After 7 years of loyal service, our bicycle trailer was of no use anymore because our children cycle by themselves. However, as our type of cycling trips shifted to longer distances (multiple days), we required a luggage trailer instead.
Instead of investing in a cargo trailer or building one, I decided to convert the old one.
This instructable will show you how to convert a Burley Child's trailer (d'Lite) into a Cargo trailer, with a mininmum of new components and no welding.
The picture below shows the modified trailer on our 4-day trip along the Canal du Midi in Southern France. Because we were pretty sure the weather would be nice, an ordinary rucksack did the trick, but there are many water proof bags available.
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Signing UpStep 1: Stripping the trailer
Although it doesn't look like this in the picture, the fabric of the trailer is severely worn after 7 years. We have used the trailer on many holidays, but for commuting and transporting our groceries as well. However, the frame is still in excellent shape.
The trailer is constructed with a minimum of welds, so disassembling is quite easy. Basically it is a flat frame with wheels in it with a hinged cover mounted on top. To convert the trailer to a cargo trailer you need to:
1 Reduce its height as luggage does not need to be stowed as high. This can be done by cutting the top frame at the right place (step 2 of this I'ble)
2 Reduce the wheel basis (width) to have a more agile trailer. This can be done by cutting the base frame in the front and rear end and installing a bolted peg (step 3 of this I'ble).
Disassembling is quite easy: remove the fabric first (by cutting the stiches). Now the construction becomes very clear.
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Should you have any questions during your project, don't hesitate to drop me a line.
Wasn't the plywood more expensive than the duct tape at the end?
Just a stupid question: are you turning it counter-clockwise? (just checking)
(help me remember though!)
You don't want to convert just to reduce the weight, because the trailers do not weigh very much (compared to the load) and unless you're climbing hills, weight is not an issue (wind drag is). Anyway, I haven't measured the weight difference...
My model did not have a plastic base, but I have seen the ones you mention. I suspect that part of the strength of the trailer comes form the plate, so trimming or removing it is very tricky. Unless you master glass fibre, epoxy and vacuum bagging techniques.
You could consider just removing the fabric and just reduce the height as I did. I recall that the models with a plastic base plate are not as wide as the one I had anyway.
The tubes are made of Aluminium and drilling is no problem if you follow the following steps:
1. take an iron file and flatten the tube a little bit where you want to drill (just enough to get a flat surface).
2. Take a hammer and a nail and "tag" the aluminium with it. This will give a good starting point for your drill to "bite".
3. Drill trough...
I have cut the aluminium sheet with something that looks like a pair of scissors, but is as robust as a pair of pliers. It is specially designed to cut metal sheet (I don't know the English name).
Let me know if you have more question.
Did you find that the aluminum sheet added enough stability such that you no longer needed the bottom crossbar?
The only thing I have experinced is that you require a few additional zip locks (some of mine snapped when riding over very rough terrain and the luggage "smacked" on the base plate).
I'm having trouble figuring out what thickness of alu sheet to use so it will be stiff enough but not too heavy (or expensive). Do you remember what thickness you used and would you go thicker or thinner if you have to do it again?
However, if you have large weights with a small footprint is is better to install some kind of beams underneath.
Wood is a very strong and cheap alternative, but not as good looking. That's the reason I chose Alu.
Hope this helps. Good Luck and post some pictures when you're done.
However, the hitch is connected to the trailer rod by an elstomer (a cilindrical piece of rubber) that allows the trailer to move vertically when you hit a bump.
The bicycle wheel in the picture has a diameter of 26,4", the diameter of the trailer wheel is 16,4" (sorry for the odd measures but converting bicycle tyre specifications is a pain). With these wheels, the connecting rod (between the hitch and the trailer) is horizontal.
If you increase the trailer wheel size, the elastomer will allow the trailer to tilt. Is this bad? Depends.
Say you replace the trailer wheels by the same size as the bicycle, then the axis of the trialer wheels raise 4,9" ((26,4-16,4)/2).
The rod is 37'' long, so a simple calculation: arctan(4,9/37) = 7,5 degrees. This is the angle that the trailer will tilt. Whether this is bad, it's up to you.
This was determined by the fact that I wanted to be able to fold the trailer in the new situation as well (see step 1, second picture. The side panels can fold.).