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This is my very first instructable so tell me what you think. I looked on here for computer mod stuff and only a few things turned up,(making a window, etching on your window) so I decided to give all of you computer modders the full version of "modifying your computer".
Materials you will need:
1)plexiglass
2)small 1/2 to 3/4 inch screws
3)drill with bits
4)a way to cut your case material (in my case a dremel cut right through the metal)
5)hand screw driver
6)masking tape
7)File
8) 1/4 inch tubing
8)anything you think would look cool on your computer (I used some neon orange wire sleeve, blue cold cathode light, light up ATA cable, and SATA led cable)
There is so many computer mod sites I used http://www.xpcgear.com/casemodding.html

Step 1: The Window

The first and most basic computer mod is to add a window. So lets get going.

The first thing you will want to do is decide if you want to have just a hole, a hole with tubing around the edges, or a hole with tubing and plexi-glass (a true window).

Take off your door panel and look at your computer for any parts that will prevent your door from fully closeing. In my case it happened to be a support beam for my power supply and the lip at the rear of my case. These parts caused my first attempt to fail. So measure and measure again.

Add 1 1/2 inch of clearence to your measurements to allow for the extra plexi-glass. Then mark your window on your case useing some masking tape and start cutting.

Step 2: The Window Cont....

Now start filing the rought edges and round the corners, for those of you that totaly ignored that step you can get some 1/4 inch tubeing and run a slit the legnth of one side of the tube. Run the tube around your window. If you feel safe that nothing will get into your computer (pets, little brother, liquids of any kind) then you can leave it open otherwise continue on.

Take your plexi-glass and cut it to fit you window with about 1 1/2 inches extra on each side. carfuly drill a hole in your door that is slightly bigger than your screw, now center you plexi-glass over you window, you should be able to see the hole in the door that you just drilled. Carfuly (don't push to hard on the plexi-glass) drill a hole that lines up with the hole in the door (make sure the hole is smaller than your screw). repeat this untill your plexi-glass is secure. TA-DA you have a window.

If my directions were a little unclear you can check these two sites, I found they helped my a lot https://www.instructables.com/id/E0TPGA73GTEP287FTT/
http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/ComputingSolutions/0,,30_288_13265_13295%5E13330,00.html

Step 3: Adding Wire Sleeves

This is pretty easy but you pretty much buy them (http://www.xpcgear.com/casemodding.html) and plug them in but heres what I found that really helped.

I first unpluged everything from the mother board except the CPU fan (that is assuming you can put everything back together). I only had 4 feet so I was limited to my choice of cables, I picked my 4 pin connector, LED/speaker wires, and another unknown cable (I just know where its goes not what it does). Anyway you just slide one end of the sleeve over your cable untill you have reached the desired legnth (mine was as far as it could go) then cut the sleeve off at the end of your cable. Add cable ties to prevent the sleeve from fraying and you're done, pretty simple.

Step 4: Adding SATA and ATA Cables

This is a little bit harder but still pretty easy.

To add a SATA cable you should unplug your hard drive and remove it from your case then plug one end of you SATA cable into the motherboard, find a nice hiding sport for the little box and stick it down useing the tape they provide. Plug the box into a 4 pin power thing and re-attach your hard drive.

Its the same concept with ATA cables (CD-rom cables) just instead of the hard drive being removed the CD-rom is removed.

Step 5: Cold Cathode Lights!!!!

This is pretty much the same as the previous step but oh well ill do it anyway.

First I recommend the small 4 inch lights because they go almost anywhere in you case, if you get 4 inch ones I recommend getting two (that means two packages of two lights).

