Introduction: Construction of Two Portuguese Style Dinghies (Small Boats)

Picture of Construction of Two Portuguese Style Dinghies (Small Boats)

This project covers the construction of two rowboats that are primarily constructed with three sheets of plywood. The design is not mine. I used a design by Hannu Vartiala, a very generous boat enthusiast who has graciously provided boat plans free of charge on his website.

This project can be found at:
http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/dinghy1/simboii.htm

This is a step-by-step documentation and explanation of the project found on that site. I've tried to simplify some of Hannu's steps for laymen like myself. You will need to refer to that page as you read this Instructable. I won't repeat Hannu's instructions step by step since this is really his design. I'll just explain how I did it, what problems I ran in to and how I got around them.

If the link to Hannu's website ever changes (I discovered that it had) please Google Hannu Vartiala and his new website should come up.

This project tool me about 3 days for the first boat and 2 days for the second.

I will also include tips for oar construction, which Hannu did not cover in his project.

Step 1: Cut the Materials

Picture of Cut the Materials

I purchased 1/4" exterior plywood in 4x8 foot sheets.

With the first sheet of plywood you can cut out two side pieces and two transoms (the back end of the boat). Measure carefully and you'll be fine. Refer to Hannu's diagrams for dimensions. The first boat I made was the larger of the two.
I used a skill saw and sawhorses to cut the sides and transoms out of the wood.
Since I was already cutting, I used the last two pieces of plywood to cut the sides for the second, smaller boat sides. I kept the larger remains of both sheets of ply to cut the bottom of the boat from.

To save yourself some time in the long run, I suggest you order your oarlocks now. By the time they reach you the boat may be ready.
I found a decent deal at www.shipstore.com, specifically this item:
http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/ATT/ATT91463.html

This turned out to be the only real hardware I couldn't make myself.

Step 2: Connect Sides at the Bow

Picture of Connect Sides at the Bow

Cut a piece of 1" by 1" wood (I used 1" or 3/4" trim I found a Home Depot...in the TRIM section) to run from the bottom of the side piece to the top.
Align the front edges to the piece of trim. I used 1" drywall screws to screw from the outside of the sides in to the trim piece.
I had also set the side pieces propped up on my sawhorses.
The side pieces are almost at a 90 degree angle from one another. Align them as well as you can as this is one of the most important joints you will make.

Step 3: Cut Your "Ribs" and Prep for Bending.

Picture of Cut Your "Ribs" and Prep for Bending.

Cut three pieces of wood to be used for "ribs" that will help you shape the boat.
I cut scrap 2X4s I had in half lengthwise.
The short rib for the front of the boat is 34", the center rib is 46" and the back rib is 43". Hannu suggests angling the cuts to help fit them in to the boat. I did not do this on the fist boat, but tried it on the second. If you know how to cut angles, give it a try. Might make things easier.

I set the two sides on the ground for ease.
For this first boat, I was alone when trying to bend the sides. Bad idea. Get someone to help you out. In this case I used these straps I had. I looped them over the sides so that as I tightened them the ends of the boat would come together.

Also note that in the second boat, below, I soaked the sides in water for a while before doing this step. I highly reccommend doing that. Hannu also has ideas for how to bend wood using a heat gun.

Now you're prepped. The next step is adding the ribs and bending the plywood.

Step 4: Bend That Boat!

Picture of Bend That Boat!

This is the most difficult step.
Mark the locations on the sides of the boat where you will be screwing in the ribs. The first rib, E, will be 30" from the bow. The second, F, will be 56" from the bow. the third rib, G, will be 80" from the bow. (See Hannu's diagrams)
Mark the locations on both sides of the boat.
I screwed all of the ribs to one side of the boat. To get them started. Use long, strong screws. I think I used 2 1/2" wood or drywall screws.

*Note: At this point I want to note a tip that may help you in the long run. I did this on the second boat. Screw in more wood where the transom will end up. I.e., rip a 2X4 in half and attach it verticall to the back ends of both sides. This will end up giving you something to screw the transom to once you get to that point. Otherwise, I have no idea how one is supposed to screw the transom to the sides of the boat.

