Convert Hand Saw to Table Saw by H.C.
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Hello everybody.
You probably like me, own a hand saw, but want a table saw, cause it's much stable and accurate then the hand held one.
Well this is my own try.
I tried to build a table saw, without spending allot of money, and I ended up with a pretty nice one, with a total coast of 1/5 of the original price of the cheapest table saw i found (the hand saw price not included).

I used Google sketch to draw a fast overview of what I had in my mind and it turned up very nice.

The idea is to make a table with a slot where I can use both a hand saw and a router. and still remove them and use them as hand held machines.

CAUTION:
I'M NOT TO BE HOLD RESPONSIBLE OF ANY KIND OF PERSONAL INJURIES OR MATERIAL LOST AND DAMAGE CAN BE CAUSED BY MY INSTRUCTION.
USE THE TOOLS WITH CAUTION, BE AWARE WHEN WORKING/ MANIPULATING ELECTRICAL MACHINES/COMPONENTS.
USE ALWAYS PROTECTION TOOLS. AND PROPER TOOLS.
 
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Step 1: The Material/Tools Needed

The material you will need is some common material that I think every one should have.
You will need:

Hand Saw.
Old table that you was thinking to throw away. (check on the scrap yard or your neighborhood if they got one that they don't need).
Some wood.
Drill / screwdrivers
Jigsaw.
Bolts
Nuts,(locknut work best as they resist the vibration from the saw)
.
Wing nuts.
Impact nuts.
Some
Mounting Screws.
A ruler and a pen.
Threaded rod M10

Metal tube.
4 * 90 degrees brackets.

Terminal Block
Rotary switch
Aluminum L-shape to work as Fence, but you can use any type, even wood.
Grounded plug.
About 1m of grounded electrical cable.

wood doctor says: Apr 21, 2013. 6:28 PM
did you update yet?
fepo01 says: Apr 15, 2013. 12:12 PM
Good...just need
apollo55 says: Apr 5, 2013. 1:03 PM
This looks good so far. I'm interested to see how you defeated the safety trigger switch.
manishrkp says: Nov 27, 2012. 7:32 AM
Pl. upload video.
shannonlove says: Oct 28, 2012. 3:57 PM
You probably want to make the bolt holes on the fence slightly outsized for the bolt so that you can micro adjust the fence relative to the blade. No matter how carefully you set it up, time, temperature and humidity will cause it to drift out of alignment and you will need to square it back up again.
todddiskin says: Oct 25, 2012. 9:20 AM
May be a silly question, but how do you turn it on? Do you rig the trigger so that it automatically comes on when you plug it in?
H.C. (author) says: Oct 27, 2012. 2:33 AM
Will rig the hand saw and build a On/Off system on the side of the table.
Will post picture and instruction very soon.
thanks for the replay!
mgrunwel says: Oct 25, 2012. 9:49 AM
Looks like your mounting plate is higher than the surrounding table. I would suggest adding some thin shims to the wood you mounted to the underside of the table in the previous step. In the 4 corners you should also add an impact nut and drive a bolt from the underside. You can then use the bolts to raise and level the mounting plate to the table surface.

Kickback is going to be a big concern with this set up. You should drive a couple of flush mount screws from above through the mounting plate to secure the saw to the table. That way if there is kickback you only need worry about the workpeice flying instead of a live saw!

I will be building something similar in the coming months with the intent of having interchangable mounting plates for a jig saw, belt sander, and/or possibly a planer once I work out a guard system.
H.C. (author) says: Oct 27, 2012. 2:31 AM
You know what... your idea of fixing the table saw plate to the table is actually very very good... I really didn't think about that.. after all safety is the most important.

will do that and will post picture as soon as I'm done.

Thanks again... really appreciated your help.
Harvard82 says: Oct 25, 2012. 9:33 AM
Good start. You should think about adding a sled or fence to ensure straight cuts.
RandomIdeaMan says: Oct 22, 2012. 7:53 AM
Nice work on the tool conversion.

I have a similar project in the works, and have been considering the best way to mount my saw. I am wondering with your system of having the sprung blade guard coming through the table surface, does it interfere with the material you are cutting? My concern is that it might push up lighter material (thin MDF for example) away from the work surface and become dangerous.

DXN says: Oct 24, 2012. 7:54 PM
That shouldn't be to much to overcome. I had a guard that slid right over 1/2" but snagged paneling every time. I just wrapped wire around the little lever and tied the annoyance open.

... Ever come up with a solution during a fit of rage lol ?
H.C. (author) says: Oct 22, 2012. 11:33 AM
well the blade guard on my saw is the original one that came mounted on the hand saw.. and it slide very easy backward and forward without any effort at all.
I will try cutting thin materials tomorrow and I will post back my opinion as soon as I'm done testing.
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