Quick and Easy Shelves for Shipping Container





Introduction: Quick and Easy Shelves for Shipping Container

Build your own shelving for a shipping container.
They are very strong and can be used as regular shelves or as stock racks.
You can even use them for workbenches if you put them at the right height.

The uprights are "unistrut" u-channel that hang from the container's upper tiedown rings.
The shelf support brackets are as simple as possible, just a flat plate or board with two holes in one end.
They bolt onto "springnuts" a.k.a. "diamond nuts" inserted in the unistrut.

Here's how to get the wood for your shelves very cheap.

In this photo Michael Kearney puts freshly linseeded boards up.

The brackets must be bolted firmly. When the wood dries and shrinks the bolts must be tightened again. Otherwise these shelves are a deadly time-bomb booby trap.

Step 1: Shelves of Death

A year later, I found out a potential danger of these shelves.

After about a year they tended to sag a little bit. The bolts gripping the brackets slipped a bit because the wood shrank. I didn't think much of it.
Then the end-grain wood failed and the brackets collapsed, dumping everything into the middle of the container. Damn. I'm glad I wasn't standing under that stuff.

So then I went around tightening the bolts on the remaining brackets. It would be good to add some kind of a cheek plate to the brackets so they couldn't fail in this way.

Check out this collection of other dumb mistakes I've made.

Step 2: Brackets

The brackets consist of a board with two holes in the end.
We bandsawed these from ash wood and drilled the holes with a drill press.
We rested the board on a piece of scrapwood to minimize the "exit wound" from drilling.

Moana applies linseed oil to the brackets.

Step 3: Bracket Version 2

This improved bracket has lip or hook at the end.
That's to keep the shelf boards from sliding off in an earthquake.
We waterjet cut a whole lot of these in different lengths.

Step 4: Uprights

The unistrut faces sideways to make the bracket design simple.
Michael shapes the top end with an air wheel.
The upright hangs from the container's upper tiedown ring by a u-bolt.
The u-bolt goes through the two holes revealed by the cutout Michael is making.
We scribed, centerpunched, and then drilled the holes on a drillpress.

Stuff tends to get stacked against container walls up to about waist height, so you can saw off the bottom half of your upright and not lose much use.

We used the square channel, but the flat channel would probably work too.

Step 5: Boards Boards Boards

Marc Lander sands cherry boards using a drum floorsander tied to a table.
Then we brushed them with linseed oil and set them in the shade. If you leave them in the sun it will set too quick and you'll get "orangepeel" on the surface.

Cherry is overkill, but I got a deal on a couple of bundles of "rustic" cherry. A customer had returned them for being too rustic (spits, knots, and rotted spots).
I ask the lumberman what he's tired of having. He's happy to forklift all his infested wood and returns on my truck's lumber rack and bottom my springs out for a couple of twenties. He's a good businessman and maximizes inventory turns. He wants me gone quickly cuz his partners slept through that class.

Step 6: Diamond Nuts A.k.a. Spring Nuts

These little beauties snap into the unistrut channel.
The ones with the plastic retaining wings are the easiest to use.
We ran out so we water-jetted a bunch and tapped (cut threads) them with a "two-flute gun tap" which is a type of tap that pushes the chips down into the hole. You can use it in a power drill without breaking it.

Then we put up the uprights, brackets, and shelves. At the back of the container we put boards all the way across the container and rested them on the side shelves. That made a deep shelf at the back for large objects.



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    Shelves are perfect at creating that additional storage you require around the house by maximizing space. I have always been building them regardless of the location – be it the kitchen, living room, or even the bathroom. However, the downside of this solution is that you would have to arrange your items neatly in order not to create a clutter.

    It's funny you post this..i've been thinking lately how much I want to make a shipping container home when i'm older. Where'd you get yours?

    ha you understand the calling then, Already own two 40' containers, fully sealed, dry with good boards on the floor, they hold our family's stuff at the minute but someday they weill be my house/workshop where I may build my more ambitious and dangerous contraptions, if I get the better job I'll be making enough to have money for what I suspect could be a real world first, rmember the JATO stories...

    Compass Container at the Port of Oakland. These are 24' Matsons, 9' high. Jim Mason at theshipyard.org has a couple to sell if you're near Berkeley CA.

    Well I currently live in Home of the Old People and Snowbirds (Florida)...but who knows where i'll be come house raising time!

    Do a search on 'Gypsy Wagon' to get some ideas. The Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) folks are reasonably expert in compact living. For more ideas you can search 'private railroad cars.' These people customize old private train cars in every way imaginable. If you live in the Florida Panhandle, you might look in the Mobile area. Or your closest shipping port.

    Well when I build a house, I plan for it to be full size - using maybe four containers. Big enough for a family =]

    The standard 45 foot size (there are other standard sizes) has an interior area of about 345 square feet without walls or insulation. If you put a minimal 4 inches of insulation and Sheetrock on the walls the area drops to 310 square feet. The problem with decorating one is the max width interior is 7 feet (with walls). Certainly a family could live in one, but there would be compromises versus what we are used to. Of course I have a friend who lives in a camper so a container would be a major upgrade for him. There are a lot of abandoned rail cars around the southwest. Transportation is the problem with them as the trucks deteriorate with time. They would probably have to be moved on a flatbed.

    We used one in a testing project back in the 80s and found it possible to punch holes in the aluminum skin if you were careless. It is much more sturdy than normal housing siding - just not impervious to puncture.

    Wikipedia on shipping container architecture

    What about insulating with straw-bales outside the container, then you don't lose interior space?