It works fine if I program it to enable braking, but that just won't be feasible when I attach the weapon to it. Here's the ESC that I bought:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__30931__...

JaredsProjects (author)  Fragmaster9 months ago

The ESC you have should work when braking is disabled. It's hard to tell exactly what the problem is without being able to see it. If you could post a video to youtube and then send me the link I'd be able to help you more.

I can't post a video until this weekend since I don't have it with me at the moment. Maybe it's just a defective ESC. I bought another one at the same time, which burnt up. So perhaps they are just especially poor quality.

Here's an animation of what the final product is going to look like. (SolidWorks is awesome)

kooljo1 year ago
hi I am just a beginner. i am wondering what type of battle bot i should start out with. thank you
JaredsProjects (author)  kooljo1 year ago
I recommend building a wedge as your first robot because they are easier to build. I now well antweight kits that are great for beginners if you are interested in those. They are available at http://www.titantechindustries.com/
thank you im more interested in building my battlebot from scrach instead of a kit but i will check kits out to. thanks again
JaredsProjects (author)  kooljo1 year ago
I can understand that, building from scratch is very rewarding. If you build your first robot from scratch I recommend mainly focus on just getting it to function. It may not do great at a competition, but just taking a functional robot to a competition is a great place to start. You'll learn a lot in the building process and at the event that you can use on a second version. My first robot (the one in the main picture) was actually kind of terrible. I did a lot of things wrong, but just by taking it to a competition I learned a ton. Even though it wasn't a good robot it somehow managed to get 3rd place, which is ridiculous. There were a lot of other robots at the competition that were better so I just got really lucky.
i am a beginner and want to make a combat robot i like one in the range of 2-10 pounds .Can you give me some suggestions on what type of robot to make
JaredsProjects (author)  gokulsmail4u1 year ago
The best kind of robot to build as your first robot is a wedge, because you don't have to deal with the complications of a weapon. Usually 1lb robots are the easiest to build as your first robot. 3lb robots are also fairly easy because you have more weight to work with.
yvesyuzo1 year ago
Hi,
Do you recommend another motor for fairyweight? a faster one with a shaft large enough to fit finger tech wheels (0.5in or 0.75 inches of Width)

Thank you
JaredsProjects (author)  yvesyuzo1 year ago
Are you building a featherweight (30lb) or fairyweight (150g) robot? For a fairyweight I recommend the new mini sparks that fingertech will be releasing soon. There will likely be several gear ratios to pick from that will determine the speed. The shafts on these motors will likely be 3mm (~1/8") as that is what the size of hubs wheels fingertech makes.

If your original question about motor mounts was about fairyweights rather than featherweights, then absolutely you can use UHMW as a motor mount material. That would likely be my material of choice of a fairyweight motor mount because it is strong enough and very light. In my last reply I said I didn't have much experience with featherweights. However, I am much more experienced with fairyweights as I have built one and I am familiar with the components because they are sold on the websites I frequently by things from for my antweights (1lb).

If this is your first robot I recommend building a fairyweight or an antweight because they are much less expensive and are easier to build than a featherweight.
Im building both!
But Im focus on the fairy now.
I dont have time and I need a fairyweight motor to fit FT wheels.
The 100:1 RMP is to slow and the 30:1 is to short on the shaft, even the lectra wheels wont fit.
Do you think 5mm armor wall's will be fine on combat?
Thank you for the help!
JaredsProjects (author)  yvesyuzo1 year ago
The 30:1 should be fine for the lectra and lite flite wheels if you use a lite flite hub that fingertech sells. The shaft doesn't have to go very far into those because the set screw part is about 1/4" deep. I used some 30:1s with lite flite hubs and they worked fine in my fairyweight.

