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Step 5Veneer!
This step is a relatively easy one.
By now you have your veneer. I used some Makore leftover from a surfboard project, but really any thin pretty veneer will work.
I just taped it together to bookmatch it, slapped some epoxy resin on it, taped it into place on the deck, and vacuumed the whole thing on the mold till cured. You can either brush the resin directly on the deck before applying the veneer, or use a layer of fiberglass between them again. I used the glass because I didn't want my fat ass breaking the board the first time I used it!
I put on the deck and bottom layers of veneer at the same time. Come to think of it, I probably could have done the same with the balsa skins, but I didn't want to push my luck first time around.
Once it's all cured, you can pull it off the mold and cut out the outline. We're going to add a 1/4" all the way around, so take that into account, but it really won't make much of a difference.
Use an old board or something to draw your outline, or just freehand it. If freehanding, use a big sheet of construction paper folded in half for your template so it will be bilaterally symmetrical after you cut it and unfold it. Symmetry is very important, otherwise why even bother?
Now (BEFORE cutting the outline) would be a really great time to use those measurements you took for the truck inserts (you did take measurements, right?) and mark out your truck locations. This is worth taking some time to get right. You haven't gotten this far without having some brains and problem-solving skills. Don't blow it all now by screwing up your truck placement.
Draw the outline on the deck, cut it with a jigsaw a little outside of the marked line, then use a sanding block to get the edges all square. The sanding goes pretty q This will be tough on the concaves to get everything square to the curved edges, but worth it.
By now you have your veneer. I used some Makore leftover from a surfboard project, but really any thin pretty veneer will work.
I just taped it together to bookmatch it, slapped some epoxy resin on it, taped it into place on the deck, and vacuumed the whole thing on the mold till cured. You can either brush the resin directly on the deck before applying the veneer, or use a layer of fiberglass between them again. I used the glass because I didn't want my fat ass breaking the board the first time I used it!
I put on the deck and bottom layers of veneer at the same time. Come to think of it, I probably could have done the same with the balsa skins, but I didn't want to push my luck first time around.
Once it's all cured, you can pull it off the mold and cut out the outline. We're going to add a 1/4" all the way around, so take that into account, but it really won't make much of a difference.
Use an old board or something to draw your outline, or just freehand it. If freehanding, use a big sheet of construction paper folded in half for your template so it will be bilaterally symmetrical after you cut it and unfold it. Symmetry is very important, otherwise why even bother?
Now (BEFORE cutting the outline) would be a really great time to use those measurements you took for the truck inserts (you did take measurements, right?) and mark out your truck locations. This is worth taking some time to get right. You haven't gotten this far without having some brains and problem-solving skills. Don't blow it all now by screwing up your truck placement.
Draw the outline on the deck, cut it with a jigsaw a little outside of the marked line, then use a sanding block to get the edges all square. The sanding goes pretty q This will be tough on the concaves to get everything square to the curved edges, but worth it.
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