It's much greener than using the original configuration because you:
a) don't need a CRT
b) don't need a slow, power-wasting disk drive
c) everything is powered by a single power supply.
Also this is one less Commodore 64 that will end up in a landfill, wasting away to nothingness after once being the greatest 8-bit computer of all time, 2nd only to possibly the Atari 800!
Plus all of the ribbon cabling was recycled from old computers - it's cheap, if not free, and doesn't goto waste.
Step 1: Initial Hacking
Step 2: Modding the Original Keyboard
I recycled the original connectors so there was one less thing to buy!
The keyboard& with the function part sawed off. I opted to use the original keyboard because 80s computers had such great keyboards, why ditch em?
Step 3: Rewiring the Joystick Ports
Step 4: Design Work
because thats how I roll. I started the layout around noon on a Wednesday, with a goal of routing it Friday morning.
I used a lot of V-bits to give everything sharp angles and a very 80s feel. This includes the screen, which is recessed in the lid to allow room for the raised keys when closed. This top deep bevel matches up to the bevels around the lower portion when closed.
The case is in 4 parts, 2 for the lid, 2 for the base. Like the recent Xbox 360 laptops everything is curved, beveled, and slow to rout.
Finally I did a color revision of the laptop design (This was probably on a Thursday night just before The Office came on) This shows me how the unit will look and simulates the shading on all of the surfaces. I ended up going a darker beige when I painted it because light beige didn’t look quite right.
Step 5: Assembling the Keyboard Frame
All of this connects via 1 cable header to the main motherboard so its easy to take the unit apart when testing. This is in contrast to say my Xbox 360 laptop where there are& lets see& 4 different things you have to connect when placing the lid.
Step 6: Installing the Main Components
As mentioned earlier I used a Gamecube power supply for this project. It plugs into the back, then goes to a big meaty PC power supply switch. When switched this sends 12 volts to the LCD, 12 volts to the SID and a switching regulator creates 5 volts for the C64 logic, audio amp and 1541-III-DTV.
The LCD is from AEI components and runs off the same single 12 volt power supply.
Audio amplification was done with an LM386 amp, pretty simple to wire up and can run off the main 5 volt rail.
Step 7: Testing the Unit
Looks good, so I can attach the McMaster-Carr friction hinges to the back, call it a day, and play some M.U.L.E.!