In my small business I needed to weigh medium to large items and boxes on a floor scale for shipping. Rather than pay way too much for an industrial model, I used a digital bathroom scale. I found it to be close enough for the rough accuracy I required when over 15lbs (7kg), as well it measures up to 330lbs (150kg). Way more than I can lift.
I was frustrated because the display was always hidden under the item I weighed. Sure the result locked in but only if you got lucky, blindly timing it right and quickly moving the box after.
I can also see a potential of this for persons with some physical challenges. Think about the hard of seeing reading at their feet, bad backs or spines making it difficult to bend to read the display, pregnant women who can no longer see the floor beneath them (Quit laughing before some big mama come slap you!), etc. I am just saying it could be medically difficult for some to see well to the floor level. It would be much easier for them to have the display at about face high?
So I wondered about why the display has to be stuck inside the bathroom scale and thus on the floor or under the item being weighed? I then realized that it does not when you see the inner workings of my electronic bathroom scale.
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I started with a very basic digital bathroom scale that I bought from my favorite Thrift Shop cheap. (I did not want to risk my own on my first convert.)
The scale I chose to do just happens to be made by EKS, it has a Silver color ABS platform over black metal base, LCD display, Capacity max 150kg (330lbs) and d = 0.1kg (0.2lbs), Auto shut off, Tap start, 9vdc battery.
Solder, Iron etc
Drill with small bit (3/32 inch)
Piece of 4-wire cable (telephone wire is perfect, look any Junk Store for <$1.)
Spring Hook
and of course duct tape, naturally! (What is a project without it?) In this project we do not use it but it is so handy you will want some anyway.













































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so I am starting hacking the scale and here is what I got.
http://bit.ly/6ZELWs
I think it would work right?
I'm pretty sure it will. Remember to be careful on dismanteling. You need to know where every part goes if it all comes apart. Good Luck.
Remember to take apart slowly and notice how it needs to got back together. Mine came apart upside down with loose hangers and would only go together one way. You can not introduce any rubbing points or it will read light.
I personally wouldn't spend this much for a scale as used ones can be found for $3-5. But that is just me being cheap again.
Good luck.
1/ Weigh yourself on the scale
2/ Weigh yourself holding the package
3/ Subtract (Combined weight - your weight = package weight)
(repeat to confirm)
This ensures that the package is being weighed in the "accurate" end of the scale (most scales don't do well at the low end where many of the package weights are concentrated).
Also, another good use: weighing someone who's disabled. I often want to weigh my wife, but can't because I'd have to hold her, then I can't see the scale. With this, I could weigh myself first, then weigh myself holding her, and the difference = her weight. Now I just have to find a scale that goes above 300 lbs so our combined weight doesn't overwhelm the thing (I'll be honest... it's my fault :) ).
Thanks!
Penny (1990 [D]) = 2.5086g
Nickel (1999 [D]) = 4.9947g
Dime (1992 [D]) = 2.2634g
Quarter (1995 [D]) = 5.7065g
All values from the US Mint. Tolerances should be less than 0.01% for each unit (coin) "D" represents the Delaware mint. Can be found on the lower RH area near the bust portrait on the "heads" side of the coin. It's very small, but visible to the naked eye. "P" is the Philadelphia mint, and weights are not guaranteed to be equal.
Weights are given with a 0.1% tolerance of base numbers.....
+1 rating.