Step 5: Pouring the Concrete

The day of the pour had finally arrived and to top it all off, our friendly neighborhood Home Depot had rented us a beautiful, brand new, virgin concrete mixer for 50 bucks for the day. That's right, we were the first ones to use this fine machine and Mr. P was anxiously waiting to put it through its paces.

I ended up buying Cheng Pro-Formula Mix off the website because this was my first pour and I didn't want any surprises. The kits come with everything you need, minus bags of Quickrete 5000 that you can buy at any home improvement store. It has the color tinting, support fibers, and water reducers to make the concrete perfect for countertops. I highly recommend this for first timers.

You'll want to make sure to have gloves and masks while you're mixing concrete since it is very dusty and messy. It's also a good idea to have 3 people during the pour so that one person can be cleaning up the mixer and tools while the others are pouring it.

We followed the instructions that came with the kits to mix the concrete and then started rolling wheelbarrows of concrete into the garage. At first we gently put in the concrete with our hands so that we wouldn't disturb the crushed glass. Once the glass was covered, we used a shovel to load it in. Only fill the mold half full before you stop to vibrate the concrete.

You must vibrate the concrete if you want to avoid air bubbles that will create voids in the countertop. There are commercial concrete vibrators, but I found that rapping rubber mallets along the bottom and all around the mold seemed to work best. It really wears you out using the mallets, but you'll soon see air bubbles popping out along the surface so you'll know it's working. Cheng also recommends using an orbital sander with no sandpaper on it to vibrate the concrete. I tried this and it worked ok around the sides of the mold, but didn't do much along the bottom.

Now go ahead and fill the mold with the rest of the concrete making sure to add a bit more than the mold can hold. Use a straight piece of lumber or melamine that is long enough to span the mold to screed the concrete. Start on one side and push the screed back and forth along the sides till you go all the way across the mold for a level finish. Make sure you fill any holes where the concrete might have been low and re-screed it. Go ahead and start vibrating the concrete again. Make sure you've vibrated it as well as possible. It took me about 10 minutes of swinging the mallets before I felt that it was vibrated properly.

Now you wait...and watching it doesn't make it dry any faster.

The ideal curing conditions are in a humid, shaded area between 70 and 90 degrees fahrenheit. I chose to have it cure in my garage since it stays in those conditions through the summer. It's recommended that if the temperature is below 50 degrees you get some sort of heating for proper curing. It's also not good to cure in the sun because it will dry out too quickly and be more likely to crack. I waited 4 days before moving onto the next step. Can you imagine Mr. P's anticipation?

Mr. P Note: "Unbearable!!"

