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This simple tutorial will help you reclaim your once battery-powered harbor freight tools by adding a DC power supply. The tutorial should apply to just about any cordless tool, just make note of the battery voltage / amperage on your tool. The main advantages to this method (as opposed to others on the site) are style/clean fitting, and parts availability.
While this tutorial isn't groundbreaking, it may give you the motivation you need to get your broken cordless tools back up and running.
Harbor Freight and I have a Loove hate relationship. Half of the stuff they sell is inexpensive and worthwhile, the other half is inexpensive and junky. If you shop there, you know what I'm talking about.
Some of the junkiest items they sell are the cordless power tools. 9 times out of 10, the batteries die quickly or were never good to begin with. Sometimes its the fault of the charger or AC adapter, sometimes it's the "rechargeable" batteries. In any case, they aren't worth picking up unless you're in the mood to gamble.
If you have by chance made the mistake of buying one (like i did) and can no longer use the battery for whatever reason- read Step one.
While this tutorial isn't groundbreaking, it may give you the motivation you need to get your broken cordless tools back up and running.
Harbor Freight and I have a Loove hate relationship. Half of the stuff they sell is inexpensive and worthwhile, the other half is inexpensive and junky. If you shop there, you know what I'm talking about.
Some of the junkiest items they sell are the cordless power tools. 9 times out of 10, the batteries die quickly or were never good to begin with. Sometimes its the fault of the charger or AC adapter, sometimes it's the "rechargeable" batteries. In any case, they aren't worth picking up unless you're in the mood to gamble.
If you have by chance made the mistake of buying one (like i did) and can no longer use the battery for whatever reason- read Step one.
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Get Yr supplies together.
You'll Need:
Components:
-Cordless 18-24v Power tool (I used a circular saw)
-2 short strands of wire (I forget what gauge I used but most should be fine)
-1/4th inch male and female audio jacks
-18-24v 2A Power Supply (I used a salvaged epson printer power supply rated 24v, 2A)
Tools:
-drill / bits
-hot glue
-screwdrivers (one philips, one flathead)
-solder / soldering iron
You'll Need:
Components:
-Cordless 18-24v Power tool (I used a circular saw)
-2 short strands of wire (I forget what gauge I used but most should be fine)
-1/4th inch male and female audio jacks
-18-24v 2A Power Supply (I used a salvaged epson printer power supply rated 24v, 2A)
Tools:
-drill / bits
-hot glue
-screwdrivers (one philips, one flathead)
-solder / soldering iron
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My main concern with the direct connection was the balance - have you considered filling the empty battery case with inert weight to make the tool still feel balanced?
Not all Epson power supplies are the same.
Find an adapter with just ONE voltage listed on the bottom sticker (18v or 19v or 20v or 21v or 22v or 23v or 24v and at least 2A)
post a pic if you get one and you're unsure
holds just fine. "minimal specs" for commercial version of the jack is 1lbs. of extraction force. can be as high as 7lbs.
just fyi, specced at .05 ohm resistance after weathering and ambient humidity.
here's the important part.
Contact rating is 1 A, 25 V DC
So, "the salvaged epson printer power supply rated 24v, 2A" is 100% OVER spec. now, if that was a 12 Volt 1A power supply/drill you'd be "safe".
Staying below that spec should also allow relatively safe "mistakes" since the audio equipment should be either fused, or just plain designed to handle that current without risk of frying you.