Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 7Mount it on the wall
Now that you have this killer Concrete Lightbulb Wall Hook, it's time to mount it into the wall. The steps here are fairly simple.
1) Find the stud. This wants a wood stud in the wall. There are multiple ways to find a wood stud, I'm using a cheapie stud finder.
2) Drill the hole. Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill a hole 1.5" deep into the wall.
3) Screw it in. The hole is big enough that you can can screw it in, but the bite is good enough that it can hold just about anything you want to hang off it. Heavy overcoats, small children, whatever strikes your fancy.
4) Hang your hat. Or you could use it as a hat hook. It's all good.
1) Find the stud. This wants a wood stud in the wall. There are multiple ways to find a wood stud, I'm using a cheapie stud finder.
2) Drill the hole. Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill a hole 1.5" deep into the wall.
3) Screw it in. The hole is big enough that you can can screw it in, but the bite is good enough that it can hold just about anything you want to hang off it. Heavy overcoats, small children, whatever strikes your fancy.
4) Hang your hat. Or you could use it as a hat hook. It's all good.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
concrete does not air dry like clay. it is a chemical reaction that causes it to harden, similar to an epoxy.
in fact during the construction and repair of bridges, oil wells, hydrolic cement is used and it will cure underwater. remember the well repair in the gulf of mexico?
the curing in a light bulb would be near perfect and if left long enough it would have the same tensil strength as granite or even greater.
I've made quite a few of these, using about 6 different types/styles of light bulbs and they all have come out looking beautiful. This has been one of the most Fun istructibles I've found and played with. Top Notch!
;)
on the setting of concrete.....if bulb is clean,,,including no soap, should be no problem, colord concrete could be used,
mixing yr concrete with fine sand thet is rough cracked rather than round aggregate gives better bond, a small amount of Elmers carpentry glue, acts as a bonding agent......all concrete bonding agents are take-offs on this stuff.
the dryer the mix, the harder the set...thet is, the water cement ratio.
i'd make it pourable, with some Elmers for elasticity. and use a squeeze bag...like cake decorators do.
now if yr placing a lag screw, it will not stay in place with too wet a concrete..
i would gently tapp the sides , and bottem of the bulb....vibration lets the air out, also brings water to top....because fines settle.
then i would take a blastic bottle cap.punch a starter hole in the centre, screw in the lag bolt, and work it down, tapping the bulb....it should fit right flush, wipe off excess and let set.........portland cement takes 28 days to set....but it will always draw moisture....because it is a fired calcium based material....it never quits setting...the original portlands found in ancient diggings still is working.
i recommend using a sealer too''''i do this often, or a clear epoxy.
why?
because it is one of the most mis-understod health hazards around.
sitting on cement, even walking on untreated floors....and living in cement base-ments thet have not been sealed, will draw the moisture and life force from the body....breathing in cement dust too is not right....but use gloves, the advice on glass breaking using heat sounds ok....but why not try hot water, boiling--then cold....i have not yet....i wish you well
it's too cold 4 me right now....gotta let this one wait
the use of the filiment?
to keep the thetons from disturbing the e-meters!
Monitors will shatter.
Everyone is entitled to their opinions.
This link will show you how to take it apart, but be careful they contain mercury