Introduction: Concrete Bonding

Fact: Fresh wet concrete does not normally bond well to existing dry concrete. Do you remember elementary school where one of the subjects on which you were graded was “plays well with others”? Concrete would have gotten an F. There is nothing in basic portland cement that will act as a bonding agent. Portland cement concrete works well in mass and provides great compressive strength but not bond.

Concrete is marvelous stuff but in time it will deteriorate. When it does you either have to patch it or replace it. Assuming that it is structurally sound the least expensive alternative is to patch it. However patching it requires some attention to detail or your patch will not last. So that you don’t waste too much time or money we should probably discuss what “structurally sound” means. If your sidewalk has either heaved or dropped at almost every joint, repairing it will not provide a long term solution. The slabs are likely still moving. If your slab has so much sand and gravel on the surface that despite sweeping and sweeping and squirting and squirting it just keeps coming back, don’t waste your time on repairs. If you have multiple cracks that run so deep that they appear to run through the slab, a repair would only be temporary. The solution to all of these problems involves a jack hammer and bags of one of the Sakrete concretes.

There are a variety of concrete repair products available to fix concrete that has begun to deteriorate. However without good surface preparation, none of them are going to perform satisfactorily. All loose sand, gravel, dirt, leaves etc. must be removed. This can typically be done with a garden hose and a good nozzle. Tough areas may require a pressure washer or mechanical abrasion. The two toughest areas to cover are those with oil and tree sap. Both of these will work their way down into the concrete. Simply washing the surface isn’t sufficient. If the stains do not run too deep you can chip away the concrete using a hammer and chisel. Don’t forget the goggles (not just glasses) as this process will throw concrete all over the place. Also keep your thumb out of the way. If the spots are too large or too deep for this to be practical you may need a sealer to cover the stains before patching.

Step 1: Two Basic Steps for Concrete Bonding

There are two basic methods for bonding a portland cement based product to existing concrete; 1) chemically and 2) mechanically.

Let’s discuss the mechanical approach first since it is really used in both approaches. The most effective way to ensure a really good bond is with a scratch coat. This is simply a very wet coat made up by mixing the repair product with water. Mix up a small amount of the repair material to a soupy consistency. You don’t need to measure the water-just turn the stuff into slop. Then, using a gloved hand or a rag, smear the material onto the area to be patched. Just think finger painting from kindergarten. The technique is about the same. Apply pressure to ensure that as much as possible is shoved into the nocks and crannies. You only need a thin coat. It is not necessary for this scratch coat to dry. By the time you get the repair material mixed it will be ready. Then mix up additional repair material to the proper consistency and apply over this thin scratch coat.

The chemical approach involved mixing up a liquid bonding agent that helps bond new concrete products to old. Products like Sakrete Top n Bond and Sakrete Flo-Coat already contain polymers that greatly improve the bond of portland cement and should NEVER be used with a liquid bonding agent. I know in America bigger is better but it just ain’t so with these products. Other products like Sakrete Sand Mix and Sakrete Fast Set Cement Patcher benefit from the use of a liquid chemical bonding agent such as Sakrete Bonder/Fortifier. When you use a liquid bonding agent, paint the bonder onto the existing concrete and allow it to dry until it is tacky. This usually takes only a few minutes. Then apply the repair material. Just as in the process described above, after the bonder has become tacky apply a scratch coat and then apply the repair material. The most effective way to ensure that the bonding agent gets into the existing concrete is to apply it directly using a brush or rag. It can be sprayed if you happen to have a sprayer. Although the directions say that you can use it as part of the mix water, direct application works better.

If you are doing a large area and a scratch coat isn’t practical you will need to spray the surface with water before you apply the repair material. On a warm day the existing concrete surface will be hot enough to suck the water our of the repair material. In addition some concretes are quite porous and will also rob water from your repair material. If too much water is lost into the old concrete there will not be enough water to hydrate all of the cement particles and a lower strength material will be the result.

There are some substances that concrete simply will not bond to. Paint, oil, glue from old flooring tiles are just a few. You must mechanically remove these materials if you want the job to last.

Once the job is complete you can do a quick check to see if the bond was successful. Wait at least 24 hours and then tap “gently” on the patch using a hammer or some other dull object and listen for a hollow echoing sound. If you just get a dull thud then the material has bonded well. If you get a hollow sound, the material has not bonded and will crack in time. Which means it is back to the beginning of today’s topic. Here is hoping your concrete work comes across as a dull thud (not like some of my party guests) rather than a hollow endeavor. 


zchais made it!(author)2016-02-17

Thanks, going to use this method using Bond-it SBR Admixture so I can build onto a slab. The slab currently has a pitch that needs levelling on the sides to build a short wall as a plinth. Good luck me!

triumphman made it!(author)2011-08-28

Hi, I am in the NE , right in the storm area, now! I woke this Sunday , 6:30 am, and discovered two small waterfalls in my basement! It seems the builder of my Log Home failed to seal off the two holes surrounding the two plastic pipes that exit my basement, about chest high. One small pipe goes to our drywell (washing machine water), and the larger is the septic tank pipe. They both have a black rubber gasket around them. But the holes they made are roughly cut. It has been raining pretty hard here. I'm guessing the water table rose so fast or the rain water soaked into the ground so fast that it came through those pipe holes. Anyway, the rain is easing off and I wet vacumed up the two inches of water in the left side of my basement! My question is : is there a product that I can get to seal the area around those pipes from inside ? I don't want to go through that again! The wonderful builder also did not provide any way to get the water out of the basement. No sump pump, no sink, no nothing. I have to use a pond pump to pump my wet-vac out my basement doors, as the wet vac holds 16 gallons! I can not lift it up seven concrete basement steps when its full either! I did this about 10 times. Wow! Anyway, I apologize for rambling, any help with a solution will be deeply appreciated !

glorybe made it!(author)2012-08-01

In addition to repairs do purchase a sump pump. It will save you time, stress and maybe a lot of money as well.
Repairs are wonderful but repairs are needed rather suddenly at times. That sump pump can be a wonderful thing. In my area we can't have basements and we get tropical rains. there is always a threat of flood for all homes. We can't elevate the home either as when our hurricanes hit taller is dead meat. Keeping a roof close to the ground saves lives and having only a tiny overhang saves the houses as well . A big overhand on a roof makes a great place for high winds to grip a roof.

Brother+Javafiend made it!(author)2012-03-18

Actually you have several problems here.
1)The foundation was not sealed from the outside to prevent water intrusion.check out this link

2)You have a substandard or non-existant weeping tile system, you should NEVER get that kind of water coming into your basement. The weeping tile system is suppose to guide your excessive ground water that comes in contract with your foundation down grade to a run off area. Check out this link

3) In addition to the weeping tile system there is normally (Required by code) at least 1 in floor drain that connects to your weeping tile system, if there is no in floor drain then there is required to be a sump pump mounted in the basement (Also required by code)

4) How do your rain gutters drain, do they just drain into the downspouts, and into the weeping tile system right next to your house??? take a look at this link.

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