I found several ways of doing it on the web but nothing that seemed permanent or cheap. They have kits to do this but I didn't feel like forking out 100+ bucks to do it. This project cost me about 25 bucks and thats because I wanted new parts. If you had the parts laying around you could get out of it cheaper.
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I run my generator outside on the driveway and know when it dies so I don't have a problem with the way I did this. Besides, with the wind blowing, I would never have a problem with gas build up. NEVER run the generator indoors with propane or any other type of fuel for that matter. Propane is heavier than air so it will collect on the floor or near the ground when it is allowed to escape out of the tank. Use this instructable at your own risk!!


















































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The only issue I would have is use of any kind of tape, putty or sealer on compression fittings. Compression fittings are supposed to be liquid- or gas-tight on their own; if they aren't, they need to be fixed or replaced.
An AC generator should have a fully functioning governor to maintain proper output frequency. This project describes an "open loop" system, i.e., no feedback whatsoever for maintaining engine speed under varying load and environmental changes. For all the work involved in this Instructable, it is no better than sticking a propane hose into an unmodified carburetor inlet.
The real problem I see is that all that has been worked on was the carb. Propane burns much dryer, and I have heard that propane engines need a modified lube system because they need more lube, otherwise they will wear out fast or even seize. Someone said once that they had a diesel tank on their propane power pickup because it injected a bit of diesel with the propane because the diesel helped lubricate or something. Said it used a very small amount of diesel and he only had to fill the diesel tank maybe once a year. That is just what I HEARD, it might be something to look into, it might be nothing at all.
So its not so much that the oil isn't doing it job, it is, but its in the bottom end, and the propane just wreaks havoc to the top end.
That is my experience with propane and engines that run on it. Apparently there is an injection system we could add to the engines so that they don't need so much attention, but the people at the top rather pay some guy an a55-load of money to implement his new safety system that really doesn't work! Haha!
How many hours lasts that propane container running? I tried to use natural gas, but I can't apply charge to generator.
Thanks for sharing..
As for safety shut off, Rimar2000 did a pretty neat trick with his conversion, and was cheap too..
he used a solenoid valve that was for a washing machine (i think??), just need to be sure it's a normally-closed type.
Oh wait, i thing he ended up with having to modify the solenoid to allow a higher flow, or something..
Did you compare which one runs cheaper: the propane or the gasoline?
Anyway, thanks for sharing.. If i knew it was this easy (and cheap) I would have done it when i lived in Borneo where they have power blackouts every day for three hours!!
Cheers!
-Power output is slightly reduced, so there is less stress.
-Effective octane is very high, so the engine never suffers from detonation related stress.
-There is no liquid gasoline to wash the lubricating oil from the cylinder walls, so ring and cylinder wear is minimal.
-Combustion is usually very complete, so there is little carbon left in the cylinder, which is lightly abrasive.
-The complete combustion means that there is very little acid etc in the blowby, so the oil tends not to break down or otherwise get nasty.
That way you have a setup that can be used for either, shut off the gas and run it on propane, or close the propane valve an run it on gas...
A MUCH better way of doing this is to find an open spot in the carburetor casting, intake casting, or maybe make a spacer 3/8-1/2" thick using the carb gasket as a pattern (could be out of anything, aluminum would be best, but lots of plastics will work, as will any decent wood (soak it in "aircraft dope" or model airplane stuff from SIG, thin epoxy or a dozen other things to seal it), then drill a hole in the side of it and tap it for an 1/8" NPT thread. Then take a brass hose nipple with a 1/8" NPT thread, solder, epoxy (JB weld...) or braze a short length of tube into the opening on the threaded end, and then crush the end so it acts to spray the propane into the throttle bore when threaded into the hole in the spacer. The crushed end will give it some velocity and turbulence so it mixes better and you shouldn't have to worry as much about throttling the airflow in, it should run well over a broader range of mixtures.
Hook up your regulator + needle valve to the hose barb with a length of hose making it convenient and go for it.
My generator I drilled and tapped a hole in the intake manifold; similar to the one you see in the video.Took the carb off first to make sure I got the chips out.
I used a piece of propane hose clamped to the fitting screwed into the intake manifold with a male quick connector ( i stick a rubber cap on it when not hooked up ) to hookup the generator to the propane regulator. I also use a electric cut off valve that uses 12v; ( I use the 12v port on the generator - stops no 12v ) - no 12v it closes and turns off the propane. I use an adjustable regulator at the propane tank.
If I am using the generator camping or work I run it on gas or propane depends where I am. My truck runs on propane so I have around 45 gallons when truck is full. I just screw the fitting onto the fill port of my truck using high pressure propane hose to a regulator and hook up to the generator..
Thanks in advance to whoever can help