Now. Carefully bend the side in. Start some screws on the exterior of the boat, and as you tighten in the sides, screw in rib E. Repeat for ribs F and G. They get progressively more difficult to bend in.

After you get the last rib in place, you put the transom on the back and screw it in as well.
You'll note in my pictures that I ended up adding the blocks of wood to the end of the sides as I noted above in order to get something to screw the transom to.

Once you get that transom screwed in, the boat is pretty well stuck together.
I added in some pictures of where my hull started to crack and splinter along rib E. I figured I could sand it down and repair it with fiberglass. Again, soak your wood as I do in boat #2.

Step 5: Closeup of Screwed Boat.

Picture of Closeup of Screwed Boat.

These two shots are just showing what the boat looked like after it was all screwed together with the ribs and transom.
Do you arms hurt yet? Mine sure did.
Note the blocks of wood at the back. Again, rip a 2X4 in half and screw it to the sides. That'll give you a place to screw to. (See boat #2)

Step 6: Cut the Bottom of the Boat.

Picture of Cut the Bottom of the Boat.

Place the sides and ribs on top of the excess plywood you have. Trace out the bottom of the boat on that ply and cut it out with a jigsaw.
As you can see with this boat bottom, I had a very hard time making my boat symmetrical. One side is almost straight. I was pretty concerned at this point. But pressed on. I mean, what could I do at this point anyway? The reason this was so skewed was because of the cracking earlier when I bent the sides around the ribs. Again, soak your ply and you may avoid this problem.

Flip the boat over and start using 1" screws to screw the bottom to the bottom of the sides of the boat. I started from the bow and worked my way back.

For some reason the first boat was very easy to do this to, but the second boat was a pain in the neck.

For this boat I spaced the screws fairly far apart so that I could fiberglass between the screw heads, let that fiberglass dry, then take out the screws and finally do a second pass through to fiberglass over the places the screws had been. (next step)

Step 7: The Wonderful World of Fiberglass.

Picture of The Wonderful World of Fiberglass.

I should say, the Messy World of Fiberglass. This step has several parts to it and a lot of notes.

First, use duct tape (our favorite tool) to tape the seams on the INSIDE of the boat. This will keep the resin from oozing in through the seams. Gives it a nice flat surface inside too. Don't worry too much about big gaps between the bottom and the sides of the boat. The resin will fill in gaps.

Always use good gloves when working with fiberglass resin. And wear a long sleeved shirt and pants when dealing with the cloth. I used these black, rubberized, gloves I found at Home Depot. They worked great because I could handle the resin directly and I could flake off the dry resin from the gloves between batches. Thin rubber gloves tend to rip apart when smoothing on the resin.

Ok. Hannu's instructions explain to use "Glass Tape". I think that means fiberglass tape. (European style?) After searching the Internet for "glass tape" I figured it didn't mean much but fiberglass. So. I went to Home Depot (Homer's) and bought two 128 oz fiberglass resin kits (has the fiberglass and hardener) and two big packs of fiberglass cloth.
Two 128 oz. kits was too much. But you will need at least 1 of those. Probably more. So either plan to make multiple trips or buy more than you need, keep the reciept and return the unused stuff later.

Also, buy a few of the plastic measuring cups that Homer's sells in the paint department. They have ounces on the side. The resin has a certain, tiny, amount of hardener to mix into the resin. I used one cup only to measure the resin in to. I used 2 or 3 others to pour the measured contents in to then to mix and use. I had several of the mix and use containers because that stuff hardens FAST.

I used a plastic shot glass to measure the liquid hardener in to.

First I pre cut lengths of fiberglass strips. Long ones. About 2 or 3 inches wide. I put them where they would be resin'd into place.

I mixed my resin in 7 oz. batches. More than that and it would harden before I could use the whole batch. My recipe was 7 oz of resin and 98 drops of hardener. (MY_NOTE: use your "hardener measuring cup" aka my plastic shot glass or some other disposable, clear container and put in 98 drops, which is 7 drops per ounce according to the instructions, into that. Then make a mark on that measuring cup so you know where 98 drops comes up to. Then reuse that cup over and over only for hardener.)
Make sense?

