Introduction: Compact Pegboard Tool Case


Several years ago (16) I moved into a new house and had a young child.  My problem: how to store all of my tools in a limited space in a way that is safe from children.

I built this pegboard tool case which can be closed and locked that gives me about 32 x 4 feet of tool storage space while taking up as little as 11 feet of wall space.


Step 1: Tools and Materials

Tools:
  Saw for cutting 2x6 lumber, 1x2 strips, and pegboard.
  Screw driver (or drill driver with screw bit recommended!)
  Drill and drill bit (for drilling pilot holes)
  Square

Wood:
  11   2x6 8 feet long
  12 1x2 firing strips, 8 feet long
  4   4x8 3/8th inch pegboard
  1   1/4 inch plywood (good on one side is fine)

Metal:
  2   1/8 inch x 1.25 inch wide x 3 feet long steel bar (for hanging the case
  2   5 1/2 inch angle bracket
  8   5 1/2 inch hinge
  ~100  1 inch long deck screws
  ~50  1 1/4 inch lag screws  (I call these the short lag screws)
  ~50  3 inch long lag screws (I call these the long lag screws)

Other Materials:
  1 bottle of wood glue


You may be tempted to use 1/4 pegboard but I find the 3/8th inch or better is stronger and can take the span I've indicated here without warping.


Step 2: Assemble Back Frame

The tool case is composed of three frames connected by hinges.

The back frame is the largest frame measuring 4x8 feet.

Begin by cutting one of the eight foot 2x6's into two boards measuring 45 inches long.
On a flat surface make a 4x8 foot frame by attaching the 45 inch boards to two of the eight foot 2x6s as shown in Figure 2A.  Drill a pilot hole and connect the 2x6 boards using the long lag screws.


Now cut the 1x2 firing strips and glue and screw them inside the 2x6 frame using the deck screws.  See Figure 2B for details.


Now cut the pegboard to 45 inches by 93 inches keeping the corners square.
Add glue to the top sides of all of the firing strips and then insert the pegboard and screw it to the firing strips using the deck screws.  When the glue dries the pegboard will act as a webbing increasing the strength of the frame.  See Figure 2C for details.


Step 3: Assemble Center Frame

The center frame is composed of two sub-frames.

The center frame is constructed similar to the back frame except it is made up of two frames.

Begin by cutting two of the eight foot 2x6's into four boards measuring 45 inches long.
Cut two of the eight foot 2x6's into four boards measuring 48 inches long.

On a flat surface make two 4x4 foot frames by attaching the 45 inch boards to two of the forty eight inch 2x6s as shown in Figure 3A. Drill a pilot hole and connect the 2x6 boards using the long lag screws.


Now cut the 1x2 firing strips and glue and screw them inside the 2x6 frame using the deck screws. See Figure 3B for details.


Now cut two of the the pegboard sheets into four 45 inch by 45 inch squares keeping the corners square.

Add glue to the top sides of all of the firing strips and then insert the pegboard and screw it to the firing strips using the deck screws. flip each frame over and repeat the glue and pegboard screwing on the other side of the firing strip.  When the glue dries the pegboard will act as a webbing increasing the strength of the frame. See Figure 3C for details.


Step 4: Assemble Front Frame

The Front frame is composed of two sub-frames.

The front frame is constructed similar to the center frame except for:
    o the position of the firing strips,
    o only one pegboard web is used,
    o the front is covered with a 1/4 inch sheet of plywood.


Begin by cutting two of the eight foot 2x6's into four boards measuring 45 inches long.
Cut two of the eight foot 2x6's into four boards measuring 48 inches long.

On a flat surface make two 4x4 foot frames by attaching the 45 inch boards to two of the forty eight inch 2x6s as shown in Figure 3A. Drill a pilot hole and connect the 2x6 boards using the long lag screws.


Now cut the 1x2 firing strips and glue and screw them inside the 2x6 frames using the deck screws. See Figure 4C for details.


Now cut one of the the pegboard sheets into two 45 inch by 45 inch squares keeping the corners square.

Add glue to the top sides of all of the firing strips and then insert the pegboard and screw it to the firing strips using the deck screws.  When the glue dries the pegboard will act as a webbing increasing the strength of the frame.  New cut the 1/4 inch plywood and into two 48 inch by 48 inch squares.  Attach each plywood sheet to the front of the frame.  See Figure 4C for details.


Step 5: Assemble All Frames and Mount.


