This is a super simple project that has been a huge hit. Here's a quick overview. Check it.
Our nephew wanted a TechDeck half-pipe for his birthday this year. We thought we'd kick it up and build him his very own real concrete fingerboard bowl park. The goal was to create a unique park from materials we had on hand. At 60 lbs., this park weighs a wee bit more than our nephew.
Materials:
tub/form (we used scrap 3/4" plywood and spray glued some plastic film to it)
bowl(s)
caulking
styrofoam
ready-mix concrete
spray silicone or some type of mold release
and of course, duct tape
Our nephew wanted a TechDeck half-pipe for his birthday this year. We thought we'd kick it up and build him his very own real concrete fingerboard bowl park. The goal was to create a unique park from materials we had on hand. At 60 lbs., this park weighs a wee bit more than our nephew.
Materials:
tub/form (we used scrap 3/4" plywood and spray glued some plastic film to it)
bowl(s)
caulking
styrofoam
ready-mix concrete
spray silicone or some type of mold release
and of course, duct tape
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Signing UpStep 1: 1. Create the form
Create a negative mold of your desired park shape.
We built a tub from scrap 3/4 plywood and spray glued some plastic film to it. To create the bowl shapes, we used 1 larger wooden bowl and 2 smaller glass bowls. The transitions/gaps where shaped from a few chunks of styrofoam and duct tape.
Note: The mold needs to be smooth, so the concrete can release when cured.
We used caulking to make smooth transitions and rounded corners. Use your finger and a little water to smooth out generous beads/globs of caulking. Let the caulking dry overnight before pouring concrete.
We built a tub from scrap 3/4 plywood and spray glued some plastic film to it. To create the bowl shapes, we used 1 larger wooden bowl and 2 smaller glass bowls. The transitions/gaps where shaped from a few chunks of styrofoam and duct tape.
Note: The mold needs to be smooth, so the concrete can release when cured.
We used caulking to make smooth transitions and rounded corners. Use your finger and a little water to smooth out generous beads/globs of caulking. Let the caulking dry overnight before pouring concrete.
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Another layer of mesh along the bottom, and/or some rods, to reinforce it from the bottom as well.
One way to use less 'crete, (and make it lighter too,) is hide chunks of Styrofoam in the thick parts. Just make sure they don't surface when you tap the mold during the air-purge routine. Tying them to the mesh may help. Another way is to screw small boards across the top of the mold, with legs holding down the Styro-chunks thru the 'crete. When done air-purging, unscrew said boards, remove the legs, and fill in their "footprints".
Or let the Styro-chunks surface (cut holes the bottom re-mesh for this), and remove them after the 'crete's set.
If you wish to reduce the amount of 'crete needed (or get more volume), but don't care about weight, use rocks from your backyard in place of the "Styro-chunks".
You can make your concrete a different color by using pigment. Pigment may be pricey, so you may want to leave that out.
http://www.directcolors.com/concretepigment/
or buy it at a hardware store.
Wonderful work masters just wondering how heavy is the concrete park?
This would be a perfect excuse to buy a tech deck!! =)
Thank You
-M
But seriously I want one of those!
hey this looks good, i like it :D