So now you have 7 oz. of resin in one cup and 98 pre-measured drops of hardener in a smaller cup. Pour both in to a third cup.

Now. Mix that stuff up. Then, add FLOUR. No kidding. Thicken the resin up with either sawdust (which is what I used in the first boat) or flour. And mix. I found that sawdust was too granular. You can see in this first boat that the seams are brown. The sawdust paste was too chunky and was a pain to smooth out and sand. With the second boat I used flour and it was so much smoother. Use flour.

Order of fiberglassing:
Outside first. After taping the inside of the boat, glob on the resin on the seam on the outside. Lay the fiberglass strip in to the resin, and cover over with more resin. Smooth it out.
Once you have finished all exterior seams, then remove the inside duct tape.
Then glob on resin on all seams inside the boat and lay fiberglass strips in to those and cover those with resin and smooth.

You will notice that the resin hardens pretty quickly.

That was pretty verbose. On to the next step.

Step 8: Sanding Fiberglass. Yuck.

Picture of Sanding Fiberglass.  Yuck.

After all of your fiberglassing is done, you are ready to sand and it smooth.

Because your fiberglass is now hardened and holding the boat together, you can now remove the ribs. If necessary, take out the screws and patch the holes with little pieces of fiberglass.

I have a little Ryobie orbital sander. I used 40 grit paper...a LOT of it, to sand the seams of the boat. I think I used at least 6 packs of the stuff between the two boats. Probably more.

When sanding fiberglass, please always use the following safety precautions:
1) Wear a respirator. You do NOT want microscopic shards of glass in your lungs. Very bad.
2) Wear goggles. You don't want it in your eyes either. Here, I sport Wonka goggles.
3) Wear long sleeved shirts and pants. I figured this out the hard way. You'll itch for days if you do not do this. It's quite uncomfortable.
4) Wear gloves. Same reason.
5) In this picture, I have my jackhammer ear protectors on. the sander is quite loud on 1/4" plywood. I reccommend this.
(Incidentally, I have retrofitted these ear protectors with headphones. I listen to audiobooks when I work. www.audible.com is a great resource for this.)

Ok. Safety taken care of. Sand away. Just make all the seams smooth.

Step 9: A Place to Sit.

Picture of A Place to Sit.

Right about where the middle rib, E, was I inserted my seat.
I cut a 2X4 in half lengthwise and screwed each half to the side of the boat, rounding the tops for effect.
Between I screwed a piece of 2X4 across the span. The top of that 2X4 is about 5 1/2" from the bottom of the boat.
The seat is two 2X6's I had laying around (note the new deck....leftovers.) I had no pieces long enough to go all the way from front to back, so I screwed the 2X6's into the back transom and into the 2X4 seat cross beam. They kid of float out beyond that. I figured that's ok since I'll mostly be sitting right in the middle anyway.

The 2X6 seat planks are about an 1 1/2" apart to "provide comfort for the coccygeal bone". And it does work.

Also note in the pictures that I added those holes in the corners near the transom for handles. Those were rather tricky and I improved on those in boat #2.

That last picture has the beginnings of waterproofing. I had leftover deck waterproofing. I slathered a coat of that on to the wood. May have been superfluous though. I think pain and polyurethane might have been sufficient.

Everywhere I added screws I had to also add fiberglass patches and sanded those for waterproofing.

Step 10: Gunwales - Outer Trim

Picture of Gunwales - Outer Trim

I used 1" drywall screws to screw in the 1" X 1" trim all along the top lip of the boat. Again, soak this stuff thoroughly in water before you try to bend it. Mine did crack some. It looks great and adds some strength to the boat.

Step 11: Paint!

Picture of Paint!

This part took some time. I mean, what colors are we painting this thing?!
I used regular ol spray paint. Blue outside, yellow trim and green inside.
I put a layer of polyurethane all over it to give it a nice glossy look and to water seal it.
Because I live in Colorado, I doubt my little boat will get too much use. I think if you were really going to use this thing a lot you might look into more durable paints. I had a really difficult time even finding any information about "boat or marine" paint online.
Any ideas anyone?

