Compact Grappling Hook





Introduction: Compact Grappling Hook

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When I was a kid I made little grappling hooks out of paper clips. No G.I. JOE was complete without one! Now that I'm all grown I've graduated from paper clips. Last year I made my son a Katana Letter Opener for Christmas. This year I made him a grappling hook. It screws apart for compact storage and even has an N52 Neodymium magnet. It's tied to 50' of paracord.

Step 1: Gather Materials

Everything you need is at the hardware store.

1, 3/4" bolt

1, 3/4" nut

5/16" steel rod

Neodymium magnet.

Over all it all cost about $11.00.

Step 2: Turn the Body

All the work is done on a Harbor Freight Mini Lathe. To start I machined a flat face on the head of the bolt. This allowed it to sit square against the chuck when I flipped it around. Next I drilled a hole in the end so I would have a place for the live center (a live center is a support that spins along with your work piece while supporting it).

I machined the threads off leaving just enough for the width of the nut. I followed by machining in a cool shape.

Step 3: Finish the Head

Taking the head of the bolt from six sides to a circle takes some patience. It helps to use gear oil to keep things cutting smooth. I turned all the sides round and used a file to bevel the edge.

Since the magnet is 1/2" x1/4" I used a 1/2" drill bit to drill a hole that was just shy of 1/4".

Step 4: Prep the Nut

I used a ruler to mark the center of the nut and drilled a pilot hole. I followed that with a 5/16" bit.

Step 5: Form the Eye Bolt

Every grappling hook has to have a way to tie off. I took a section of 3/16" steel rod and wrapped it around the 5/16" rod. This made a spiral which I could cut down to one loop. I inserted the eye bolt into the same hole that supported the live center. I then cross drilled a hole and hammered in a pin to keep it in place.

Step 6: Making the Tines

This is not the sanctioned way to use a pipe cutter but I do it all the time and it works great. I cut out 3 sections of equal length from the 5/16" rod. I set my lathe to 10 degrees and machined a point onto each tine. Next I used a piece of wire to help determine the final shape.

Step 7: Bend and Weld

I put each tine into a vise and bent them to shape with the help of a pipe. I welded them into the holes I drilled for the nut. I cleaned up the welds with a deburring tool.

Step 8: Powder Coat

I powder coated the everything and baked it in an old toaster oven. I glued in the magnet with super glue and and finally tied it off with paracord. Thanks for reading.



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Very cool project and excellent directions! Thanks for sharing! Might just be my first ever lathe project...after Christmas?

This is absolutely scary. We aren't making this as a toy , I hope.

Using low grade bolt and rod, (A36) (36000 yield) for this is really scary.

I could show the load calculations, but suffice it to say, do NOT use this "for real"

This is only a "toy"

You asked "We aren't making this as a toy" and then said DO NOT use this for real. I believe the correct would be that you are advising that in fact it is just for show and yes you are correct, NOT for real use due to the load strength, etc.

Can you give an example of a "high grade" bolt? If its low grade, is it because of the type of material that its made of? Do you know of a resource to find the yields of different bolts?? Thanks

A classic reference for that sort of info used to be Mark's Handbook for Mechanical Engineers. Most fastener manufacturers have yield and failure strengths on their website (as spec sheets). Low grade is lower strength and related to many things - alloy used, and heat treatment primarily.

All fasteners (bolts, screws, nails, and the like) have ratings for the engineer types. That way they can apply those values in their calculations. Part of why hot rivets fell out of favor, since no two rivets are alike. Bolt grades are also important to pay attention to in mechanical work too. An engine is usually held together with high tensile strength bolts. Replace these bolts with bolts of a lower tensile strength and the likelihood of catastrophic failure becomes a very real possibility. Here is one place to find stuff about fastener grading.

Be safe out there people.

The paracord is likely to be the weak point unless you think the hooks are going to have huge bending loads on them.

Anyway to make something like without having a lathe, welder and such?