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So I wanted to redo the kitchen in my 1916 Foursquare and I was bored with all the countertop options. Unless you're getting formica, they all cost about the same as granite or marble, look just like granite or marble, and are as typically typical as granite or marble.
The one material that I found was much more customizable than the other solid surfaces was concrete. The colors and textures are endless, you can mold it into just about any shape you can imagine, and it retains the advantages of solid surfaces. But it's concrete, so it must be cheaper than milled stone, right? If you have a professional do it for you, it can actually cost MORE than other solid surfaces...do it yourself, and you can save a bundle. I priced granite countertops in my kitchen and they came out at around $4,000. My custom concrete counter tops ended up coming in at below $800, including the rental of the concrete mixer.
Now before you get ramped up and ready to pour, I will preface all of this with the drawbacks to doing your own concrete countertops.
+ This is not a project that can be completed in a weekend. No matter how small the countertop is, there's at least a 10 day curing process which you will need to do your grinding and polishing in.
+ Concrete needs to be properly sealed at the beginning and waxed about every 30 days to avoid staining.
+ The final outcome might not be exactly what you expected, especially if you're doing it for the first time. The good news is that there's ways to remedy many outcomes that you may not like.
I highly recommend that you buy the book Concrete Countertops by Fu-Tung Cheng before attempting ANY concrete countertop project. Fu-Tung Cheng is the Master and if you're looking to be the Karate Kid of concrete countertops, buy this book. Ralph Macchio wouldn't even think of doing concrete countertops based on my instructable.
The one material that I found was much more customizable than the other solid surfaces was concrete. The colors and textures are endless, you can mold it into just about any shape you can imagine, and it retains the advantages of solid surfaces. But it's concrete, so it must be cheaper than milled stone, right? If you have a professional do it for you, it can actually cost MORE than other solid surfaces...do it yourself, and you can save a bundle. I priced granite countertops in my kitchen and they came out at around $4,000. My custom concrete counter tops ended up coming in at below $800, including the rental of the concrete mixer.
Now before you get ramped up and ready to pour, I will preface all of this with the drawbacks to doing your own concrete countertops.
+ This is not a project that can be completed in a weekend. No matter how small the countertop is, there's at least a 10 day curing process which you will need to do your grinding and polishing in.
+ Concrete needs to be properly sealed at the beginning and waxed about every 30 days to avoid staining.
+ The final outcome might not be exactly what you expected, especially if you're doing it for the first time. The good news is that there's ways to remedy many outcomes that you may not like.
I highly recommend that you buy the book Concrete Countertops by Fu-Tung Cheng before attempting ANY concrete countertop project. Fu-Tung Cheng is the Master and if you're looking to be the Karate Kid of concrete countertops, buy this book. Ralph Macchio wouldn't even think of doing concrete countertops based on my instructable.
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Signing UpStep 1You'll Need (Good) Help
As you'll see in this instructable, I've got the assistance of Mr. P, an evil genius (albeit "special") who lends his raw power and expertise to the project. There are many steps that can be accomplished solo, however concrete is heavy and expect to need anywhere from 2 to 4 people to help move around your countertops on more than one occasion. You'll need at least 3 people involved in your pour. It's best to cure the countertops inside a garage, however grinding and polishing them is very wet and messy, so you'll want to do that outside. Then you'll need to install them in place, so prepare to have people available to help at different times.
Note from Mr. P: If a substance does not have a MSDS, testing should be carried out before prolonged exposure. Not all methods of testing are OSHA approved.
With all due sincerity wear a mask, gloves and safety glasses when mixing concrete or using adhesives and solvents.
Note from Mr. P: If a substance does not have a MSDS, testing should be carried out before prolonged exposure. Not all methods of testing are OSHA approved.
With all due sincerity wear a mask, gloves and safety glasses when mixing concrete or using adhesives and solvents.
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I keep seeing posts talking about Pam or cooking oil as mold release. Would not that potentially stain the concrete from the onset?
People are asking about bagged concrete for countetops...
Lowes carries (special order only so far) Quikrete Countertop Mix.
I have used it several times with great results.
It is more expensive than straight up 5000 psi concrete mix ($10.50 per bag). It does have plasticizer and flow admixture already in it. So it does have desirable flow qualities.
ConcretePaul has experience with his own mixtures (do share!), that would be the cheapest , most tailored to ones specific mix needs... obviously that comes from lots of experimentation. People usually don't want to give info like that out.
