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Step 6Assemble final project
The light system is held onto the helmet with two 3/4" square pieces of heavy duty Velcro under the canter frame support, and two 3/4" x 3/8" pieces of Velcro under each of the side strut/side LED locations. Two lightweight velcro straps affix it to the helmet by wrapping through the helmet vents.
Each of the LED stars was thermal pasted to the frame. The paste on its own is probably enough to hold it on, but they were screwed to endure the miles and miles of vibration they would see.
The umbilical was reinforced with zipties and hot glue at the battery holder and ziptied to the frame for strain relief.
The lens for the front LEDs is a piece of 1/8" acrylic cloverleaf shape traced from the front headlight, cut with a dremel, and shaped using my grinder. It is affixed to the front using a single thin zip tie and Clear RTV silicone gasket material. This is a light weight method and is still water tight.
I aimed the headlight approximately 20 feet in front of me at my standard riding position. My average speed on a bicycle is about 15-16 mph between trail and pavement. This throw distance allows me to pivot my head slightly up or down to compensate for increased viewing range or close examination depending on my speed and obstacles. I have found this to work well for me. The spot that these lenses throw is approximately 8 feet wide at 30 feet, and has a 20 foot very slightly lit circle of overflow light which gives good peripheral viewing. Photographing light for comparison is difficult, but it is very bright even in street-lit areas.
The side LED blinkers are set back slightly rear of center so as to be visible from any direction but directed at cars approaching from the rear intending to cut me off with a right hand turn. They have worked very well so far. Even in a bike lane, it is amazing. Cars used to give me a 12" birth, maybe. Now, they consistently steer around me by 3-4 feet giving me much more safety on ice/snow packed roads. The best addition to my system closely matched by the battery indicator.
Each of the LED stars was thermal pasted to the frame. The paste on its own is probably enough to hold it on, but they were screwed to endure the miles and miles of vibration they would see.
The umbilical was reinforced with zipties and hot glue at the battery holder and ziptied to the frame for strain relief.
The lens for the front LEDs is a piece of 1/8" acrylic cloverleaf shape traced from the front headlight, cut with a dremel, and shaped using my grinder. It is affixed to the front using a single thin zip tie and Clear RTV silicone gasket material. This is a light weight method and is still water tight.
I aimed the headlight approximately 20 feet in front of me at my standard riding position. My average speed on a bicycle is about 15-16 mph between trail and pavement. This throw distance allows me to pivot my head slightly up or down to compensate for increased viewing range or close examination depending on my speed and obstacles. I have found this to work well for me. The spot that these lenses throw is approximately 8 feet wide at 30 feet, and has a 20 foot very slightly lit circle of overflow light which gives good peripheral viewing. Photographing light for comparison is difficult, but it is very bright even in street-lit areas.
The side LED blinkers are set back slightly rear of center so as to be visible from any direction but directed at cars approaching from the rear intending to cut me off with a right hand turn. They have worked very well so far. Even in a bike lane, it is amazing. Cars used to give me a 12" birth, maybe. Now, they consistently steer around me by 3-4 feet giving me much more safety on ice/snow packed roads. The best addition to my system closely matched by the battery indicator.
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