Get out the switch (that should fit in a PCI slot) and screw that down. Then connect the switch to the box, Then hide the box and tape it down using the tape they provide (but it has to be close to where your lights will be placed). Mount the lights using the tape/velcro that they provide and plug them into the box. Now connect the switch to the 4 pin power connector and you're done.
<p>my rig all in all weighs over 70kilos ( duh... it has 6 black ice radiators each with 9 140mm fans each! </p><p>It holds o liters of fluid in the sistem... </p><p>2 AMD RADEON R9 295X2's and 5 intel Ssd's in RAID 0 and 8 WD Caviar Black's for a total of 32TB's it is supah awesome...</p><p>it runs minecraft at 189Fps...</p>
I assume you have a 144Hz monitor then, otherwise, the 189fps would be useless
Nice mod! <br>But you suck at cable management. but still far much cheaper than other tible
Small flaw here. There are still HDDs that use ATA cables, and there are high speed CD and DVD drives that use SATA. I personally have no old style ATA cables anywhere in my rig. Traded it all for nice slender SATA cables!
the ATA cables you refer to? all drive cables are ATA. SATA and PATA. they mean Serial ATA and Parallel ATA
Very true, though it seems to have become more common to refer to PATA as simply ATA and SATA as...well SATA. Very nice looking set up either way. I'm getting new components in tonight, and I will definitely try to dress her up in a good looking way like this.
My custom pc has both ATA cables (which i only included for my old HDD) and SATA, although i haven't taken the time to make all my cables look pretty and organized... ill eventually get around to it....
Do you think UV lights will still look good if i already have some red LED lighting in the case? the LED cabling is just around the window, which wont interfere much with the inside of the clase glowing is i use red uv active cable covers, right?
yes they would as the UV lights don't really have any light of there own as much as they make UV reactive parts light up
Nice mod!<br>But you suck at cable management.
Cold Cathode lights do have a limited life span but the control box and switch are basically the same so when it comes time to replace the light bars, you dont have to completely uninstall them. kudos for thinking of the 4 inch bars. make sure you completely clean the surface you are going to mount to as this will cause the tape to come undone
the correct name for the ATA cables is IDE cables and the &quot;4 pin power thing&quot; is called a molex connector and what the author is installing in this step is lighted SATA and IDE cables that use el wire.
You can also use about an inch of heat shrink on the ends to prevent fraying and it looks less tackey
you can use a hot knife (a putty or butter knife heated with a torch will do) to melt the end of the sleeve after it has been cut. this makes it easier to use the heat shrink and gives it something to grab making it more secure<br>
Or you can use electrical tape. It's easier.
electrical tape gets bad over time and when removed it leaves sticky-ness (also the dust gets through the gaps and sticks there)
but heat shrink looks nicer
dang it hass to get hot in the computer u have a water cooled with some air fans in a custom i prob did not need the water but go big or go home
Sweet! sweet! sweet! sweet! All the do day long!!
It looks water cooled, great job!
i so want to do ome thing like this for my xbox
again we drop silent "e" so it's tubing not tubeing
&nbsp;give him a break doush
I wouldn't leave it open because of the dust and the air circulation inside the pc, it's really a bad idea. Flo
If its open it's way easier to clean out the dust.
PCs get dusty anyway. Second, your hardware stays cooler, trust me.
Sure, but much less dusty. And the hardware doesn't stay cooler. Normally, one fan sucks cold air into the pc, another one gets hot air out. So if you open it, that air-circulation is interrupted, making your fans non-operational. Flo
Nope . . . I have had stuff that would heat up fast, opening the cabinet keeps it a little cool. Like so many of my hardware, especially GPUs that heat up fat work when the cabinet is open but not when closed.
A good case will keep your important bits cooler while closed. Because it will be designed to channel air appropriately. A overloaded, or just plain bad case will be cooler while open.
Working on a case mod TUT. my self, the open case idea does not sound that bad...<br />
Hey, can someone help me with my computer? I use a AMD 4000+ and have the stock fan and a fan on the back of the case, but when I play games like San Andreas and Doom 3, the processor reaches around 95 degrees celcius (seriously). What do I do?
well I would try runnig the computer with the case off, to see if it is a circulation problem. Then if the temperature drops to acecptable levels just ad some more case fans, you could tap into the molexes for power. (and clean the heatsink and add some new thermal grease.)
Yeah I tried all those things, but it didn't work. The computer was replaced but the one with the problem now resides in a relatives office and happily does word processing and Internet browsing at a freezing cold 72 degrees Celcius LOL.
you could also try removing the heatsink and if the stuff between the heatsink and processor are powder more than liquidy, remove the powder and replace the stuff with a thing called thermal paste
72-80 degrees is about the right operating temp for the athlon cores.they were a hot little chappy
really?, most computers generally like to run at about 30-40 degrees.
yea the amd socket A and the begining of the 939 series where hot little buggers sitting at about 60 degrees with the stock cooler at idle was about average. 80 under load and but 90 is exploding range. if your intel is running over 50 degrees full load your cooler might not be clean enough of dust or your thermal compound is dead (unless you've taken the sink off the stock thermal compound shouldn't need changing for a LONG time) my core 2 duo sits at 43 under heavy load, a clean dust free case with good cable management and air flow is the best way to cool a pc before going nuts with extra coolers and fans or water cooling.
yeah my intel 2 duo which i have ocerclocked to 1.68ghz, is always on the 30-40s
you can get a better cpu fan. if you have 775 socket i recommend Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro. It's huge, but my cpu stays in the 40s under max load with the fan at minimum. Its also very quiet and cheap. Or you could use water cooling, but that is very pricey. All the high temps like this that i have read about have been with AMD though. I use intel.
ahhhhh yeh i would undo all that overclocking you have done! or if you haven't done any the heatsink probably isn't making contact with the cpu! no cpu should be getting to those temps with a heatsink and no overclocking! But hey it is AMD ur dealing with here!
Well the computer WAS screwed up, but I replaced it with a XPS 630i for a really good price and added a second 8800GT.
nice!
are you serious? 20 C is about 72 F so damn your near 203 F!!!!!!!!!!!! well, put your computer in a metal box with those games playing and cook a pie or cake...
Nah, I'kk just chick out the motherboard and CPU and get an Intel 8500.
just get an aftermarket heatsink, such as the ones from zalman. Make sure to use a good conductive paste though, Arctic Silver is popular.
I have that motherboard in my motherboard collection! =)<br/>
impressive but most people just buy cases with a side window already there and sleeve the cables themselves
My case with a window built in costs twice as much. Thats why I got it without one.
MINES BETTER, RED NEON,A PENTOGRAM (WITH A DEMON FACE ON IT), AND LIKE 5 FANS!! XD
Wow.. im going to make you cry.. i got 7 fans ! omfg its such a big deal... my case cost 270 pounds omfg im gonna show off about it dude.. Btw to the creator of this instructable you might want to consider something called Cable managment.. all those cables restrict airflow...

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