Construction of Two Portuguese Style Dinghies (Small Boats)

Construction of Two Portuguese Style Dinghies (Small Boats)
This project covers the construction of two rowboats that are primarily constructed with three sheets of plywood. The design is not mine. I used a design by Hannu Vartiala, a very generous boat enthusiast who has graciously provided boat plans free of charge on his website.

This project can be found at:
http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/dinghy1/simboii.htm

This is a step-by-step documentation and explanation of the project found on that site. I've tried to simplify some of Hannu's steps for laymen like myself. You will need to refer to that page as you read this Instructable. I won't repeat Hannu's instructions step by step since this is really his design. I'll just explain how I did it, what problems I ran in to and how I got around them.

If the link to Hannu's website ever changes (I discovered that it had) please Google Hannu Vartiala and his new website should come up.

This project tool me about 3 days for the first boat and 2 days for the second.

I will also include tips for oar construction, which Hannu did not cover in his project.
 
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Step 1Cut the materials

Cut the materials
I purchased 1/4" exterior plywood in 4x8 foot sheets.

With the first sheet of plywood you can cut out two side pieces and two transoms (the back end of the boat). Measure carefully and you'll be fine. Refer to Hannu's diagrams for dimensions. The first boat I made was the larger of the two.
I used a skill saw and sawhorses to cut the sides and transoms out of the wood.
Since I was already cutting, I used the last two pieces of plywood to cut the sides for the second, smaller boat sides. I kept the larger remains of both sheets of ply to cut the bottom of the boat from.

To save yourself some time in the long run, I suggest you order your oarlocks now. By the time they reach you the boat may be ready.
I found a decent deal at www.shipstore.com, specifically this item:
http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/ATT/ATT91463.html

This turned out to be the only real hardware I couldn't make myself.
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140 comments
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Dec 28, 2011. 4:03 AMcammers says:
Thanks for posting a great ible.

Not only have you inspired me to have a crack at building a boat of my own, but you also made some mistakes - saving me from doing the same. Thanks for including them.

I have just put my first coat of paint on the hull. Can't wait for sea trials. Hope she floats.

Here's a couple of ideas that worked for me and might help future makers:

1. Instead of the tie down strap to bend the sides, I just used rope and tightened it "spanish windlass" style, twisting the top and bottom parts of the rope with a stick. It worked really well tightening top and bottom evenly.

2. Just use resin and hardener for soaking the fibre-glass cloth or mat. There is no need to bulk it with saw dust. That just looks painful. Just paint some resin onto the timber, lay down the cloth, then dab more resin on to wet the cloth. Then use a roller to get the air out. The finish will be pretty smooth especially if you use a woven cloth.

3. To fill holes etc I made a putty from the fibre-glass resin and talcum powder. I found some in my wife's cupboard. It made my workshop smell like an Avon lady, but it works well. Just mix in enough to make a workable consistency.

4. Use Hannu's website. Both for instruction and inspiration. The gallery page has a lot of pictures from other makers and it's full of good ideas.

Thanks again. And to anyone tempted to try one for themselves: Just Do It!
Jan 2, 2012. 7:09 PMcammers says:
Here are some pictures of my effort.
IMAG0262.jpgIMAG0268.jpgIMAG0273.jpgIMAG0294.jpgIMAG0286.jpg
Jul 7, 2011. 12:28 PMSIRJAMES09 says:
personally I LOVE BASS PRO SHOPS(BPS) & would never shop anywhere else for all the fishing I do.

as far as killing trees to decorate the store, most if not all the trees that I have seen there, are fake trees...the animals are also MOSTLY fake. Fake meaning the heads & such are man made no real animals are killed and/or used to decorate their stores.

I know this because I used to work for BPS in the Headquarters in Springfield MO.
I say used to because stage 4 cancer destroyed any chance I ever had at holding any kind of job ever again.
Sep 18, 2011. 7:52 PMjsadler1 says:
I pray for your recovery from such a horrid disease. If not recovery then perhaps some joy or other good will be at the end of that battle. So many have gone and yet we have failed to find an easy cure.
Sep 19, 2011. 8:25 AMSIRJAMES09 says:
TY Sir.
May Allah(swt) be with you always.
Sep 18, 2011. 12:19 PMgeenance says:
So what is your best estimate as to the cost to build these boats?

Is it worth it? They look great and fun!
Jul 29, 2011. 8:13 PMginchi1739 says:
I built two of these several years ago out of regular 1/4 inch ply. Actually I used two layers of plywood. The finished product wasn't a great deal harder to handle than a one ply boat, and I could get both boats in the back of the pickup (turned on their sides). They will also work well with a small trolling motor, or a regular motor up to about 5 HP. The boats lend themselves easily to modifications. I am in the process of building another that I hope will be stronger and speedier than the other two.
Jul 7, 2011. 12:40 PMSIRJAMES09 says:
This looks a wee bit small for fishing, but then again, I'm claustrophobic.

I like the boat! you explained it well, the pics helped tie together any loose ends, & the safety tips, I love it!!!

this is a good boat for toying around in the water, I think maybe you could even add a 3.5 HP outboard (I would NOT go any larger than that tho). This was an enjoyable read.

I think it would be very easy to build a bigger boat based on what you have done here....

You did good!! TY for sharing.

