Convert a 300 Watt Torchiere Lamp into a Dual 20 Watt CFL

Step 8 Attach and wire socket

Before attaching the socket to the bracket, It is a good idea to wire it up. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal, be sure to tighten them well and be sure that the bare wire is completely under the screw. Then, screw the threaded nipple onto the back of the socket, push it through the large hold in the bracket and place the lock washer and nut on the nipple.

Check to be sure that no bare wires are touching any part of the metal - pull them to be sure they are secure.

Comments

[wiml]

It's not immensely important, but you're usually supposed to wire the neutral wire to the threads and the hot wire to the contact in the base of the socket... it doesn't matter electrically, but it keeps the hot/dangerous contact farther away from possible fingers etc.

[bben46]

Unfortunately, these lamps are wired with a 2 prong plug. And I have seen several instances of older 2 prong wall outlets being wired backwards. So, even if you wired it 'right', you stand the chance of the hot being connected to the metal frame of the lamp. In that case, if someone touched the lamp and a grounded object, they stand the chance of being electrocuted. So, the manufacturers of the lamps isolate BOTH sides of the power from the chassis. It's always a good idea to check chassis to a ground, using a voltmeter, with the lamp plugged into the outlet it will be used on and powered up.

[SIRJAMES09]

you can always add a 3rd wire & ground it yourself with a 3 prong male plug too.

Again, just another thought, brain fart suggestion etc.

[static]

While many(most?) of the all American" 5 tube AM broadcast receivers, would have a hot chassis when plugged into an improperly wire recep circuit, I have yet to see a lamp holder that neutral connection connected to an exterior metal component. Not to say none exist, so it would be a good idea to inspect the lamp holder to be used visually and with an ohm/ continuity meter. I had a the same project in mind for a couple of garage sale lamps, I was given, but I doubt I would have remembered to document the process for an instructable. Good job with the instructable The good thing about this hack it allows one to use higher wattage lamps, if their need dictates them. I used to live in a mobile home that had no ceiling light, just a switch outlet. In that instance a higher wattage torchiere lamp was called for. A simple device is available to check to see if the receps are improperly wired at the home supply stores. One can do the job with a simple neon test lamp, but the plug in tester trouble shoots and ID any fault in the time it takes to plug it in and look at at. >$10 it's worth the money.

[Hammerhead46]

While you are out getting the tester get the one that tests for and also for proper operation of GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) circuit breakers or outlets >$15.00 at most stores. Also here is another trick I learned plug in a Iron or other item that draws at least 900 Watts while checking, it will show up a weak hot or neutral leg. Also with the new ARI (Arc Fault Interrupter) Circuit breakers that are required in Sleeping areas by the electrical code there may be a tester for those, and if anyone has seen these please post where and the brand name please and price if you know.

[Pazzerz]

I have yet to see any lamp that has any wiring attached electrically to the lamp frame. It wouldn't be allow to be sold. On another note, and its just my preference, I can't stand the light from those bulbs. They are irritatingly white, almost bluish white. If someone could come up with a shroud to 'color' the light to make them more like incandescent bulbs, I may start to buy them, otherwise they aren't worth the irritation to me. Good instructable. Those nasty halogens are a pain because they burn so hot and you have to be so careful how you handle them when you install them.

[denniep]

Good news on the irritating light color! There are plenty of bulbs available now which are not the bright, bluish white light. Most bulbs in this area (Austin TX) are NOT that anymore. Those are labelled "natural daylight" which I thought I would prefer. But all others not labelled that are the warmer color, although somewhat dimmer. These bulbs have come a long way in the last couple of years. I am encouraging everyone in my world to switch after realizing that lighting was 2/3 of my electric bill (and I have great natural light and rely on it as much as possible). My recent conversion is saving me at least $20/month, even as a minimal user. The sub-CFL's are readily available in packs of 5 or 6 (?) for around $10, which I considered reasonable. Basically, my investment will pay for itself in 2 months, accounting for needing to buy various sizes and opting for the better price of the packs. My research was done mostly on the City of Austin Energy website which I linked. The color of the light is discussed there as well. The packaging of the bulbs still leaves much to be desired however, so the online research made a big difference for me.

[Pazzerz]

Packaging.... Thats a whole new can of worms.... I had bought a pack of 3 and of course it was a welded plastic package. Even with scissors cutting around the edge I ended up with 1 good bulb. I'm putting out a reward for the one who brings me the the head of the jerk who came up with this packaging idea. Off with their heads! =P

[wiml]

Whups, by "threads" I mean the threads in the socket (not the lamp chassis). (I was responding to your note in step 8 that it doesn't matter which way you wire the socket.) Good point about older 2-prong outlets and unpolarized plugs though.

[SIRJAMES09]

just a thought, suggestion or brain fart...


But what I do to keep all the wires where they belong, is I put a wee bit of flux & solder on just the end of the wires. not a lot, just enough to hold all the teeny tiny strands of wire together, then after it cools enough to handle, THEN I wrap it around the screw. For me, it makes for a nicer looking contact AND a safer one.

Again, just a thought