Depending on the material 5mm should be plenty. My current antweight uses 3mm UHMW in some places. I'm not expecting the 3mm to hold against most weapons though but it should be thick enough to protect the electronics even if the UHMW gets torn up during a hit.
I dindn't knew about that, I though the lite flite hub couldn't support the wheels.
Do you know any material besides titanium, to use on a vertical spiner weapon?
JaredsProjects (author)  yvesyuzo1 year ago
For a 150g 1/8 Ti should be fine. For higher weight classes I recommend heat treated S7. It will hold up well to almost anything.
yvesyuzo1 year ago
Thanks for the answer!!
I have another question, about speed controlers and motors.
If for instance i have a Victor 884 with the Maximum Current of 40A continuous, and use it to control the CIM Motor(12V DC), with a Stall Current of 133A. In the case of conecting a LiPo battery(12v) to control the motor the Esc's will burn? No way I could use this combination?
Btw do you have a active robot for this year??
Thank you
JaredsProjects (author)  yvesyuzo1 year ago
Victor 884's should be able to control a the CIM motor you're talking about, I put the numbers from the motor into this calculator, http://www.architeuthis-dux.org/torquecalc.asp, and it shouldn't get close to stalling. Most of the time motors won't reach their stall current because the wheels will start to spin before then. I only build insect weight robots, so I don't have much experience with what motors people are using for featherweights. People from the RFL Forum or the Facebook group called Robotics Community are more knowledgeable in the higher weight classes than I am. You might want to ask around on those forums to see what parts they use. I do have an active robot. It is an antweight called Guildenstern and I plan to compete with it at the Central Illinois Bot Brawl in April (http://www.buildersdb.com/eventdetail.asp?eventid=363). It's been about a year and a half since my last competition and I've been working on the robot on and off since then. If you have any other questions please ask, I'll do my best to answer them.
yvesyuzo1 year ago
Hi!
Do you think UHMW motor mounts should work fine on Featherweight?
JaredsProjects (author)  yvesyuzo1 year ago
UHMW probably wouldn't be the best material in a featherweight. I recommend aluminum because if you face mount the motor (screw through the mount into the front of the motor) UHMW wouldn't hold up too well if one of the wheels gets hit. Also, if you use a clamp style mount with UHMW in a featherweight the torque the drive motors in that class generate could make the motors spin inside the mounts because UHMW is kind of a slippery material.
ahleagle1 year ago
hello im trying to make a beetle weight bot and I'm trying to figure out what battery to get. the motors im planning on using are the "FingerTech spark 20:1 Gear motor" and im looking at this battery it is a E-Flite 1800mAh 2S 7.4V 20C LiPo Battery, 13AWG EC3. i am also using the smallest sabertooth esc the one rated for 5amp continuous and 10amp max per channel. I would greatly appreciate any feed back you can give on the battery subject. Is it a good one? will it work? and why are there two leads comming off of the battery?
the links to the above mentioned items are below. thank you for any help you can give in advance.

-ahleagle

motor:
(http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-FT-SPARK16-20.html)

esc:
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-SABER2X5-RC.html

battery:
(http://www.amazon.com/E-Flite-1800mAh-7-4V-Battery-13AWG/dp/B000YUTIVI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1356744401&sr=8-1&keywords=lipo+battery+7.4v+e-flite)
JaredsProjects (author)  ahleagle1 year ago
For the drive motors I recommend that you don't use the gold version of the sparks. They are not intended for combat. Silver spark are much more suitable for combat and are made by the same company. You should be able to find them from robot marketplace. I have never used silver sparks in a beetleweight but I know of other builders who have and they have had success with them. You will probably have to run the motors at 4S (14.8V) for them to work effectively in a beetleweight though. If you don't plan on having a weapon the silver sparks won't be powerful enough for a wedge robot.

For the ESC I recommend fingertech tinyescs. They are the same price (or pretty close) as the sabertooth and are tremendously better. I have used the sabertooth escs before and had a lot of issues with them. If you get the tinyescs you have to buy two, one for each motor.

