Step 1: Tools & Materials
* 5 ft. length of 3/4 inch copper tubing
* scrap piece of 1x10 planking
* approximately 6 ft of decorative chain
* a small piece of golden craft wire
* 5 small sized "I" screws
* 3 small brass hooks
* 1 heavy key ring
Tools - well, a scroll saw would have been fantastic for this (or even a table mounted band saw), but I had to make do with what my budget allowed (tools that I already possessed).
* skill saw
* jig saw
* copper tubing pipe cutter
* needle nose pliers
* cordless drill
Finishing supplies - this is what I used to finish the pieces with:
* 1" paint brush
* primer for wood stain
* wood stain
* clear coat polyurethane
* mineral spirits
* 00 steel wool
Step 2: Draw up a plan & prep the materials
First off, I needed to decide on the sizes of the chime tubes. Since I only had 5 ft of copper to work with, I decided to go with 16", 14", 12" 10" & "8" pieces. I measured and marked (with a sharpie) the lengths I need, then commenced to cutting them with the piper cutter.
Next was the wood work part. I have to admit - I cheated a bit here, as I used some of my old drafting tools to lay out the pentagon shape. I took an old "T"-square and a 45 degree and a 30/60 degree triangle to draw the shape out. I used a 4" scale for the initial measurements. For the circles, I can't remember what I traced around, but they were round containers of something or other. I'm almost sure that the clapper design was drawn from the bottom of a soup can....
Next, don ye old safety glasses, and let the wood cutting begin.
Step 3: The time consuming part
After cutting all the pieces (both metal & wood), they need to be cleaned up (sanded or be-burred), smoothed up a little, and have some fine tuning done.
With the copper tubes, I took some 00 steel mesh to the freshly cut areas and carefully smoothed the edges. After this, I took a rag with mineral spirits on it and ran it over the sections. More than a few times. This removes oil & paint / ink from the surface. Next, I ran the 00 steel wool over the sections - this polishes them up to give them that shine. Next was to carefully drill two holes in the top of the tubes - this is where the connecting chains will go later.
The wood - all I can say to sand, sand, sand. I suggested a sanding block with 100 grit sand paper to begin with (that is unless you used a scroll saw, then disregard). This is to knock the rough spots down. When you get the pieces shaped kinda like you want, then take 220 grit sand paper to them. I didn't want to get them real smooth, as I was wanting to go for a rustic kind of look.
I cheated a bit during the sanding part - I used my Dremel (with a sanding drum attachment) to help speed the process up. Once you have the wooden pieces as sanded as you want, clean them well with a dry cotton cloth - I used an old piece of terry cloth. This removes the majority of the dust. Next, in a well ventilated area, apply the pre-stain to the wooden parts (follow directions for the brand that you use).
After that soaks in, it's time to stain the wood - whichever color or flavor that you want. Since we'll be using polyurethane clear coat to seal the wooden pieces, now would be a good time to do a test run. Polyurethane can change the color of the stain, so this will help in determining the time factor in both coats. Have fun, but be aware that it is kinda messy, hence the need for some mineral spirits (for the clean up). After the stain achieves the color desired and has time to dry (again, follow brand directions), its time to coat them with clear polyurethane.
Step 4: Putting it all together
First, you'll need to space the eye bolts, all dependent upon the size of the chime's clapper - one for each tube, and one right in the center for the clapper chain. Once you've set the eye bolts (these'll be to hold the actual chime tubes), on the top side you'll need to secure the small hooks, these will attach the chain to the large key ring.
On the clapper, I drilled a small hole through the middle and used a short piece of the golden craft wire to attach the chain to the top and bottom. The upper chain, of course, attaches to the top, and the bottom chain (which should extend well below the longest tube) goes to the weight.
After the placement of the eye bolts and the small hooks, now we get to do a small amount of metal work. This will involve the needle nose pliers. At whichever lengths you prefer, we'll need to cut and bend some of the links in order to attach the chimes to the top, and from the top to the key ring, not to mention the clapper to the top and the down weight to the clapper (whew, that's almost a run-on sentence).
Now all you have to do is attach all these parts to the top, and you're ready to chime!