Safety:
Use a respirator and gloves. Goggles won't hurt either.

Step 12: Oars?!

Picture of Oars?!

This is an odd step.
First off, I didn't order my "oarlocks" or "oars" until I was about done with the boat. So I'm noting to do that in step one or so. Here, I'm trying to imagine how they'll fit...while listening to an audio book.

For this step, I'll just say that you shouldn't buy cheap oars. I bought some $16 Sevylor oars that telescope. They're pathetic. Save the cash, folks. I bought these, and then made my own. (Which is later in the instructable.) The home made ones worked a million times better. The little ones kept unscrewing and loosening. Had no leverage. Too short. They didn't fit the oarlocks either, therefore I tried to bulk them up with hot glue and rope. 'Twas ok, but still pathetic.

Anyway. I used another half a 2X4 and screwed it to the side of the boat about where I thought the oar should be. They're about 12" from the sternmost (the back of the boat) edge of the little seat crossbrace. A hole in the top of that block of wood holds the oarlock.

Make sure you attach that block of wood really well. That's where you'll be pulling all of the force of motion on to the boat. If that thing breaks off in the middle of a lake, you're going to have a heck of a time getting to shore. I used screws and liquid nails.

Step 13: Ok, Let's Review. OR - Boat 2...What I Learned.

Picture of Ok, Let's Review.  OR - Boat 2...What I Learned.

I had pretty much finished the first boat. Now it was time to make one for my wife. ;)

Of course the second time around it's much easier. And faster.

Note here I SOAKED the wood in water. (A tarp held by scrap wood.) for a while until I was ready to begin. Helps a lot!

We both pulled the sides over the ribs together and got a very nice bend to the wood. In the photos below you can see how I outlined the bottom on the extra 1/4" ply.

Also, this boat is the "smaller" design from Hannu's plans.

Note I added the 1" trim to the back of the sides to screw the transom to. Much easier.

In this boat, I used all 1" screws and left them all in. In Boat #1 I took the screws out and fiberglassed over them. Here I left the screws in and fiberglassed over the heads. The advantage is that I didn't have to make 2 passes witht he fiberglass, just went over it all at once.

Step 14: Adding the Bottom of Boat 2

Picture of Adding the Bottom of Boat 2

As I mentioned, this bottom was a pain to add.
It didn't want to bend...or fit. There were some large (1" large) gaps in the seams. But no worries, the fiberglass resin filled them in.

Step 15: More Fiberglass and Sanding.

Picture of More Fiberglass and Sanding.

We've alredy covered the steps of mixing and applying fiberglass. Only note that this boat used flour and not sawdust. The result is a much smoother seam.

Step 16: Seats and Paint Revisited.

Picture of Seats and Paint Revisited.

In this boat I made the seat a bit wider. A total of three 2X4s. Two in the middle and two halveson the outer sides. 'Twere the only scraps I had left that fit the bill. Same seat design otherwise as in boat #1.

This time, audiobook in ear, I did not prep the wood with deck treatment, but just applied paint. My wife wanted custom colors instead of spray paint.

Note in that second picture I used rope instead of wood for some handles on the back of the boat. Much easier to put in.

Step 17: Oars. Make Them Yourself. [And Do Not Shop at Outdoor World]

Picture of Oars.  Make Them Yourself.  [And Do Not Shop at Outdoor World]

The oars I bought were pathetic. But I'm from Colorado (Denver). Not really a boating area either. REI didn't have any oars. I went to Outdoor World (Bass Pro Shop) and they didn't have any either, despite what their website said.

(Side note about Outdoor World. I was disgusted that they had so many dead animals all over their store. And they've taken the liberty of killing hundreds of year old trees to decorate their store. I don't consider myself necessarily an environmentalist or an animal activist, but this place is grossly using natural resources and indescriminantly killing animals only to decorate a STORE. A store like "Outdoor World" is the anthesis of everything nature and the outdoors is. They are consumptive and irresponsible to the outdoors and the life therein. Please. Don't shop at places like this. One glance at any Bass Pro Shop or Outdoor World will explain what I mean.)