Lay the frames together with the back frame on the floor, then the center frame(s) then the front frame(s) on top. 

Add the hinges to the frames so that the frames will open up when the case is hung and secured to the wall.

At this point you can add the hardware to lock the front frames together.  In my case I used a simple hook and eye latch.

You will need help attaching the frame to the wall.  Make sure it is level in all axises.  I used two three foot straps to attach the back frame securely to the ceiling joists.  When the frames are opened, the top is pulled away from the wall.  To prevent this I attached the L brackets to the top of the back frame and secured it to the wall.

Best Wishes


Comments

author
khughes17 (author)2015-03-16

Did you hang tools on both sides of each pegboard panel? Would you recommend that? I am looking into this idea to move some of my tools out of my mobile toolbox so that it is not so over full. I have some unused wall space that this would be perfect for.

author
maewert (author)khughes172015-04-01

The back and front panels are single-sided only but the center panel does have tools on both sides. I used the shorter pegboard hooks for hanging those tools.

Best Wishes!

author
wkearney99 (author)2013-10-24

Bravo! I've been debating on how to maximize my pegboard setup for the new house.

How's it been holding up?

author
maewert (author)wkearney992013-10-25

Very well actually. It's been on the wall 19 years now with no signs of wear! It is a little hard to latch close, however, it started out that way. (Maybe if I was more of a craftsman I would have aligned the doors better at the beginning!) When I first installed it and I opened the doors it did pull away from the wall at the top as I mentioned in the 'ible. I had to anchor the top to the cement wall using strong L brackets and lag bolts. Since then it has worked like a charm.
Best Wishes

author
wkearney99 (author)maewert2013-10-25

That's great! I was wondering about how well it stayed aligned. I could imagine my board getting pretty loaded up. And all that weight might eventually make it sag. I'd probably put an L-bracket under the center as a means to take the load off the hinges when it's closed. But I guess the two doors closed against each other would probably accomplish the same sort of thing.

I look at this as a way to get my infrequently used stuff put up somewhere accessible instead of just stuffed in a drawer or cabinet somewhere. For frequently used stuff I'd probably keep them more accessible elsewhere.

author
maewert (author)wkearney992013-10-26

Oh, I forgot to mention in my post how the pegboard being glued and screwed made the panels rock solid. Before I added them I was very concerned that the panels would warp under their own weight let alone when tools are added, but the pegboard acted like a web and made them very strong.

author
mefromliny (author)2010-09-16

Great job. Thanks for doing such a great job of taking pics. Mine is about halfway through and it's looking good. I did use piano hinges, because I had some sitting around, and they are holding out very well. Thanks again. Ken

author
maewert (author)mefromliny2010-09-17

Sounds great!  I'm glad the piano hinges are working out. 

Be sure to post a few pictures when you're finished!

Mark

author
greggspen (author)2010-08-23

This is a great idea, just the thing for a workshop with limited space. It could also be put on a wheeled frame for bringing tools close to a job. I think piano hinges might be a tidier option for the doors but I don't know how they would handle the weight. Supercool A+++

author
maewert (author)greggspen2010-08-23

Thanks for your kind words.

I'm not sure about the idea to add wheels.  It would be great if it would work because as you can see most of my tools are actually missing as they are on a job site!  I fear that in order to keep it from falling over the base of the wheels would have to be 8 feet.  When the doors are open, there is a *significant* moment arm trying to pull the thing off the wall.

I did think about piano hinges but the one ones I could find looked way too flimsy.  For the hinges I used I actually secured them using bolts (which I did not mention but I'll update that step!) as I thought nails or screws would pull out due to the weight.

Best Wishes.

author
Presman (author)2010-08-23

Great Cabinet You were able to solidify some design for as I am thinking of putting in something like that. Was wondering how well a multi-hinge would work The boards you are using look more like a 1X4 rather than a 2X6. It may be just a frame of reference the picture shows. Can you verify the size?

author
maewert (author)Presman2010-08-23

Yes, they are 2x6's.  Rather difficult to get a good picture as the thing is BIG and my space, not so much.

The multi-hinge works ok.  By holding the front frame you can move the center frame in either direction by pushing or pulling toward or away from the hinge.  In my design I have no mechanism for holding the frames into position.  A friction brake would be nice to keep them into position.

Best Wishes :-)

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Bio: I'm an aerospace engineer by trade but am interested in astronomy, robotics, CNC machines, Arduinos, you name it.
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