Thanks for the help. I also bought the book. Together, the project wasn't that tough at all...
<p>How did you get that look? Did you just polish and seal it?</p>
cmc70 the countertops look great. Did you use anything extra to support the eating overhang on the island?
sj.. sorry I havent been back to here in a while. Yes, I used some Stainless Steel arcs anchored to the studs in the Island and the underside of the countertop. It is not finished here in these pictures. <br> <br>C <br>
I'm getting ready to pour some countertops for my new apartment and this instructable is a incredibly helpful. I already have the Cheng books, thanks to the comments here. <br> I read every comment (so far) and took notes. I figure that these orgnized notes from your collective wisdom could be helpful to others, so I put them up on my blog. This is no replacement for reading everything yourself! I am sure to have missed things and new comments come in all the time. <a href="http://sputterlyutter.blogspot.com/2011/09/collective-instructables-wisdom.html">Here's a link to my notes</a>.
Thanks, that is a helpful resource for everyone who comes here. Good luck with your project and really glad everyone here was able to help!
Hi I built a concrete desk following your instructions, and have posted it as an Instructable! I have referenced your great Instructable in it, you can find it here: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Polished-Concrete-Desk/">https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Polished-Concrete-Desk/</a><br/>Thanks for the detailed instructions, they helped me greatly in my project!<br/><br/>
This posting has won today&#39;s &quot;I Made It&quot; Challenge. For winning you will receive a 3 month pro membership!<br /> <br /> Thanks for using instructables!<br /> <br /> https://www.instructables.com/community/June-is-I-Made-It-Challenge-Month-Win-a-Pro-Mem/
Great work!
Great Job! It's awesome to see people that have gotten help from my instructable and thanks for sharing.
hi thanks so much for posting this instructable!<br/>I used this instructable as the main inspiration for doing my own concrete countertops as part of a larger (super-cheap-ass) kitchen reno.<br/><br/>i've attached a couple pics and the link to the public facebook gallery in which I have a few more pics of the process. <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.new.facebook.com/album.php?aid=23879&l=1d07e&id=624811215">kitchen reno gallery</a><br/>
BTW, I saw from your Facebook account you're in Atlanta...I'm just a hop, skip, and a jump to Chattanooga...
And I'm in Columbus! :D
Hi Is that Columbus GA?? We are in Cols Ga and doing some concrete cabinets. M
Yes, we are talking about Chatanooga and Atlanta, so I think I mean Columbus Georgia.
And I'm in Nashville! :D
Nasville isn't in Georgia.... :D
Driving directions to Nashville, GA 156 mi – about 3 hours 18 mins Columbus, GA 1. Head south on Veterans Pkwy toward 9th St 0.7 mi 2. Turn left at GA-520 E/Victory Dr Continue to follow GA-520 E 78.4 mi 3. Merge onto GA-520 E/US-82 E via the ramp to Camilla/Tifton/I-75 8.2 mi 4. Take the GA-520 E/US-82 E ramp to Sylvester/Tifton 0.4 mi 5. Turn left at Clark Ave/GA-520/US-82 5.0 mi 6. Take the ramp onto GA-520 E/Sylvester Rd/US-82 E Continue to follow GA-520 E/US-82 E 32.3 mi 7. Turn right onto the US-401 S/I-75 S ramp 0.4 mi 8. Merge onto I-75 S 12.6 mi 9. Take exit 49 for Kinard Bridge Rd toward Lenox 0.2 mi 10. Turn left at Kinard Bridge Rd 5.0 mi 11. Continue on Alpha-Lenox Hwy/Coy Hancock Rd 3.3 mi 12. Turn right at GA-125 9.1 mi 13. Turn left to stay on GA-125 0.2 mi 14. Turn right at US-129 430 ft Nashville, GA
OMG THERE IS A NASHVILLE GEORGIA?! I'm sooo sorry! I didn't know it existed! LOL!
Great job on your tops! Now keep creating! Here are some photos of my most resent backsplash project in Park City Utah
Romac, your kitchen is beautiful! I wish I had the skill and patience to do all of that. The curve is very nice, too. (And that Buddha you carved is phenomenal: most impressive).
EXCELLENT JOB! Your kitchen looks fantastic and it's great to hear that my little project inspired someone else to use concrete for countertops. I really like that you poured it in place as well - I was too nervous knowing that water would be flying all over the place. That $60 worth of concrete and some elbow grease increased the value of your kitchen by several thousand dollars. Thanks for all the pics!
<p>Kitchen really amazing. Interesting if it can integrate well into various kitchens, saw a similar cuisine in Kitchenpt.com, interesting Outeda, really impressive about the honor.</p>
<p>wow, just wow!</p>
<p>challenge accepted!</p>
<p>i cant get quickrete 5000 or cheng pro formula what can i use in a basic concrete mix of 1 part water 2 part cement 3 part sand</p><p>are super plasticizers absolutely necessary or glass fibres? </p>
<p> I did an out door bar table top with concrete &quot;INPLACE pouring &quot; due to its size ( 2ft x 10ft) , top is uneven, by the time I finished pouring it was late and concrete was not enough to trowel to level so did a quick and dirty job of finishing it off ,( used a mix of GFRC and quickrete 5000 Mix about less than 2 inch thick,</p><p>after a week i tried leveling the top with another layer of sand cement ready mix ( no gravel ) and wasted 4 hrs topping and leveling the table but next day I checked it was popping off :( , just did not stick to the tabletop so frustrated I just scraped off the top . I think My selection of the cement ready mix was wrong . </p><p>Any one can give some pointers on which Portland cement with plasticizer , additive etc would work wonders to level this would be just great </p><p>This is my first countertop using concrete, don't want to give up. not so easy... </p><p>And yes of all the places I though this was a great forum to get some ideas on projects for a low budget DIY person with plenty of enthusiasm </p>