Anyway. The process for making oars is thus:
Use a piece of paper ( I had some tar paper for roofing available) and fold some in half. My first set of oar paddles were 18" long. I suggest some a bit longer. I free hand sketched half of an oar shape. Unfold and trace on to 1/2" plywood. Cut those out with a jigsaw.

Then I ripped a 2X4 in half (sound familiar yet?) and cut a 1/2" notch in to it. Several inches up. Use your judgement. Has to be pretty strong. After all, this is another point of force and momentum. If the paddles break off the oar shaft, you're stuck in the middle of a lake.

Use Liquid Nails in the notch and put the paddle into the oar shaft. Then carefully put some 1" screws through both sides of the shaft into the paddle.

I then cut some of the corners off of the shaft to start making it round. I made a second set of oars, larger ones, and I cut the edges before I notched them. Either way.
After that I sanded the shafts and paddles with 40 grit sandpaper.

Then I sanded all of it with 150 grit sandpaper. That made it really smooth.

With the first set of oars I coated them all the way with deck waterproofer. That made the really smooth finish I had accomplished very rough. Unfortunately.

The second set of oars I made I only coated the bottom half of the shaft and paddles with deck sealant. the handles I left very smooth and untreated. I figure, as much as I row, those handles will not get wet enough to warp. And I'd rather keep them smooth.

Step 18: Ok, Let's See How They Do.

Picture of Ok, Let's See How They Do.

I've not seen an Instructable this long before. This is the end. I promise. (My first Instructable)

First photo is a comparison of the purchased oars versus the home made ones.

The last weekend of June, 2006 we took the boats out to Stanley Lake in Denver (Westminster). I strapped the boats to the top pf the Jeep with those handy straps I have. (I have 4 purchased from JAX in Fort Collins...or any army surplus store. Thye have been handy millions of times.)

Got to the lake. I first tested my oars and they worked wonderfully. Nice, long, strokes. Got deep into the water and had a lot of thrust. I then tried the store bought oars. Total dissappointmet. In fact, I was out on the water and my oar lock was too loose. bloop. One of the nuts in the oar lock came off and sank to the bottom of the lake. I made it to shore and found some nice people with tools and a spare nut.

(Lesson: take some basic tools and spare hardware. This is a low tech boat, yet still has mechanical parts.)

We had a great time in the boats. The smaller one was intentionally made that way to nest inside the bigger for transportation and storage. I have some video I may put up later of the boats in action. The smaller boat did tend to be a bit unstable if you lurched to one side or the other. Just stay balanced.

That's it. Happy Boating! And thanks Hannu!

Step 19: Updates:


8/15/2011 - I will post any updates and notes on this step. 
I came across this via Make Magazine's Bloghttp://www.safarana.org/Safarana/Do_It_Yourself/Entries/2011/8/9_Wooden_outboard_motor_powered_by_a_cordless_drill.html The last time I took out my dinghies in July I swore I was bringing a trolling motor next time!  This looks like a great candidate!

Comments

Erfunden made it! (author)2014-11-10

I started building one of these boats 6 years ago or so. I made a horrible mess with the fiberglass and set it aside for a while while I figures out how to fix it (an angle grinder was the answer. Finally finished it. I also cut a mattress to fit in it since I needed a bed for my daughter.

Now, unfortunately, My wife won't let me take it out on the water. Guess I have to make a second one!

vvvieira (author)2014-06-16

Very nice instructable, congratulations.
I guess you would like to know more about the origin of the boat's "style" - Portugal. So, I invite you to take a look at http://acer-pt.org/vmdacer/index.php?option=com_co... (sorry, Portuguese only - check http://goo.gl/yWnimv for a Google translation).
The correct name is "batela", and its primarily use was to transport people from land to anchored ships, and also, as you can see in the site, to go to the "pesqueiras" - fishing channels on rivers, namely the Minho river.
Nowadays they usually use small one-piece fiberglass boats, and this man is one of the last to know how to build this kind of boat.
The finishing is made with rubber paint - no need for beauty, I guess ;)
It took 4 hours (2 X 2 days) for a man, with the help of two others, to transform 9 pine boards into a boat.

pmarkwort (author)2014-06-15

Horrible Work.

quinault (author)2014-05-14

fit to sail in sea? seems easy to build.

rook999 (author)quinault2014-05-14

Technically you could take it to sea. But they are very small and in rough weather I think you would have a problem.

