Its charcoal fuelled, with an air intake and sweep out hole at the bottom.
Step 1: What You Need...
* Oil container drum 20l+ (free)
* 2 clay pots which fit above (£10)
* vermiculite (10 litres £4)
* 2 bricks (free)
* broken tiles/rubble (free)
* 3 metal knobs
* Angle grinder with stone cutting disc
* Flat blade screwdriver or chisel
* Drill and masonry and hss bits
Step 2: Cut Open Lid of Can
Remove cut lid. Use a hammer to flatten round the sharp edges.
Its a good idea to tape over this rough edge to prevent cuts to your hands as you will be working inside it.
Remove any remaining oil using a dry cloth.
Step 3: Cut Air Holes
I beat a and tapered edge outwards using a ball pein hammer and a wooden stump as a beating base.
Pot already had a drain hole. I drilled 4 extra air holes around it.
Step 4: Base Pot & Handles
The bottom pot was placed on broken tiles. I also dded some sand to the tile base. Lower pot was inserted and side filled with vermiculite for insulation. I made a paper funnel to get vermiculite in through the narrow border edge. Fill it up to the rim of the pot.
Step 5: Top Pot & Lid
Other people have used a hand tenon saw for the job.
Smooth off the base and lid for a level finish. I added a metal knob with washers for convenience.
Step 6: Stack It Up!
I was running low on vermiculite so wedged in some extra broken concrete pieces to fill up the void. Its not the best of insulators but it does help hold the top half in situ.
Fill remaining edge voids with vermiculite.
Step 7: Cap It Off!
I decided to cap off the vermiculite using sand cement and broken tiles.
This will prevent vermiculite from blowing away, getting wet and keep it weatherproof should it get left outside.
I added broken tiles to minimize cracking and the mosaic finish looks hip. Lets see how well it lasts.
Sponge wipe the cemented tiles for a clean crisp finish, ensuring no sharp tile edges are protruding.
Leave to dry.
Step 8: Finished Product
Its a shame the tin wasnt a bit taller for the extra insulation.
Stack it up on 3 or 4 half bricks to keep the air hole clear and leave some space for an ash collection tray.
Step 9: Lets Get Cooking!
Leave the lid slightly open for air circulation and give it 30-40 mins to get up to temperature. I dont leave the lid fully open as the charcoal could burn too fast.
Wait for coals to go white hot.
I skewered some marinated chicken breast pieces on a hanging skewer and placed in oven. I left lid slightly ajar and left to cook for half hour.
For cleanup, pick out any large lumps and sweep cold ashes down the air hole into an ash collection tray. Beats cleaning a barbecue grill!
Step 10: Conclusion
Lamb seekh kebabs came out a treat.
Worked well even with exposed chimney.
Final verdict is waiting for thr naan bread test.
Yes, add a charcoal tray to prevent charcoal lumps from blocking air intake holes. I made this from external plaster beading hammered into shape. To remove galvanizing i left it to sit on hot coal lumps (or you can use acid)
Also recommend making larger or make more surrounding satelite air intake holes.
The metal lid knob gets hot, so use a wooden one.
If you intend to leave it outside, I would seal the exterior of the clay pot with several coats of varnish. This should prevent it soaking moisture or water. Heating up wet Claypots are prone to crack, so ensure they are dry before use.