Step 3: The time consuming part
After cutting all the pieces (both metal & wood), they need to be cleaned up (sanded or be-burred), smoothed up a little, and have some fine tuning done.
With the copper tubes, I took some 00 steel mesh to the freshly cut areas and carefully smoothed the edges. After this, I took a rag with mineral spirits on it and ran it over the sections. More than a few times. This removes oil & paint / ink from the surface. Next, I ran the 00 steel wool over the sections - this polishes them up to give them that shine. Next was to carefully drill two holes in the top of the tubes - this is where the connecting chains will go later.
The wood - all I can say to sand, sand, sand. I suggested a sanding block with 100 grit sand paper to begin with (that is unless you used a scroll saw, then disregard). This is to knock the rough spots down. When you get the pieces shaped kinda like you want, then take 220 grit sand paper to them. I didn't want to get them real smooth, as I was wanting to go for a rustic kind of look.
I cheated a bit during the sanding part - I used my Dremel (with a sanding drum attachment) to help speed the process up. Once you have the wooden pieces as sanded as you want, clean them well with a dry cotton cloth - I used an old piece of terry cloth. This removes the majority of the dust. Next, in a well ventilated area, apply the pre-stain to the wooden parts (follow directions for the brand that you use).
After that soaks in, it's time to stain the wood - whichever color or flavor that you want. Since we'll be using polyurethane clear coat to seal the wooden pieces, now would be a good time to do a test run. Polyurethane can change the color of the stain, so this will help in determining the time factor in both coats. Have fun, but be aware that it is kinda messy, hence the need for some mineral spirits (for the clean up). After the stain achieves the color desired and has time to dry (again, follow brand directions), its time to coat them with clear polyurethane.