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Step 7: Finishing up.

Time to finish up this project. Slide the whole assembly through the hole you drilled in the last step add some waterproof caulking behind the flange and secure it to the house with the screws. You will notice in this picture that I had to make a small wooden block to mount the pipe flange to because of the angle of the clapboard siding. The block was stained to match the wood siding of the house, and the pipe flange and screws were touched up with more spray paint. On the inside of the house, add the male quick connect fitting to the other end of the pipe and you are done with the installation.
<p>Thanks. Yes, I am thinking of wrapping up the quick connect in the winter to protect from elements. Kind of like wrapping a window air conditioner for the winter.</p>
<p>Hi. What material was the cable strain relief you used? Is nylon OK for outdoor use (sub zero temps), or is a metal strain relief better? Thanks a lot for the tutorial, very useful.</p>
<p>The one I used was a standard nylon strain relief out of an electronics catalog. I think it was a LAPP brand. I am pretty sure its some kind of polyamide or nylon. It has been out in the weather a few years without problems. I do have to replace the quick connect, the steel parts have started corroding, and the seal has gone bad, but that probably just the cost of doing business given the weather we get in the northeast. I'm glad you found this useful. </p>
<p>I imagine you have to run a lot of hose if you're running an air line source from a fixed position. How are you dealing with the condensation/moisture that accumulates due to the hose length.</p>
Thanks alot, now i need to by a bigger air compressor. but really thats great thanks for posting. <br>
Nice Job! I'm sure you'll enjoy this for many, many years.
Nice. Really elegant solution. Couldn't you have previously poked it out of the window in the above picture though?
As with many old houses, the previous owners made some decisions that I would not have. Like taking the semi-rotten basement windows and sealing them in place with spray foam, and then someone else came along and screwed and caulked single pane storm windows over them. Rendering them all doubly non-operable. Not the best solution, compared to replacing them with newer windows. But it works well enough to be fairly low on the list of things on this house that need refurbishment.
well done! I've always had the luxury of a garage when doing my car work, but this is a fantastic fix to a problem a lot of people have. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. I had been trying to figure it out for a while. I tried searching for a good solution on the internet, I found a lot of people who where trying to do something like this, or build something like this, but no one had a found a nice solution. Once it was figured out the execution was simple, and I hope worth sharing with the other shade tree mechanics, professional mechanics, woodworkers, contractors, propeller heads, tinkerers, etc, etc, out there.

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