The battery had two leads because it is Lithium Polymer (LiPo). One lead has the positive and negative (red and black) wires which connect into you robot, these are like the normal terminals on a battery. The other lead has the wires which connect to each individual cell of the battery. This lead is used when charging the battery, because the cells need to be kept within .1V of each other to avoid damage to the battery. LiPo battery chargers take care of keeping the cells within .1V of each other when charging.

That battery is likely too low of voltage if you use silver sparks, and too high of a capacity. I don't know what capacity you need for sure with out knowing weapon specs, drive motor, and tire size. But, 1800mAh is a little overkill unless the weapon draws a tremendous amount.

This will help with motors and battery choice, at least for drive anyway.
http://www.killerbotics.com/kbtools/TentacleTools/
Silver Sparks aren't an option so you will have to input their specs from fingertech's website.
ahleagle1 year ago
What gear ration would you recommend for a Beetleweight in the finger tech spark series silver motors?
black hole2 years ago
Perhaps a good defence against saws might be multiple thin plates that could get torn off without doing major damage to the robot. It also might work against spear bots.(The top layer cracks, then the next... giving you more time)
what about carbon nano-fibers? they are very strong and durable. stronger than diamond, actually.
And they can't be produced in useful quantities yet, or for a reasonable cost.
i have an idea. how about using a mag lev to hold up the upper half? neodymium magnets work best for mag levs.
cmcmillan3 years ago
how would i make a flametrower i mean i know how like all i need is some wd40 and like a candle but i dont know how tospray the wd40 from a good distancent
please i just advise that you keep the wd40 away from flames even read it on the safety label if you really want more info in fact it is a hexagon danger of flammablity and same with pioson
If you watch the UK robot wars, you see that Seargeant Bash has a massive nozzle and underneath it, there is a tiny little flame. Gas goes through the metal tube,and through the metal nozzle, so the flame 'throws' itself. You might find it a bit hard, but that's all my knowlege. Good luck!
JaredsProjects (author)  cmcmillan3 years ago
You could just mount a servo on top of the can of WD-40 to press it down.  It should spray far enough by itself if it has a straw on it.  Also, you would have to use some sort of electric ignition device (way too fancy of a name), like a wire that gets hot or a gas grill sparker, because they wouldn't let you have a candle on your robot.  Most competitions don't let you have flamethrowers at all.
sampson1113 years ago
why dont u hav wheels on the front of the robot i im making one too ill take photos and put them up
JaredsProjects (author)  sampson1113 years ago
The extra wheels would have added too much more weight.  Also two drive motors was enough torque.  In insect weight robots it is much more common to have 2 drive wheels instead of 4.
wat if the front wheels had no drive motor and just rolled when the two back motors were going but even then it would be still to heavy depends on witch weights classes ure in
JaredsProjects (author)  sampson1113 years ago
It is easier to use a caster, or a carriage bolt instead of having two more wheels in the front.  On the robot in most of pictures I used a caster, but it wasn't very durable, so I suggest a carriage bolt.  Also like you said, it does depend on the weight class, it would be much easier to keep a beetleweight at 3 pounds with the extra wheels, than keeping an antweight at 1 pound.

-TTR
sampson1113 years ago
kool thanks that helped alot
sampson1113 years ago
what sort of wheels are u using were can i get them thanks
JaredsProjects (author)  sampson1113 years ago
I used banebots wheels, they come in many different sizes and 3 different hardnesses.  The hubs they make come in a couple of different shaft diameters.  Lite-Flite wheels are much more common though, because they offer a good blend of light-weight and grip.

-TTR
JaredsProjects (author)  JaredsProjects3 years ago
Forgot to mention, both of those types of wheels are available from Robot Market Place.  That is where those links are to.

-TTR
lordi873 years ago
Where do you get your weights from?
I tried google products and ebay but couldn't find them
JaredsProjects (author)  lordi873 years ago
Are you talking about the washers?  Those are available at any hardware store.  I prefer using washers over lead or tungsten weights (like those used in pinewood derby), because you can easily adjust the weight by taking off a few washers, rather than having to cut the lead or tungsten weight.

