Step 4: Done!

Now you have a remote controllable switch for lighting up LEDs, just plug it into your receiver. You will need to set up a switch and the process for doing this is different for every transmitter, follow your manual and figure it out. Also, you don't need to use a switch, you can use one of the sticks or you can do a mixing. One of the main reasons I thought up this design is so that I could mix it into the trainer switch. Then when I had control the craft would light up one color, then when I pressed the trainer button it will change the lights over and the trainee would know instantly when they had been given control. Give it a try and let me know what you think. 


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Showing it on auto (sweeping) with the servo to show what the commands going to the circuit look like.

This shows it plugged into a receiver and I am switching it on and off with the transmitter. 


<p>used this trick to operate a relay that controls DIY positioning lights made from 12V LED strips that i had laying around. the servo switch gets power from the receiver and the relay is positioned between the balance connector (I use a 2S Lipo and a step up converter to get 12V) and the LEDs. sorry for bad image quality.</p>
<p>That was my initial idea with this, but I only had a 5v electro mechanical relay, and the spring was strong enough that even with the high speed pwm pulse that would drive the motor on the servo, the relay would click open and closed every time the motor power pulsed on and off. Did you use a solid state relay or some additional circuitry to hold energy in the coil to hold it open even when the motor driver power was off in the servo?</p>
<p>excuse my late answer. I did not use any additional circuitry, I guess the spring in the relay I used was weaker than yours... got it cheap from here (https://de.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-5pcs-lot-1-Channel-Isolated-5V-Relay-Module-Coupling-For-Arduino-PIC-AVR-DSP/32246609435.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.isYlfK)</p>
<p>ingenius! Thank you Ben the Builder</p>
<p>If you add a gyro to the circuit after the servo driver and before the servo amp it will sense rotational motion</p>
<p>Just curious how you ended up wiring your final project. How many total leds did you run? Wired in series or parallel? I am kicking around the idea of doing something similar on the 6v system on my 1/5 scale truck. I would like to run 12 5mm red leds in the rear and Y this into the throttle/brake servo to end up with functioning brake lights. I haven't actually purchased any leds yet, just tinkered around with some leds I have from previous projects, so I still need to figure up what specs I need on the leds. I would love to avoid having to run any resistors, which I am assuming with a 6v supply running 12 leds, I will have to wire in parallel and use at least one resistor. Will this end up draining my pack a lot sooner? (6v 4800mah)</p><p> I know I really need to start prototyping, but any advice you can give to start me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>In the demo I did 9 total, it's 5 in parallel one way and 4 in parallel the other way. You will have to use resistors, try an LED resistor calculator, they're all over the web. I might also suggest that you try using a small brushed ESC (3-10amps) but the downside is running it with a Y you will have trouble getting everything to line up. You could very likely run 12 standard 5mm LEDs off of the H-Bridge from one servo and then by turning the potentiometer you adjust the point where the lights come on. As far as draining your pack, you won't even be able to tell with one that big, 12LEDs only draw a couple hundred miliamps so if all you had connected was the LEDs it would take 24 hours of full on to drain your pack</p>

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More by Ben The Builder:Custom Built Micro Hexacopter Frame How to Properly Cut, Drill and Bend Plexiglas to make a multi-use gopro tripod. Convert a Servo to switch on and off LED's 
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