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Commuting and Trail Riding Bicycle Helmet Lighting Solution...

Step 3Build the frame

Build the frame
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Through much trial and error on different projects, I have learned: Do not bend aluminum at a 90 degree angle. All of my bends were completed by bending the aluminum around a wood dowel so that the bend radius was enlarged as not to weaken the structural integrity of the aluminum as much as a sharp bend.

An important design consideration in my lighting system was for wrecks. Commercial systems are designed to shear off your helmet in the event of a wreck so as to minimize helmet and/or skull damage. All of my aluminum was screwed together with no more than three #4 screws to facilitate breakage on impact, but not during normal use. Additionally, Nonstructural components, including LEDs were mounted using Nylon screws to eliminate short circuits due to inadequate mountings.

Another important design consideration for my system was heat dissipation. I needed approximately 1 square inch of Aluminum inch per watt based on my readings, but I did not want a heavy heatsink up there on my head. Believe me, I have been riding for two years with three commercial lights on my helmet. It overweights the helmet and really works your back and neck on long rides. My new frame is all one big heatsink that works amazingly well.

I constructed my frame to fit my bike helmet and bent the aluminum accordingly. You will notice that my headlight does not swivel or pivot. After years of commuting, all with lights, I discovered that once I had the light adjusted, I never touched it again unless it got misaligned by bumping it on something. Bump-no-more, this light stays true to its aim.

The specified aluminum bar is easy enough to bend with your bare hands, but stiff enough to hold its shape. I drilled holes in nonstructural ares to reduce weight.

Please ignore the dirty entry rug, somehow I overlooked aesthetics while excitedly photographing my project.
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Author:callmesuperman