MandalorianMaker (author)2014-01-08

if I may point out when you hunt and kill a trophy animal you should have it taxidermed as a momento i mean its not like they waste the meat they eat it and if your going to a hunting store expect that. p.s. my dad has several "dead deer" mounts. .p.p.s. you sound like a environmentalist.

rook999 (author)MandalorianMaker2014-01-09

Now I wonder if maybe some of those animals may have died from natural causes. Who knows? I'm not sure where they got the animals. But they definitely promote the killing of animals.
I suppose I am an environmentalist. I consider myself a steward of the planet. At least I try to be.

msminnamouse (author)2013-09-03

Thanks, I won't shop at Bass Pro Shop. I'm not surprised because they're also very fond of selling electric shock collars for dogs. When people kill animals simply for fun, there's not much they won't do.

thinkscott (author)2013-08-14

Two things about understanding Hannu's diagrams: 1) reading his instructions above the diagram help in knowing where to start the measurement to a certain point, 2) he gives the distances in inches-and-eighths so 18" 4 means eighteen and four eighths inches, or 18 1/2 " In case you didn't spot them, when Hannu gives the instructions and diagram for the sides he gives them first for the 8' boat and then for a 6' boat.

rook999 (author)2013-03-28

I don't have specific dimensions. I ended up buying a metric and standard tape measure from Home Depot so that I could follow along with Hannu's instructions. Both boats were large enough for one average adult to row in.

kjpwnage (author)2013-03-28

Can I get the dimensions of the smaller boat? I can't understand Hannu's diagrams for my life :/

stormy0314 (author)2010-09-16

The correct term for the front of the boat is the bow and the correct name for the "bow stick" is the stem. The back end is the stern and that back panel is called the transom. 12 years with the Navy and 40 years in and around the merchant marine plus having a hobby building boats and I never once heard the term prow used except with Viking ships of old. Prow is a lubbers term for bow though.

pfred2 (author)stormy03142012-06-09

If I built one of these I'd have to add a viking prow. A big carved dragon, that'd be cool!

stormy0314 (author)pfred22012-06-24

I am thinking of building a kayak for my daughter with a removable dragon head. I would make it removable for taking off if the wind got high enough to blow the kayak off course with the head in place.

rook999 (author)stormy03142010-11-24

LOL! Thanks!

Clayton H. (author)2010-08-10

I want to build this boat as a end of summer project, but I'm confused on how to read the diagrams on the other website. How are you suposed to read it? (like the height of the sides of the boat)

rook999 (author)Clayton H.2010-08-15

Refer to the other website. Hannu has his instructions all in the metric system. As an American I regret to admit I had a hard time converting to the metric system as well. I suggest investing in a metric/standard tape measure. That is, it has metric on one side of the tape and the "standard" system on the other side. It will help you convert the measurements. After doing this project, I am convinced that the "standard", or "Imperial" measurement system is silly. The rest of the world is metric, and Americans should just go with it. It's really much simpler.

pfred2 (author)rook9992012-06-09

I got your metric system right here for ya. 12.7x99mm my eye, that's Ma Deuce! She is 50 caliber through and through too. Yankee imperialism keeps the world free. Well, as free as it is ever going to be. Maybe if the rest of the world was more like us it'd be a better place?

Clayton H. (author)rook9992010-08-18

Thanks, I started building the boat around 12:00 and finished the outside fiberglassing about an hour ago. going to try to do the inside and gunwales before dark.

cammers (author)2011-12-28

Thanks for posting a great ible.

Not only have you inspired me to have a crack at building a boat of my own, but you also made some mistakes - saving me from doing the same. Thanks for including them.

I have just put my first coat of paint on the hull. Can't wait for sea trials. Hope she floats.

Here's a couple of ideas that worked for me and might help future makers:

1. Instead of the tie down strap to bend the sides, I just used rope and tightened it "spanish windlass" style, twisting the top and bottom parts of the rope with a stick. It worked really well tightening top and bottom evenly.