JaredsProjects (author) 3 years ago
I added a design step and a materials step today.  Also, this instuctable is a finalist in the Epilog Contest.

-AI
It's necessary 2 batteries, onte to the sabertooth, other to de receiver?
And if my receiver have only the labels: Channel 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and Battery?
JaredsProjects (author)  XPProductions3 years ago
The site went down yesterday when I was in the middle of answering your other questions, so I will answer them both here. 

Controlling 4 motors is very similar to controlling 2 motors.  You basically just add one extra motor to each side of the robot, and hook the wires from that motor into the same place the other motor on that side is.  You have to make sure that the motors can handle the stall current from both motors combined though.  If you were using a Sabertooth Speed Controller, you would put the wires from one side of the robot into the "motor 1" screw terminal and the wires from the other side into the "motor 2" screw terminal.  With a setup like this it would use the same amount of channels on the receiver as a 2 motor setup. 

It sounds like in the video that the person is using "tank style steering" where the motors on one side of the robot respond to one stick, and the motors on the other side respond to the other.  The Sabertooth has a feature called mixing.  This allows for controlling the robot with the up/down and left/right movement of on of the sticks, freeing the other stick up.  It is good that the stick on the other side of the radio is freed up, because that stick is good to use for weapon control.  This channel that is freed up is the throttle channel.  It is a stick that will move up and down, but it will stay where you leave it (it doesn't return to the center). 

The radio you found appears to be a good radio.  I have never used it, but it should work.  I don't know about the reliability of that site, but they appear to be the manufacturer of the radio.  

You only need one battery when using a sabertooth.  There is something called a "BEC", which stands for Battery Elimination Circuit.  What this does is provides power to the receiver.  The sabertooth has this feature.  So, you can just hook the battery into the sabertooth, and it will power the receiver for you.  There is a problem with this though, if your weapon speed controller also has a BEC, then it can damage the speed controllers because both are trying to power the receiver.  Fortunately, it is easy to fix this, you can pull out the red wire on the connector that plugs into the receiver.  The part 3 wiring video shows how to do this.  (It's hard to explain in words)

I have never used that receiver before, so I am not sure what the numbers correspond to on the radio.  You would have to look at the manual to determine that.  On spektrum receivers, they are labeled with the words of what usually would go there for a model airplane.  But, it wouldn't be to difficult to determine what responds to what.  You could just plug a servo in, and see what stick/switch on the radio causes it to move.

P.S. Don't be sorry for asking questions, I am happy to answer them.
You are fantastic!
Thank you very much!

=D
JaredsProjects (author)  XPProductions3 years ago
You're welcome!  When you finish you should post pictures of it!

-AI
JaredsProjects (author) 3 years ago
The Robot Market Place will ship internationally, but you can use parts from a RC car.  If you use the radio/receiver from the RC car, you can't have a weapon on your robot, and the robot has to be in a division under 12 pounds.  Some parts are available from RoboCore, which is in located in Brazil.  Also, you probably already know this, but combat robotics is fairly popular in Brazil, in fact one of the most successful teams is from Brazil.  Here are some links to combat robotics located in Brazil:

RioBotz

RoboCore

Both of these are in Portuguese, but since you are from Brazil, I assume that you know Portuguese.  

-AI
Thanks.
If i buy separately a RC Controller for the weapon.

Oh, another question:
Is the gearbox inportant on motors?
Whats the function of them?
JaredsProjects (author)  XPProductions3 years ago
I don't think that you can just use a separate RC radio system for the weapon, because I am pretty sure you can only use one frequency.  To be sure you could ask the people who run the event you are planning on competing in, because the may allow it.  Also something else that I forgot to mention before, is that if you do use a RC radio system, then it has to be one that can change channels.  (At least 2 available channels are required.)  The gearbox is important, because most motors spin very fast but have little torque.  So, a gearbox slow the motor down, and give it more torque.  If a motor with out a gearbox was put on a robot, the robot probably wouldn't move.  

