Hello everybody.
You probably like me, own a hand saw, but want a table saw, cause it's much stable and accurate then the hand held one.
Well this is my own try.
I tried to build a table saw, without spending allot of money, and I ended up with a pretty nice one, with a total coast of 1/5 of the original price of the cheapest table saw i found (the hand saw price not included).

I used Google sketch to draw a fast overview of what I had in my mind and it turned up very nice.

The idea is to make a table with a slot where I can use both a hand saw and a router. and still remove them and use them as hand held machines.

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Step 1: The Material/Tools Needed

The material you will need is some common material that I think every one should have.
You will need:

Hand Saw.
Old table that you was thinking to throw away. (check on the scrap yard or your neighborhood if they got one that they don't need).
Some wood.
Drill / screwdrivers
Nuts,(locknut work best as they resist the vibration from the saw)
Wing nuts.
Impact nuts.
Mounting Screws.
A ruler and a pen.
Threaded rod M10

Metal tube.
4 * 90 degrees brackets.

Terminal Block
Rotary switch
Aluminum L-shape to work as Fence, but you can use any type, even wood.
Grounded plug.
About 1m of grounded electrical cable.

This is what I need now, so I'll try to make it as soon as possible.
claudg19501 year ago
Speaking of on/off switches, when in Canada, I bought a commercial table which made possible turning a circular saw into a table saw (very much the way you did here).
I remember the setup included a safety feature: a long transverse bar, held by two short braces at the extremes of the working surface. In a hurry, the operator could hit the bar with the hand, hip (or even the belly). Near one of the legs of the table there was a toggle switch which the bar would operate when depressed, thus turning the saw off.(see sketch). Near the opposite end of the bar there was a simple spring to keep the bar high (at about 45 degrees) when not pushed.
Emergency stop.JPG
Correcting myself: the right name was "rocker switch" and in reality, the (here light blue) bar should look much larger than the switch (in my drawing proportions are not right) but I believe the idea was conveyed anyway)
mgrunwel2 years ago
Looks like your mounting plate is higher than the surrounding table. I would suggest adding some thin shims to the wood you mounted to the underside of the table in the previous step. In the 4 corners you should also add an impact nut and drive a bolt from the underside. You can then use the bolts to raise and level the mounting plate to the table surface.

Kickback is going to be a big concern with this set up. You should drive a couple of flush mount screws from above through the mounting plate to secure the saw to the table. That way if there is kickback you only need worry about the workpeice flying instead of a live saw!

I will be building something similar in the coming months with the intent of having interchangable mounting plates for a jig saw, belt sander, and/or possibly a planer once I work out a guard system.
You seem to be right in that the mounting plate is protruding. Your "shimming" solution, although very good, is not feasible because the underside slats are glued. Perhaps HC could sand down the underside of the mounting plate. The four height-regulation bolts in the corners are also a good idea.

What I don't see is the kickback concern. I had in the past and have now a similar setup in my shop, and the skillsaw never jumped up or out (not even when I experienced a kickback).
Additionally, when cutting most of (if not all) the time you will have a fence (a guide for the workpiece) clamped side to side on the table, bridging over the mounting plate and thus preventing it from moving.
H.C. (author)  mgrunwel2 years ago
You know what... your idea of fixing the table saw plate to the table is actually very very good... I really didn't think about that.. after all safety is the most important.

will do that and will post picture as soon as I'm done.

Thanks again... really appreciated your help.
did you update yet?
fepo011 year ago
Good...just need
apollo551 year ago
This looks good so far. I'm interested to see how you defeated the safety trigger switch.
manishrkp2 years ago
Pl. upload video.
shannonlove2 years ago
You probably want to make the bolt holes on the fence slightly outsized for the bolt so that you can micro adjust the fence relative to the blade. No matter how carefully you set it up, time, temperature and humidity will cause it to drift out of alignment and you will need to square it back up again.
todddiskin2 years ago
May be a silly question, but how do you turn it on? Do you rig the trigger so that it automatically comes on when you plug it in?
H.C. (author)  todddiskin2 years ago
Will rig the hand saw and build a On/Off system on the side of the table.
Will post picture and instruction very soon.
thanks for the replay!
Harvard822 years ago
Good start. You should think about adding a sled or fence to ensure straight cuts.
Nice work on the tool conversion.

I have a similar project in the works, and have been considering the best way to mount my saw. I am wondering with your system of having the sprung blade guard coming through the table surface, does it interfere with the material you are cutting? My concern is that it might push up lighter material (thin MDF for example) away from the work surface and become dangerous.

That shouldn't be to much to overcome. I had a guard that slid right over 1/2" but snagged paneling every time. I just wrapped wire around the little lever and tied the annoyance open.

... Ever come up with a solution during a fit of rage lol ?
H.C. (author)  RandomIdeaMan2 years ago
well the blade guard on my saw is the original one that came mounted on the hand saw.. and it slide very easy backward and forward without any effort at all.
I will try cutting thin materials tomorrow and I will post back my opinion as soon as I'm done testing.