Step 3: Installing the Deck
I skipped the steps where I built the deck, but there are few things to be noted. Since this was my first deck, I chose to use 1"x2" pine since it was cheap and if I didn't like the results, I wouldn't worry too much about the cost. The boards are cut about two inches longer than the trailer frame to allow an inch of overhang on either end. The cross-members are also 1"x2" pine, but they are treated wood which I was scrap left over from another project.
Holding everything together are short wood screws countersunk into the cross bars. I did leave gaps between the boards to let water through (you can see them in the shadow in photo one), but keep in mind that it means the whole deck can shift out of square. This really isn't much of a problem since I placed the cross bars so they would butt up against the main frame (photos two and three). A close look at photo three reveals one little challenge: the rear of the frame is formed with two curves instead of square joints between different lengths of pipe. The edges of the cross bar were filed and sanded to fit snugly within the curves.
The first version of the deck was held on with zip ties, but this version is a bit more sophisticated. Four 90-degree angles were screwed into the cross bars, then persuaded over the main frame with a hammer (photos four through seven). This means it will take a screwdriver to take the deck off, but I don't anticipate doing that very often.
Holding everything together are short wood screws countersunk into the cross bars. I did leave gaps between the boards to let water through (you can see them in the shadow in photo one), but keep in mind that it means the whole deck can shift out of square. This really isn't much of a problem since I placed the cross bars so they would butt up against the main frame (photos two and three). A close look at photo three reveals one little challenge: the rear of the frame is formed with two curves instead of square joints between different lengths of pipe. The edges of the cross bar were filed and sanded to fit snugly within the curves.
The first version of the deck was held on with zip ties, but this version is a bit more sophisticated. Four 90-degree angles were screwed into the cross bars, then persuaded over the main frame with a hammer (photos four through seven). This means it will take a screwdriver to take the deck off, but I don't anticipate doing that very often.
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