<p>I am planning to fix mine too.. great ideas, I benefited to it yey :D</p>
<p>I have poured 64 sq feet on counter top. I have some ruff spots in the counter top and I am at a loss. I sealed it but the ruff spots look really blouchey. I really like the gray look . If i polish the counter top will that get rid of the ruff spots and smooth it out? I sanded the edges with 220 but its still rough also. Please help me!!</p>
<p>I was pleasantly surprised. I visited this very Kitchen in Chattanooga, TN. The house got foreclosed on soon after this project was completed.</p>
<p>This is a great resource. I'm seriously considering making my own concrete countertop for our kitchen project. We have new custom cabinets of all 3/4 inch plywood construction, so I'm not concerned about weight and strength. My primary concern is that I want to do it in 1 piece, but our run of cabinets is 14 feet long. The counter would be 1.5-1.75 inches thick, standard 2-foot width. It would have 2 major cutouts in it for the sink and cooktop. I planned to use no aggregate in my mix, just solid concrete, and use a welded steel mesh (cattle panel) for the interior reinforcement. Is this feasible/possible in your opinion? Thanks!</p>
Thanks, dburns. I really wouldn't recommend doing a very long stretch like that without stress fractures, especially since you've got 2 major cutouts in it.
<p>Thanks for the recommendation. What would you think if I waited to do the cutouts until the countertop was in place?</p>
<p>Very very good post. You've included <br>all the great information in this post. Thanks a million for that. Cheers! </p><p>&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theclippingpathindia.com/clipping-path-service.html&quot;&gt;Clipping Path service&lt;/a&gt;</p>
<p>brilliant, thanks for sharing!</p>
<p>Your IBLE inspired me to make my own and I have referred back to it many times. It helped me realize that I could <strong>make</strong> something wonderful and functional that I would, in the past, only have hoped to purchase.</p>
Is this house in Chattanooga? I think I saw the MLS on it. Love that neighborhood
This makes sense. The glue gun to the nose does not. LOL. Awesome thanks for posting.
I agree. Indeed Solid Countertops are strong, non-porous and has wide range of designs as well. Will definitely use it for my <a href="http://www.myinstalledcountertops.com" rel="nofollow">Kitchen Counters</a>.
I agree. Indeed Solid Countertops are strong, non-porous and has wide range of designs as well. Will definitely use it for my <a href="http://www.myinstalledcountertops.com" rel="nofollow">Kitchen Countertops</a>.
Looks great. I noticed some coins embedded in the top. How did you wet grind the concrete without grinding off the images on the coins as well?
Cheng Pro-Formula mix uses Quickcrete 5000 Commercial Grade, Can I use white Portland cement? What would the cement - sand ratio be? I want to use white Portland cement for a truer color when I add color.
Good illustration. One question about crushed glass. You said we could crush our own glass, is this a special type of glass or just my regular "Ice house bottle". If it is the regular glass, will not end up being dangerous once on the counter. Please advise on this, i will try this by the end of next week.
You can use any crushed glass - remember, the glass will be exactly the same level as the top since the countertop is poured upside down. If the mix is vibrated properly, the cement will fill in any voids around the glass. Then you will be grinding and polishing it all down, so it's all smooth.
Do you have any hints on how to clean the labels off glass that's already been through the crusher at the recycling center? They'll give me all the glass that I can use, but it's still got the labels on it. <br>Thanks for the great instructable!
You can get label remover from a brewing supply store. <br> <br>I use dish soap and &quot;oxi clean&quot; when I need to remove labels. <br> <br>If it is before the crushing I pour &quot;oxi clean&quot; into the dish washer and run the bottles through. <br> <br>Remember to remove the labels that have fallen off before your wife tries to use the machine again. <br> <br>You might try an over night soak of hot water and &quot;oxi clean&quot; and dish soap for your crushed glass and then a rinse off with a hose the next day.
soak the crushed glass in diesel, this will destroy the glue of the label. then in a bucket wash with detergent and rinse in a sieve. if there is still paper and glue then simply get a sheet of fine steel mesh or metal sieve and hold it over a flame to burn it away. then wash again.
Don't know if this will help but I use Goo Gone, it will remove labels, glue, chewing gum etc. You can buy it almost anywhere. <br><br><br>http://www.googone.com/<br><br>
This is probably to late to help you, but for anyone who's worried about super sharp broken glass, cleaning it, etc. just get a bag of sand, mix it with the glass, and run the mix in your cement mixer for a few hours. this should knock off / round over the sharp edges and clean off any labels/residue on the glass. obviously, the longer you let it run, the more rounded it will get.

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