-AI
Sorry, other question...

I see on youtube a tutorial about transmitter and receiver.
In that tutorial they have used 2 motors, the first in Ch1 and the second on channel 2.When the left toogle was actvated, the lef motor rotate, the same with the other side.
But, if my robot have 4 motors?
Is the other channel for buttons to activate the weapons?
You recommend this?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9041

Thanks by the attention!
tobyscool3 years ago
how much do simple of these cost for an ant weight robot??
i was planning on putting a saw and two wheels
JaredsProjects (author)  tobyscool3 years ago

You could make one with a saw for under $200, and for $300 you could use high quality parts.  I am going to add a price step soon, and it will have a section outlining the exact parts to use if you are on a budget, then the parts to use if you can spend a bit more.

-AI
(removed by author or community request)
JaredsProjects (author)  tobyscool3 years ago

An alternative to making a robot that is radio controlled, you can make wired battlebots.  Just use swicthes to run the motors, and use a power supply to power the robots.  These can be built from found parts, or from bought parts for $20-$50 each.  There is no competitions for these, but they are a lot of fun to make with friends. 

-AI
i computed the things i needed its about 160$
JaredsProjects (author)  tobyscool3 years ago

For wired battlebots, or actual ones?
-AI
actual ones
JaredsProjects (author)  tobyscool3 years ago
If you build one, I would really like to see pictures.  If you have any questions while building, just ask.

P.S. Do you know why your comment on Dec 23, 2010. 6:50 AM was removed?  I don't remember what it was said, but I know there was nothing wrong with it.  I didn't remove it.

Best Regards,
AI
I accidentally clicked the delete button:)
tobyscool4 years ago
do they make mini of these like ?
JaredsProjects (author)  tobyscool4 years ago
This instructable it focused on insect weight robots, which are the smallest combat robots. I didn't list the smallest weight class, 35g, because they are extremely uncommon, and don't have a name. If I understand your question correctly,then no there isn't mini versions of these robots, these are already mini versions.
I meant light combat robots ok thanks for the info
It would be cool if you could find a way to make macros for battle techniques, such as turn off blade and drive back a couple feet then turn weapon back on to just get the hell out of there quickly (etc.) I do not know if thats allowed but it seems advantageous, plus you don't mess a move up if a script does it for you.
JaredsProjects (author)  octopuscabbage4 years ago
That is a great Idea. I think that that would be allowed, but if radio signal is lost it would have to know to stop in the middle of the macro.

-AI
That is true, the way i see of doing that is just keep a constant connection and if the connection is lost just have it stop doing things.
JaredsProjects (author)  octopuscabbage4 years ago
There are power switches available that will plug into a RC channel on the receiver, and that could be used to cut power to what ever would run the macro when the radio is shut off, or signal is lost.

-AI
Actually, i was thinking just run the macro as if it were giving a bunch of commands from the remote so as soon as the remote stopped giving signals the macro would essentially end....I think?
JaredsProjects (author)  octopuscabbage4 years ago
I haven't heard of any radios that could run a macro. But a microcontroller like the arduino can send a pwm signal, and could be used to run a macro. The arduino would have to be connected to the receiver to tell it when to run the macro. The rc power switch could be used to shut the arduino off.
Quick question: Could most of these things be salvaged from an old rc toy?
JaredsProjects (author)  octopuscabbage4 years ago
Which parts? Some can be salvaged, but usually they don't work very well. Unless you are trying to build a robot on a very low budget, I suggest investing in one of the radio systems on the basic parts step. The one from FingerTech is around $60.
Any of it. I might just make a test one before i move onto a custom built one haha
JaredsProjects (author)  octopuscabbage4 years ago
Just to test out some ideas, taking an old rc car and modifying it would work. Before I built my robot, I built some robots with friends that were wired directly to a remote, it helped test out weapon designs.
Thats exactly what i was thinking in the first place, i guess i failed to explain myself well enough haha, but yeah i was thinking of using an ardiuno with a couple buttons attached to it to deliver the macros.
JaredsProjects (author)  octopuscabbage4 years ago
Being able to program macros on a radio would be a very nice feature. Not only for robot builders, but for people who airplanes too.
If you decide to do this on your next project i would love to help you with it.
JaredsProjects (author) 4 years ago
Hammers are more effective in higher weight classes, because you have more weight to use for the hammer. In insect weight robots though, they usually aren't all that effective, and are very hard to make. At Mecha-Mayhem they have a hammer in each corner of the arena powered by air. They look like the could do a lot of damage, but most of the antweights, and almost all of the beetleweights could take the hits without getting any damage.