2. Just use resin and hardener for soaking the fibre-glass cloth or mat. There is no need to bulk it with saw dust. That just looks painful. Just paint some resin onto the timber, lay down the cloth, then dab more resin on to wet the cloth. Then use a roller to get the air out. The finish will be pretty smooth especially if you use a woven cloth.

3. To fill holes etc I made a putty from the fibre-glass resin and talcum powder. I found some in my wife's cupboard. It made my workshop smell like an Avon lady, but it works well. Just mix in enough to make a workable consistency.

4. Use Hannu's website. Both for instruction and inspiration. The gallery page has a lot of pictures from other makers and it's full of good ideas.

Thanks again. And to anyone tempted to try one for themselves: Just Do It!

cammers (author)cammers2012-01-02

Here are some pictures of my effort.

SIRJAMES09 (author)2011-07-07

personally I LOVE BASS PRO SHOPS(BPS) & would never shop anywhere else for all the fishing I do.

as far as killing trees to decorate the store, most if not all the trees that I have seen there, are fake trees...the animals are also MOSTLY fake. Fake meaning the heads & such are man made no real animals are killed and/or used to decorate their stores.

I know this because I used to work for BPS in the Headquarters in Springfield MO.
I say used to because stage 4 cancer destroyed any chance I ever had at holding any kind of job ever again.

jsadler1 (author)SIRJAMES092011-09-18

I pray for your recovery from such a horrid disease. If not recovery then perhaps some joy or other good will be at the end of that battle. So many have gone and yet we have failed to find an easy cure.

SIRJAMES09 (author)jsadler12011-09-19

TY Sir.
May Allah(swt) be with you always.

geenance (author)2011-09-18

So what is your best estimate as to the cost to build these boats?

Is it worth it? They look great and fun!

rook999 (author)geenance2011-09-18

I wish I would have kept closer count. It is also hard to say because I had many of the tools and supplies already. I would ball park $200. About $100 per boat. But it would vary from there.

I think it was worth it. If I were to do it again I may forego the oars and find a trolling motor on craigslist.

It also is better to have a place to use them available. It is hard to haul them out to a lake every time you want to use them.

If you do it, send along pictures!

ginchi1739 (author)2011-07-29

I built two of these several years ago out of regular 1/4 inch ply. Actually I used two layers of plywood. The finished product wasn't a great deal harder to handle than a one ply boat, and I could get both boats in the back of the pickup (turned on their sides). They will also work well with a small trolling motor, or a regular motor up to about 5 HP. The boats lend themselves easily to modifications. I am in the process of building another that I hope will be stronger and speedier than the other two.

SIRJAMES09 (author)2011-07-07

This looks a wee bit small for fishing, but then again, I'm claustrophobic.

I like the boat! you explained it well, the pics helped tie together any loose ends, & the safety tips, I love it!!!

this is a good boat for toying around in the water, I think maybe you could even add a 3.5 HP outboard (I would NOT go any larger than that tho). This was an enjoyable read.

I think it would be very easy to build a bigger boat based on what you have done here....

You did good!! TY for sharing.

Oh Yeah, if I came across a wee bit harsh about BPS, I appologize. It's just that BPS is my "go to" Store for all my fishing gear.

Easterro (author)2010-11-23

Thank you for the Instructable - it really fills in some information gaps in Hannu's instructions.

I was curious, how much epoxy did this project take? I'm curious what volume I should purchase.

rook999 (author)Easterro2010-11-24

Buy the big one. I used fiberglass, which has two parts to mix together. Home Depot sells a big metal can and a small can. I went through several small cans and finally sprang for the big can and used most of that. Start with the large amount. The amount it takes depends on how thick you lay it in and how wide you put it on and how many coats you put on. Hope that helps!

Easterro (author)rook9992010-11-24

Thanks, that is a big help. I'm starting one this weekend with a buddy. I'll send pics when it's done. Thanks again!

rook999 (author)Easterro2010-11-24

Good luck! Wear a respirator, goggles and clothes that cover your skin. That fiberglass is nasty stuff.

grjackson (author)2010-11-19

I've been meaning to get back on here for some time to thank you for your contribution.