For a reliable bagged mix the Quikrete Countertop Mix product worked well straight out of the bag for me. Although the plasticizer made the feel of the mix well.... weird and plasticky :) Very sticky.... maybe not suitable for a drier Buddy Rhodes style veiny concrete pour.
I'm going to experiment mixing a 60 lb. bag of sand mix into a 80 lb. bag of Quikrete countertop mix. see if it feels more "natural". I'll let you know.
Here's two questions for ya'll...
#1 Regarding concrete sealers...
I find the matte/natural sealers make bringing up a shine with waxes (later in the process) difficult. And the Semi-gloss sealers seem streaky and leave a streaky shine even after waxing.
Anybody have a good sealer they recommend a good sealer? Sika and Quikrete sealers don't do it for me so far.
#2 I made a bee's wax/food grade mineral oil final sealer, but the stuff is super sticky... Do I need to add more mineral oil to the mix to get it less viscous/sticky?
Help, my arms are tired from buffing out this gluey goo!
Charlessenf-gm.... says
I was thinking that, in this situation, one might spray the curing sealer onto the mold before the initial "pour" and it would work to seal the surface and provide a slick counter top all in one step as my surface (albeit a bard slab) looked slick and shiny from the "git go."
Charles,
Aren't you afraid that the sealer/curing agent will discolor the concrete (milky, blotchy) if you spray it in the mold prior to casting? Let me know the results of your experiment.....
I used this instructable as the main inspiration for doing my own concrete countertops as part of a larger (super-cheap-ass) kitchen reno.
i've attached a couple pics and the link to the public facebook gallery in which I have a few more pics of the process. kitchen reno gallery
Thanks for the detailed instructions, they helped me greatly in my project!
Thanks for using instructables!
http://www.instructables.com/community/June-is-I-Made-It-Challenge-Month-Win-a-Pro-Mem/
C
I read every comment (so far) and took notes. I figure that these orgnized notes from your collective wisdom could be helpful to others, so I put them up on my blog. This is no replacement for reading everything yourself! I am sure to have missed things and new comments come in all the time. Here's a link to my notes.
Thanks for the great instructable!
http://www.googone.com/
Hope this helps!
I need some advice, we did some diy concrete countertops (in place) in black. The only problem im having is that the top isnt as smooth as i would like it and when i wipe it ..it grabs the cloth and it sticks to the concrete (i.e. sponge,rag, paper towel).
Grinding or sanding is out the question for a few reason which i wont bore you too much with the details (parts of the concrete was pored over an existing countertop and is only about a 1/4" thick plus sanding will make too much mess in the kitchen)
So my question is do you think I can just buff the countertop and what would you recommend i do to fix the ruff finish of my countertops.
Thanks....a mil
One concern... isnt the countertop very heavy? And the wood support looks weak - and in a few years might become weak with water/moisture (or even bend with heat).
Any ideas on a what a stronger support might be? Perhaps some concrete (with reinforced bars) pillar support?
If you are concerned about weight you should look into GFRC concrete, this is amazing stuff.
First off thanks for your instructable. I successfully finished a counter for my fireplace in my recent remodel. I'm trying to find a solution for the kitchen and I think I might take a shot at a bigger project. Thought I might ask about your inlay and a couple other things.
(1) When pouring did you pour with your aluminum inlay or did you sub something else in there that won't stick to your concrete? If so what did you use?
(2) What do you think is the max dimensions for a 2" slab should be?
Island: 180"x48" (would be two slabs of 7.5' approx x 4')
Back Counter: 10' x 25.5"
Just curious is pouring 2 slabs for the island and 1 slab for the back counter is going to work for this project. I have some stainless steel lying around so I plan to do something similar to your design.
Any thoughts are appreciated... As for the overhang on the island I would assume corbels are recommended similar to granite. I believe I would be looking at an overhang of about 10-14".
Thanks Again!
1. I poured with the aluminum in place and it didn't stick. when I hardened, it popped right off, then when I put the countertop in place I used epoxy to attach everything together.
2. Those are very large slabs, but I've seen slabs that large before. Your biggest challenge is going to be supporting the slabs while moving them and putting them in place. Also you will need to make sure the base they are sitting on are VERY well supported to not shift - otherwise they will crack.
For something that large, I think you'd be best off pouring in place. Other folks on this forum have done it, but I haven't yet.
Poured 2 pieces for the island. It would be 6'ft + (1.5ft tail) x 48" for both sides
OR
Pour 3 pieces for the island
As for the back side I think we could move it easily without problems, but added a stress point would be smarter. I attached an image, let me know what you would do. Thanks!