-AI
another thing i saw in the polygon or whatever that had the piece spinning like yours and that you kept getting behind the pieces of armor that stuck out for reasons beyond me but they helped you win the match even damged
JaredsProjects (author)  theexpert4 years ago

It sounds like you are talking about the match against "The Rolling Pin".  I probably wouldn't have won that had I not been able to push it around, and having those pieces sticking out really helped.  The weapon shaft bent about halfway through the match, so it stopped spinning. 

-AI
JaredsProjects (author) 4 years ago
The weapon is made of 6061 (regular) aluminum. The aluminum wasn't quite strong enough though.  It would have been better if it was made of 4041 (high-strength) aluminum or steel.  Since the weapon hadn't been scratched yet in the intro picture it looks like PVC.  Every combat robotics I have heard of allows people of all ages.  Most insect weight contests have no entry fee, or it is very low (<$10).  Look on builders databaseRoboGames even has a division for people under 18.  A coil-gun would not be allowed, because it would fall under the "no projectiles" rule.  When you think about it this rule is necessary, so that no one puts a gun on their robot.  Which would be almost indefensible (in light robots) and very dangerous.

-AI
sopzman4 years ago
That Sabertooth speed controller looks big and complicated. I use the "tinyESCs" by FingerTech Robotics (they are available at the Robot Marketplace). They are 1/20th the size and 1/5th the weight (going by the Robot Marketplace's specifications).
JaredsProjects (author)  sopzman4 years ago
I suggest the sabertooth 5RC, because it has mixing built in already, so no extra mixer is required. If I remember right, the tinyESCs only control one motor each, so two are needed, and a mixer is required to have both motors run on one stick. The tinyESCs are great speed controllers,and may end up saving weight if you find a light mixer, but they require a more complicated setup, and this tutorial is focused on helping begginers. I will add the tinyESCs to the parts section. Thanks for your suggestion!
Thanks for the answer!
I'm not sure it would be more complicated. If you don't like driving with two sticks (like a tank) FingerTech sells a mixer for $6, which is still smaller/lighter than a Sabertooth. Or you can get a radio with programmable mixing, like the HK-T6A. It's cheaper than the Spektrum too.
Both are on this page: http://www.fingertechrobotics.com/products.php?cat=Radio+Equipment
JaredsProjects (author)  sopzman4 years ago
You're right. Using the tinyESCs with a mixer would be easier. I didn't realize that there was no setup with a dip switch or anything like that for it. I never realized how easy to use they are. In fact I now plan on using them on an antweight I am going to build. I will add it to the parts step,and I will add the radio/receiver too. Thanks for pointing these out to me! Do you know if the tinyESC has a lipo protection mode? I couldn't find it on tinyESC's page.
It has a 6V cutout, so that would protect any 2S lipos. Nothing specific for 3S+ but you can tell when your robot is slowing down (especially with a spinning weapon that draws lots of current!). I've never used a lipo guard and never had a lipo go bad.
JaredsProjects (author)  sopzman4 years ago
I agree that the lipo guard isn't really necessary. As long as the battery isn't extremely close to what is need to run a robot for 3 min. What are the robots that you have built? I would like to see pictures, are they on builders database? Or do you have a website.