I wasn't terribly confident in following through with this project so I went CHEAP CHEAP! lowest grade plywood and scrap lumber for everything else...

Once I had put the first boat together I was impressed - so I went whole hog with the quality of paint and adhesives I used - three seasons later it's still a sound water tight little rig.

I'd recommend this instructible as a first time boat building venture to anyone!

Thanks again.

rook999 (author)grjackson2010-11-24

Sweet! I'm glad it worked for you. I'd like to see pictures of your boat if you can share them.

grjackson (author)rook9992010-11-24

well this give you an idea of it's capacity - it wasn't a pleasure cruise - but it got us out to the sailboat - three adults and a bit of gear...

rook999 (author)grjackson2010-11-24

Wow! I had oars with mine so I couldn't fit other people in my boats, but with a trolling motor, I guess three could just fit in there. Don't rock the boat!

stormy0314 (author)2010-09-16

Forgot to say I did enjoy this "ible".

saastamo (author)2010-03-19

I would prefer talcum as a filler in epoxy. It is more inert than flour or sawdust.

Runnerdude (author)2009-11-26

Is it possible to sail with a right-triangle sail that has only a mast and sheet, no booms or sprits or anything?

TreeFrog (author)Runnerdude2010-01-05

Technically yes, but...

1) It will be really difficult to get the boat to behave in very light winds. There is nothing to hold the sail in the position you want, and you may well get tangled sheets, flogged by the mainsheet etc.

2) you'll probably find that the boat won't point very high into the wind (though a lack of centreboard will be far more of a problem at this point)

3) you don't really want the sail to be a flat triangle, you want the sail to be a curved shape (think of an aeroplane wing cross section). This isn't that hard to do, and you can experiment with plastic sheeting and gaffa tape.

So the answer is a cautious 'well you could..'  Honestly though for the price of a bit of old banister or equivalent and a few extra bits of rope, I'd probably stick with a boom. The extra effort making it would easily pay off in terms of faffing/ cursing time later.

kiffakitty (author)2009-08-23

does soaking the wood damage the inside?

rook999 (author)kiffakitty2009-08-25

No, not once you coat the inside of the boat/wood with some sort of sealant. The hot/warm water temporarily loosens the wood fibers so it can bend. Once it dries, you just coat the inside with some sort of sealant. In my case I used Deck Stain. Paint, or polyurethane or something better would be advisable.

fakedead50 (author)2009-07-31

What Do U Do About The Cracks On the Side Of The Boat

rbodell (author)2009-07-09

Like he said, wear long pants and shirt sleeves. tape the sleeves and pants legs around your ankles and wrists. Put a towel over your head and around your neck and tape it too. Any exposed skin cover with Vaseline. If you mess up and leave skin exposed, it will itch like you never itched before. rinse the area with alcohol first them cold water. NEVER HOT WATER. it opens the poors in your skin and the glass gets into them and it itches for days. Be especially careful about breathing the dust.

themonorail (author)2009-06-21

will the boat work if i don't sand the fiberglass down? i really don't have the finances for a mask and all that business.

rook999 (author)themonorail2009-06-22

It should. Try hard to keep the fiberglass smooth as you apply it and you wouldn't need much sanding. You could get away with hand sanding. If you mix something in to the fiberglass, use flour. The sawdust is what makes sanding necessary.

themonorail (author)rook9992009-06-23

great thanks. now about how much weight will this hold?

rook999 (author)themonorail2009-06-24

The boats will hold one full sized person about 250 lbs. More or less. Hope that helps!

stumppuller71 (author)2009-01-24

I like the smell of fiberglass....ha....hahaha.....haaaaaa...dizzy.......im high.......hahahahaaaaaaaa. Use a ventilated room or be outside when using that stuff or burn some brain cells....hmmmmm

thepelton (author)stumppuller712009-05-30

Eight miles high...

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Bio: I like to make stuff. Mostly I work and work on our fixxer-upper house. When I can, I do more exciting projects.
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