Step 3: Making the Insulated Backing
Carefully glue a layer of skin-tone cotton fabric to the outside of the insulated material, then place it aside to dry.
Once you have the measurements of a frozen ice strip, you can begin measuring and cutting. This part can be a little tricky, and you should play around to see what will work best with your materials. The insulated material will form the back of an ice pouch to hold frozen ice strips (the absorbent fabric will be the front, and the whole thing will be lined in bias tape). You want the insulated material to cover the entire back of the frozen ice strip, but having too much will be a large strip of stiff material right on the back of the neck and can hinder head movement.
I have found that what works for me is to cut the insulated material slightly larger than a frozen ice strip, but not as large as a thawed one; the rest of the space of the pouch is made by cutting extra of the absorbent material, but you will need to hold the materials together around the ice pack strips to see hoe much you will need.
A note about the insulated material:
The more holes that are poked in this material, the weaker it becomes, and it may tear. For this reason, don't use pins on the insulated material. If machine-sewing in later steps, always use a zig-zag stitch and don't back-tack.