Copy Stand - Cheap and easy to build

Step 6 The top frame - overview

You can see from the photo that the top frame is "L" shaped with a pivoting arm attached to the shorter leg of the "L". The 3 lengths of ~1” aluminium angle extrusion should have a reasonable wall thickness 1/8” or greater. You could possibly substitute hardwood here but I have not tried it.
One piece of the L frame will be as long as the width as your board and the other piece will be as long as your board.
The pivot arm has to be long enough to support the base of your camera and also place the lens right above the middle of your board and stiil have some extra length for the adjustment screw and wing nut. The FZ20 has the mounting hole offset with respect to the lens axis and many cameras have similar idiosyncrasies. So measure and calculate carefully.
You can of course drill additional holes to allow you to use other cameras on the same stand. I eventually added another hole in the pivot arm to suit my FZ50. I had to move the wing nut to the other end of the pivot arm screw to give the FZ50 more clearance; keep that in mind when cutting your pivot arm, be generous.
THE NEXT 3 STEPS CONCERN THE PIVOT ARM READ THEM ALL BEFORE YOU START CUTTING