-AI
nanosec124 years ago
Great Instructible, 5 of 5 stars.

Ever thought of making a seperate insructible for each of your major steps, to add more detail? Not a criticism of this tutorial at all, just a thirst for more information.

Cheers

Nano
JaredsProjects (author)  nanosec124 years ago
I wanted to keep all the steps together in one instructale, t keep it organized. So, I probably won't split it up. I can certainly add more info though. I am planning on adding some to the parts section, is the anywhere else you think I should add info. Thanks for your input!
wait can you have more that one weapon on your robot?
JaredsProjects (author)  zipzapper8594 years ago
Although it is very uncommon, you can have more than one weapon. The reason why it is so uncommon is because it uses up a lot of weight.

P.S. I am going to add this to the Q & A section.

-AI
The maker of little drummer boy told me the same thing. A very nice tutorial.
ok thanks. i want to build one just o build one and not to compete it unless it is really good.i would like a fire breathing hammering spike roller machine..ha ha that would be cool
JaredsProjects (author)  zipzapper8594 years ago
If you build a robot make sure to post pictures, and if you're building one and hit a roadblock and have some questions make sure to ask.

-AI
Where are safety pins usually located on robots?
JaredsProjects (author)  JamesRPatrick4 years ago
Oops. Forgot to mention that. They usually go through the weapon, or in the way of it, so the weapon hits it and stops. The pin has to be on the robot (except during combat)
-AI
Ohhh...I always assumed they were attached to some type of killswitch on the robot during the match.
JaredsProjects (author)  JamesRPatrick4 years ago
Well there is a power switch too, but the safety pin is just another way to prevent the weapon from activating in the pits. If someone was working on a robot, and it somehow turns on and weapons starts, then the weapon could really hurt someone. But the safety pin adds a mechanical failsafe in case something terribly goes wrong with the electronics.
-AI
For saws is the purpose to flip the other robot or to cut the robot up? Do people ever use downward cutting abrasive saws to attack the other robot or drills? A remotly activated arm with alot of thermite in a cup to melt the robot?
Do people ever use corrosive liquids such as sulfuric acid to "dump" on the other robot?
JaredsProjects (author)  snowluck23454 years ago
Saws are used for both purposes, usually they flip the other robot over while taking small chunks out.  Generally downward spinning saws aren't used, because it will flip your robot over instead of flipping the other robot over.  I have never seen a robot with a drill.  The reason is because it would require a lot of contact time with the drill bit to get through the opponents armor.  Also it would require a lot of torque from both the motor spinning the drill and the drive motors.  Also once the drill got through the armor it would do minimal damage unless it hit electronics.  Thermite would be very effective, and be awesome to watch.  But even in events that allow fire and heat, it would probably not pass inspection.  This is because it is highly likely to cause damage to the arena (especially if the floor is wood).  Also your robot is likely to catch on fire to.  Dumping liquids, solids, or gases is not allowed.  The reasons are: it is likely to cause damage to the arena, it often needs a lot of clean-up, and it is basically indefensible.  All of these are good ideas, but some are against the rules as I said, and some are hard to put on a robot.

Thanks for your questions, I hope you enjoyed the instructable.

-AI
LeumasYrrep4 years ago
Whats cooler then a robot? Two robots fighting!

Nice Instructable.
JaredsProjects (author)  LeumasYrrep4 years ago
Thanks!
-AI
guaeko4 years ago
Just out of curiosity, how much do you spend making an average 1lb robot?
JaredsProjects (author)  guaeko4 years ago
For a very minimum you could build a 1lb robot for <$200.  That doesn't include an active weapon.  For <$300 you could build a robot with a weapon and much better parts, in fact at $300 you could buy mostly top of the line parts. 

P.S. I am going to add this to the Q & A section.

-AI