In this Instructable, I will show you how to convert a computer power supply into a regular DC power supply with 12, 5 and 3.3 volt outputs. For about $10!
Why use a computer (ATX) power supply? Well, they're available everywhere, and they can output tremendous amounts of power in a small form factor. They have overload protection built right in, and even a 500W model can be reasonably priced with high efficiency. The voltage rails are incredibly stable. Giving nice, clean DC current even at high loads.
Plus, it's likely that many of you simply have an extra one lying around doing nothing. Might as well get the most value for your investment.
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Signing UpStep 1: Getting Started
Here are the tools/parts needed:
Drill
Needle-nose pliers
Soldering iron
3 x "Banana Jack" Insulated Binding Post sets
1 x bag of "#6" Ring Tongue Terminals (16-14 gauge)
Rubber feet
Small bit of heat shrink.
Screwdriver
Wire strippers
Ok, let's get to voiding some warranties!










































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What do I do with them?
Any help would be great.
Thanks,
E
Thanks
The unit charges Lead Acid batteries with ease. Batteries do present a fairly passive load on the PSU and I'm not sure how switch mode PSU's would respond to inductive loads especially fluctuating ones; I wonder about the effects of back EMF.
It's possible to add more power supplies in series to get 24V, and all the mixes possible that a second, third, etc supply will allow.
For example, 3V correctly modified (as discussed briefly below) would produce a 15V line. Care is needed - of course - in the assembly.
You must isolate any additional supplies (I've cut the GND pin at plug, so only power cable need modification.) This is termed 'floating' ground.
Parallel arrangements would not need this modification to any of the voltages on the based standard. Some in parallel and some in series are still possible at once with the understanding that ANY supply added to the base voltages will (or will not) need GND modification based on there individual function.
If they explode when power applied - you haven't done it correctly,lol. So understanding and care is needed.
I am tempted to consider the function and safety of putting the floating grounds attached to a 'base' voltage, with the realization that it may greatly reduce the possible amperage in those lines - as the floating supply grounds (if connected) may draw power from it's use. I also wonder what would happen if floating supply is GNDed to .. say the base 3V line. And then used in series in other lines would start at 3V. Don't know and would be interested in learning this. I would guess that all would be fine as long as loads are below the lowest max amp rating on a voltage.
One note already discussed is that older supplies must have a small load on 5V section before power up is possible. A simple resister between 5V to it's PS's GND (isolated or not) is needed in that case.. look to comments here for more info - if desired.
"May the (electric) Force be with you",
Steve
PS. Any 'floating' supply should be physically isolated, for safety of people and pets, and to prevent accidentally grounding. Watch for fire, as I've seen in my travels, a power supply melt isolation if incorrectly connected. (before floppy cable connecters were keyed, reversal will connect 5V to GND and supply will contently deliver at least the rated amperage for that voltage) .. poor cables, but eye opening, as most natural disasters are.
PPS. Great and useful Instructable!
right now i had a10 ohm 10 watt resistor
Mine seems to have a brown "Sense" wire which I connected to 3.3v (orange) wires, but that didn't do anything.
I also tried connecting the brown wire to the black and green wires but that didn't do anything.
Also, BE VERY CAREFUL!! I GOT SHOCKED DOING THIS! MAKE SURE YOUR CAPACITORS ARE NOT CHARGED WHILE HANDLING!
I GOT SHOCKED PRETTY BAD LOL
a side question, the heatsinks inside the PS aren't supposed to have any voltages in them right? but when mine is plugged in my voltmeter reads 157v between the two heat sinks? WTF?
1. Brown 3.3 Volts
2. Brown 3 VRS
3. Black Ground
4. Red 5 Volts
5. Black Ground
6. Red 5 Volts
7. Gray Aux Ground
8. Purple Fan Off
9. Green 5VA
10. Orange 12 Volts
11. Brown 3.3 Volts
12. Blue -12 Volts
13. Black Ground
14. White OS
15. Black Ground
16. Black Ground
17. Black Ground
18. Yellow -5 Volts
19. Red 5 Volts
20. Red 5 Volts
When I power it the fan doesnt runand the only pin with voltage is 5vA.
Can somebody explain exactly how to get it to work, please. Thanks.
I have an AT power supply, it was creating 11.43v from the yellow 12v wire. I wired a 12v globe to one of the black wires and one of the red (5v) wires. I put the multimeter on the 12v and ground wire while the globe was on. it read -12.21 I was wondering why it said negative? and also my lipo charger can handle 12v-17v, would it be ok if I put another globe on the 5v rail? or is one enough already?
cheers
Can Anybody Please
help me to Idfentified the pin out of my ATX COMPAQ
model PS 5201 4T2.
I like to make power supply also. from that Model.
The position of the green or Power ON is not in Position 14.
Please help me to solve this.
and do I need sense wire also. to be able to run it.
I have 20 pins out.
GOD BLESS.
Thanks
Thanks for this great info. I just converted my first ATX 600w PSU model ULT-VX600 yesterday. It is working good thus far, and is so much quieter then the marine battery charger that I was previously running. I use it to power a Hyperion LiPo battery charger for my RC hobbie. My charger is capable of accepting 12-28 volts on the DC input side. I did some test charging pulling 25 amps from the PSU and am noticing the output voltage of the PSU drop to close to 11 volts and as a result my charger stops charging one leg. I have 10g wire soldered to the power bus on the inside to provide power to my charger. It shouldn't be a voltage drop issue.
Is there a way to tweak it to make it put out over 12 volts?
I was also considering wiring two ATX's in series to get 24 volts, but the problem would be that they share case ground with - DC. If I put the + from one the ATX to the - of the other it would short out since they are using a common AC source for power. The -12v line is only rated at less then one amp, so that is worthless to me.
Any suggestions?
My problem is that I can't run a zvs driver (pulls around 5A at 24V), a plasma speaker either.
It just simply turns off.
What could be the problem? :S
In short, check what specific ratings are on the stickers on the PSU and search the internet for the data sheet if you can find it. If you cant, i would say thats your problem and you can really only fix it by getting a new PSU that has a 25V 5A rating on it
Actually I want to make a test bench and I want to do series of experiments relating to my project, for which I cannot wait to charge the Lipo again and again
Any guidance in this will be much appreciated
Regards
1mm^2 10A
1.5mm^2 16A
2,5mm^2 25A
4mm^2 32A
6mm^2 40A
My PSU is rated:
-12V 0,8A
-5V 0,5A
+3.3V 26A
+5V 35A
+12V 15A
I'm not thinking of using the negative voltages. The wires are AWG16 = 1.310mm^2. Because I don't think I will go to the max, 2 wires will give me enough room to pull 25A per channel(NOT simultaneously!).
So using two wires will give you 200% current without melting your wires and it will save you some room and time grouping ALL the wires.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17753__Turnigy_Mega_200Wx2_Battery_charger_discharger_400w_.html
i will be charging at 10 amps x 2
i have a 600w psu, will it handle wot i need?
thanx, wuld apriciate it if some one culd email me direct, i dont get mutch time to get on line at the mo
rickyc83@gmail.com
When I look for supplies to convert, I'll actually scrap supplies that don't have the -5V live, for parts.. those with everything, get converted.