Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 4Bend That Boat!
This is the most difficult step.
Mark the locations on the sides of the boat where you will be screwing in the ribs. The first rib, E, will be 30" from the bow. The second, F, will be 56" from the bow. the third rib, G, will be 80" from the bow. (See Hannu's diagrams)
Mark the locations on both sides of the boat.
I screwed all of the ribs to one side of the boat. To get them started. Use long, strong screws. I think I used 2 1/2" wood or drywall screws.
*Note: At this point I want to note a tip that may help you in the long run. I did this on the second boat. Screw in more wood where the transom will end up. I.e., rip a 2X4 in half and attach it verticall to the back ends of both sides. This will end up giving you something to screw the transom to once you get to that point. Otherwise, I have no idea how one is supposed to screw the transom to the sides of the boat.
Now. Carefully bend the side in. Start some screws on the exterior of the boat, and as you tighten in the sides, screw in rib E. Repeat for ribs F and G. They get progressively more difficult to bend in.
After you get the last rib in place, you put the transom on the back and screw it in as well.
You'll note in my pictures that I ended up adding the blocks of wood to the end of the sides as I noted above in order to get something to screw the transom to.
Once you get that transom screwed in, the boat is pretty well stuck together.
I added in some pictures of where my hull started to crack and splinter along rib E. I figured I could sand it down and repair it with fiberglass. Again, soak your wood as I do in boat #2.
Mark the locations on the sides of the boat where you will be screwing in the ribs. The first rib, E, will be 30" from the bow. The second, F, will be 56" from the bow. the third rib, G, will be 80" from the bow. (See Hannu's diagrams)
Mark the locations on both sides of the boat.
I screwed all of the ribs to one side of the boat. To get them started. Use long, strong screws. I think I used 2 1/2" wood or drywall screws.
*Note: At this point I want to note a tip that may help you in the long run. I did this on the second boat. Screw in more wood where the transom will end up. I.e., rip a 2X4 in half and attach it verticall to the back ends of both sides. This will end up giving you something to screw the transom to once you get to that point. Otherwise, I have no idea how one is supposed to screw the transom to the sides of the boat.
Now. Carefully bend the side in. Start some screws on the exterior of the boat, and as you tighten in the sides, screw in rib E. Repeat for ribs F and G. They get progressively more difficult to bend in.
After you get the last rib in place, you put the transom on the back and screw it in as well.
You'll note in my pictures that I ended up adding the blocks of wood to the end of the sides as I noted above in order to get something to screw the transom to.
Once you get that transom screwed in, the boat is pretty well stuck together.
I added in some pictures of where my hull started to crack and splinter along rib E. I figured I could sand it down and repair it with fiberglass. Again, soak your wood as I do in boat #2.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
2
comments
|
Add Comment
|
Aug 28, 2007. 12:55 PMDrStoooopid
says:
shouldn't you wet, or soak the wood before you try to bend it?
Reply
3
Sep 6, 2007. 6:09 PMDorkfish92
says:
My boats bending nicely, but i'm not soaking it because it seems to remove the primer coat on the wood and also make it bulge. I'm just spraying it with a steamer and using a heat gun right after.
Reply
6
Oct 23, 2008. 3:55 PMdciocoiu
says:
you should use water resistant paint. check Home depot or Home hardware they should have it.
Reply
1
Sep 4, 2007. 6:33 PM
rook999 (author)
says:
rook999 (author)
says:
Yes. I tried that with my second boat, and it did end up helping out. (Step 13, I think).
Reply
Jul 20, 2006. 12:29 PMandyroberts007
says:
I just finished this step on the boat I'm building. I used 5-ply 1/4" okoume marine plywood, and I cut the angles on the ends of the cross members. It worked out really well. Nice smooth contours. My son bent the wood to the shape and held it while I screwed it. Not hard. Note that cutting the angles on the ends makes the boat narrower. Only thing is that okoume set me back $69 per sheet - but worth it if the shape comes out well and there aren't huge stresses loaded up in the hull.
Reply
 |
Add Comment
|