Oh Yeah, if I came across a wee bit harsh about BPS, I appologize. It's just that BPS is my "go to" Store for all my fishing gear.
Nov 23, 2010. 6:48 AMEasterro says:
Thank you for the Instructable - it really fills in some information gaps in Hannu's instructions.

I was curious, how much epoxy did this project take? I'm curious what volume I should purchase.
Nov 24, 2010. 5:15 PMEasterro says:
Thanks, that is a big help. I'm starting one this weekend with a buddy. I'll send pics when it's done. Thanks again!
Nov 19, 2010. 11:09 AMgrjackson says:
I've been meaning to get back on here for some time to thank you for your contribution.

I wasn't terribly confident in following through with this project so I went CHEAP CHEAP! lowest grade plywood and scrap lumber for everything else...

Once I had put the first boat together I was impressed - so I went whole hog with the quality of paint and adhesives I used - three seasons later it's still a sound water tight little rig.

I'd recommend this instructible as a first time boat building venture to anyone!

Thanks again.
Nov 24, 2010. 5:20 PMgrjackson says:
well this give you an idea of it's capacity - it wasn't a pleasure cruise - but it got us out to the sailboat - three adults and a bit of gear...
DSC08489.JPG
Sep 16, 2010. 11:20 AMstormy0314 says:
The correct term for the front of the boat is the bow and the correct name for the "bow stick" is the stem. The back end is the stern and that back panel is called the transom. 12 years with the Navy and 40 years in and around the merchant marine plus having a hobby building boats and I never once heard the term prow used except with Viking ships of old. Prow is a lubbers term for bow though.
Sep 16, 2010. 11:21 AMstormy0314 says:
Forgot to say I did enjoy this "ible".
Aug 10, 2010. 8:28 PMClayton H. says:
I want to build this boat as a end of summer project, but I'm confused on how to read the diagrams on the other website. How are you suposed to read it? (like the height of the sides of the boat)
Aug 18, 2010. 4:07 PMClayton H. says:
Thanks, I started building the boat around 12:00 and finished the outside fiberglassing about an hour ago. going to try to do the inside and gunwales before dark.
Mar 19, 2010. 1:07 AMsaastamo says:
I would prefer talcum as a filler in epoxy. It is more inert than flour or sawdust.
Mar 5, 2010. 3:44 PMzoltzerino says:
 I HAVE THE SAME "CROCS" AS YOUR WIFE!!!!!! </capslock>
Nov 26, 2009. 8:54 AMRunnerdude says:
Is it possible to sail with a right-triangle sail that has only a mast and sheet, no booms or sprits or anything?
Jan 5, 2010. 4:35 AMTreeFrog says:
Technically yes, but...

1) It will be really difficult to get the boat to behave in very light winds. There is nothing to hold the sail in the position you want, and you may well get tangled sheets, flogged by the mainsheet etc.

2) you'll probably find that the boat won't point very high into the wind (though a lack of centreboard will be far more of a problem at this point)

3) you don't really want the sail to be a flat triangle, you want the sail to be a curved shape (think of an aeroplane wing cross section). This isn't that hard to do, and you can experiment with plastic sheeting and gaffa tape.

So the answer is a cautious 'well you could..'  Honestly though for the price of a bit of old banister or equivalent and a few extra bits of rope, I'd probably stick with a boom. The extra effort making it would easily pay off in terms of faffing/ cursing time later.
Aug 23, 2009. 1:55 PMkiffakitty says:
does soaking the wood damage the inside?
Jul 31, 2009. 3:56 PMfakedead50 says:
What Do U Do About The Cracks On the Side Of The Boat
Jul 9, 2009. 12:56 PMrbodell says:
Like he said, wear long pants and shirt sleeves. tape the sleeves and pants legs around your ankles and wrists. Put a towel over your head and around your neck and tape it too. Any exposed skin cover with Vaseline. If you mess up and leave skin exposed, it will itch like you never itched before. rinse the area with alcohol first them cold water. NEVER HOT WATER. it opens the poors in your skin and the glass gets into them and it itches for days. Be especially careful about breathing the dust.
Jun 21, 2009. 9:55 PMthemonorail says:
will the boat work if i don't sand the fiberglass down? i really don't have the finances for a mask and all that business.
Jun 23, 2009. 8:25 PMthemonorail says:
great thanks. now about how much weight will this hold?
Jan 24, 2009. 10:17 PMstumppuller71 says:
I like the smell of fiberglass....ha....hahaha.....haaaaaa...dizzy.......im high.......hahahahaaaaaaaa. Use a ventilated room or be outside when using that stuff or burn some brain cells....hmmmmm
May 30, 2009. 12:20 PMthepelton says:
Eight miles high...
Jul 11, 2006. 7:48 PMTheThompsonFive says:
This is the one part I don't get. If you lap one side over the other, that side will be 1/4" shorter at the transom. How do you deal with it at the other end? Would it not be better to miter the edges?
Apr 21, 2009. 2:58 AMDonskov says:
They are not supposed to be over lapped but meet at the corners and form very close to a right angle. Since that bow stick (I'll call it that because I don't know the correct nomenclature) stays in the finished boat, you fill the gap between the two sheets with thickened epoxy. In his case he used thickened fiberglass resin.
May 30, 2009. 12:19 PMthepelton says:
I do beleive the front end of the boat is the prow. I was in the USN.
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Author:rook999
I like to make stuff. Mostly I work and work on our fixxer-upper house. When I can, I do more exciting projects.