Introduction: Convert a 300 Watt Torchiere Lamp Into a Dual 20 Watt CFL
The torchiere is a popular floor standing indirect lamp. Unfortunately, most use a high wattage Type 'T' lamp that is extremely hot in use. I have seen several warnings about these type lamps causing fires. And they are very inefficient. This will show how I converted my 300 Watt lamp to an energy efficient and cool 20 Watt CFL type bulb for less than $10 in parts.This modification results in a savings of 280 Watts. With the addition of the second 20 watt CFL, the savings comes down to only 260 Watts.
As these lamps may differ from the one I used, please use these instructions as a general guide and not an exact procedure.
This should not be attempted by anyone unfamiliar with the safety precautions required when working with high voltage.
After I finished this, I found almost the same thing already on the site By McSensei. However, as mine is slightly different, I will leave it.
I have added a second 20 Watt CFL at the suggestion of lemonie - Now with twice the light
As these lamps may differ from the one I used, please use these instructions as a general guide and not an exact procedure.
This should not be attempted by anyone unfamiliar with the safety precautions required when working with high voltage.
After I finished this, I found almost the same thing already on the site By McSensei. However, as mine is slightly different, I will leave it.
I have added a second 20 Watt CFL at the suggestion of lemonie - Now with twice the light
Step 1:
The torchiere is an indirect light, shining a powerful cone of light off of the ceiling and walls. It is also an extremely hot lamp, making the protective cage seen over the bulb necessary. At 300 Watts it is probably the biggest energy hog of any of my light fixtures. And as you can see, it gives off a fairly harsh light when viewed directly.
Step 2: Parts Needed
You will need a standard lamp socket to fit the CFL lamp. A short threaded nipple with a matching nut and lock washer, and of course a 20 Watt CFL light bulb.
Step 3: Bracket
And some kind of bracket to fasten the new lamp holder to. I used a 3 inch corner brace
Step 4: Dissasembly
First step is to UNPLUG the lamp. do not jut turn it off, unplug it.
Now look into the top of the lamp. It should look something like the picture, a cage covering the lamp assembly. Take everything out, the cage, the lamp socket, the metal plate. You may have to cut the wires to the lamp holder. Cut them as close to the holder as you can. You will need these wires later.
Now look into the top of the lamp. It should look something like the picture, a cage covering the lamp assembly. Take everything out, the cage, the lamp socket, the metal plate. You may have to cut the wires to the lamp holder. Cut them as close to the holder as you can. You will need these wires later.
Step 5: New Bracket
Now that we have the old parts out, we need a way to mount a standard screw type lamp holder. I used a 3 inch corner brace. They only came in a package of four, so I have 3 left over.
Step 6: Drill Holes to Mount Socket and Bracket
You will need to drill a pair of holes in the bracket, one to mount the bracket to the lamp. and one to attach the socket. I found a 3/8 hole to be a good fit for the threaded nipple that is used to mount the socket. and a 1/8 inch hole fit the screw I used to fasten the bracket to the lamp.
Step 7: Fasten Bracket to Lamp
I used one of the original screws to mount the new bracket. You will want to position it so the new cfl bulb is as close to the center of the fixture as you can.
Step 8: Attach and Wire Socket
Before attaching the socket to the bracket, It is a good idea to wire it up. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal, be sure to tighten them well and be sure that the bare wire is completely under the screw. Then, screw the threaded nipple onto the back of the socket, push it through the large hold in the bracket and place the lock washer and nut on the nipple.
Check to be sure that no bare wires are touching any part of the metal - pull them to be sure they are secure.
Check to be sure that no bare wires are touching any part of the metal - pull them to be sure they are secure.
Step 9: Finish
Screw in the cfl bulb.
Step 10: Test
Stand the lamp up, plug it in and turn on the switch. If you have done it right, you should get a soft white diffused lighting from your lamp.
It is not quite as bright as the original lamp, and it is more diffused. I use this as my reading lamp and the new light has been working fine. However, I did mount it a little high in the housing. I plan to go back in and drill a new hole in the bracket about an inch lower to move the bulb down where it can't be seen from across the room. I did not replace the cage as the cfl is a cool bulb and the purpose of the cage was to keep things away from the original hot 300 Watt 'T' bulb
It is not quite as bright as the original lamp, and it is more diffused. I use this as my reading lamp and the new light has been working fine. However, I did mount it a little high in the housing. I plan to go back in and drill a new hole in the bracket about an inch lower to move the bulb down where it can't be seen from across the room. I did not replace the cage as the cfl is a cool bulb and the purpose of the cage was to keep things away from the original hot 300 Watt 'T' bulb
Step 11: Doubling Down
At the suggestion of lemonie, I have added a second 20 Watt CFL to double the light output. This increases the cost by all of $2.87 for a second lamp socket. As the bracket was purchased as a set of 4, and the lamp thredded nipples and nuts came with exrtras there was no extra cost there. I also used about 12 inches of scrap wire and 2 small wire nuts from my junk box, again no increase in cost.
I also lowered the position of the lamp in the bowl by about an inch. And cut off about an inch of the brackets that were sticking up. Lowering the lamp involved drilling a new hole in the original bracket.
To make room, I turned the original bracket about 30 degrees.
I also lowered the position of the lamp in the bowl by about an inch. And cut off about an inch of the brackets that were sticking up. Lowering the lamp involved drilling a new hole in the original bracket.
To make room, I turned the original bracket about 30 degrees.
Step 12: Dual Bulbs
I used wire nuts and short pieces of scrap wire to hook up the dual sockets. Be sure to wire them in parallel and not series. If you don't know, you shouldn't be wiring up lamps.
Step 13: Final Result
Here it is turned on. The bulbs still stick up a little higher than I would like, but they are less than 1/8 inch from the bowl now. If I redo it again. I will move the brackets to bring the large part of the bulb closer to the middle for more clearance under the bulbs. Or I might put on a globe to hide the lamps better.


