Step 6: Tuning the pipe

After cutting the pipe, use a pencil to mark the nodes, 22.4% in from each end (this need not be very precise--if you get it within a millimeter or two, that's fine).  Then measure the frequency, exactly like you did for the test pipe, again allowing the pipe to cool after the cut.  Since you cut too long, the frequency should be a bit too low.  (If not, measure your cut pipe.  If the measurement of the pipe is bigger than per calculation, you mis-measured something with the test pipe.  Re-do your calculation of A with your new pipe, and recalculate your pipe lengths.)

Make sure you set yourself a tolerance.  Since none of us in the family are very gifted musically, 0.5% or about 5 Hz was satisfactory for our purposes.  You might want to set yourself a more exactly tolerance like 2 Hz.  Also, if you can get all the pipes with errors on the same side, the errors should be less audible.

If after the cut you're within tolerance of the correct frequency, you're done after a very light sanding to remove jagged edges (very light, because you don't want to de-tune), and just repeat with other pipes.  If your frequency is too high, and not within tolerance, you've cut things too short.  Just re-cut this pipe for your next note (so, if you're making the C6 note, just re-use this pipe for D6, cutting it a bit shorter), and cut a new one for the present note.  (Of course, if this is your highest note, you've just wasted some copper pipe--maybe you can use it for another project.)

If the frequency is too low, you need to trim the pipe a bit.  I found a rotary tool with a sanding drum attachment to be the best way to do it.  You could also use a sanding block if you're patient, or a bench grinder if you're not.  Wear safety goggles and breathing protection.  

What you do is trim a tiny bit, check the frequency, if it's still too low and not within tolerance, keep on trimming.  But make sure to cool the pipe off before measurements.  If you over-trim beyond the tolerance, cut a new pipe, and use this for the next note.

I recommend writing in pencil on each pipe what its note is.  
<p>Actually, copper itself is toxic but you won't get enough free copper from exposure to the pipes like this. Eye protection is a good eye-dea because the particles in your eyes from sawing the pipe can hurt you. Breathing protection might be a bit much, but it doesn't hurt either.</p>
This guy obviously didn't play the instrument very much or he would have realised that the elastic bands start to melt onto the pipes. I think it must be from the friction as they vibrate. Fabric covered hair bobbins work much better and don't leave horrible sticky black marks all over the pipes
<p>Made it for my grade 11 physics project :D Kinda switched up the design a little but i think it turned out well!!</p>
<p><a href="http://home.fuse.net/engineering/Chimes.htm" rel="nofollow">http://home.fuse.net/engineering/Chimes.htm</a></p><p>i love the internet.</p>
HELP! About the equation to find the pipe measurement I need a certain frequency, but it is so unclear on how to find 'A', I really need help on how to find this! Do I multiply or divide something? PLEASE HELP.
<p>Step 4 gives details of how to calculate A from a frequency measurement for a test pipe.</p>
I think you could add on to this with accidental bars. (Black on Piano). Then you can play a much larger spectrum of music.
I've made a spreadsheet that should calculate your lengths automatically once you plug in your &quot;A&quot; variable, you can get it here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ib6iq7fnonpqdeg/glockenspiel%20worksheet.xlsx
Yes, that would make the tubing on which the rubber bands rest unnecessary. Good idea.
Nice instructable! For simplifying nails, consider double headed nails.
Actually, copper metal is harmless (sharp edges aside). It's copper compounds that are toxic, and you have to be pretty careless to ingest enough to harm yourself. Washing the swarf off your hands afterwards is a good idea, as with any metal.
Wonderful! More proof that you can make music with ANYTHING!
This works with steel pipe conduit, too. Only problem with that is that it is welded and the sound is slightly dulled. But if you want to prove the concept and the math, steel is much less expensive.
You could also get non-welded steel pipe or tube. I checked on onlinemetals.com, though, and their mild steel tubes seemed slightly more expensive than Lowes' copper pipes which are $1.18 per foot.
Does anybody know a good iPhone app to use for checking the peak frequency? Or good desktop apps?
Fantastic project!&nbsp;<em>Glockenspiel gefaellt mir!</em>
Thanks! I really like the color scheme the kids and I came up with.<br><br>For Christmas, one of the gifts for our six-year-old was the ingredients for several woodworking projects, and this was one of them. We've got a couple more projects to go!
NICE!!! now I have a new project to try with my metal/wood classes. very well done!
This looks absolutely fantastic. I particularly like how you made the connection with more than one subject's learning objective. More glockenspiel.

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